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Re: SAVE ON FUEL ?
I think it depends on the van, most modern common rail diesels are computer-controlled and get a bit upset if the fuel changes. The best for just mixing are pre-2001 indirect injection engines, but I don’t think many of us drive those. Also, non-Bosch injector pumps can break and be costly to repair.
Best people to ask are the blokes over at
http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/index.php
but I’m not sure I’d take the chance just mixing it on my van, bearing in mind a day without the van is a day I don’t get paid, and you can buy a lot of diesel with a days pay!
This is their take on it: –
Newbies–What you NEED TO KNOW about biofuels use in vehicles.
Firstly, Welcome to the sometimes weird world of Alternative Road and Engine fuels….Before we start, All HDi, CDi, TDCi TCDi etc etc. and nearly ALL POST 1999 YEAR COMMON-RAIL and UNIT INJECTOR type Vehicles WILL NOT RUN ON VEGETABLE OIL (SVO, WVO, PPO etc.)–Try and YOU WILL KILL IT
Please dont clutter this thread up with daft questions like will my Peugeot 207 HDi run on veggy–IT WONT!!–No matter What your mate down the pub said!
Be aware, It can cost literally three grand to sort out a stuffed up fuel-system and engine from fuel Mis-use…(And thats on a ‘cheapie’ make!)
BIODIESEL IS NOT VEGETABLE OIL–Both liquids are Totally Different…
Please Read the How-To Guides and the advice posts –ALL of them before posting in the ‘General-Discussion or BioDiesel discussion with specific questions on Your Vehicle.–All your questions have Probably been asked by others before…
OK, Thats the ‘WARNINGS’ over with, Now on with the important stuff….
There is a lot of mis-information around on the web, so this post is just a little general guide for those coming into this for the first time….
There are a lot of different names for fuel going round, such as SVO and Biofuel etc. This is all rather confusing to the newcomer, who may not have much info to go on, apart from some he may have found on the Web…
Here follows a list of various (Diesel orientated) fuels commonly referred to as ‘Biofuel’ –It should be noted, that NOT ALL ARE SUITABLE for All vehicles.
BioDiesel. = This is technically called Methyl Ester. It is Made From either Waste vegetable Oil or Fresh Veggy oil. It is Chemically and physically COMPLETELY DIFFERENT TO VEGETABLE OIL from which its made-THIS IS IMPORTANT!.
Often there is confusion over the name, ‘BioDiesel’– and a lot of people think that ‘BioDiesel’ is just ordinary Vegetable cooking- oil. Its NOT!
BioDiesel is made by a chemical process called ‘Transesterification’ involving Methanol, which is a poisonous type of Alcohol, and a Catalyst, usually Lye/ Caustic Soda or Potassium Hydroxide. –See the section on Making BioDiesel in this Forum for more details on how to make Biodiesel. Proper BioDiesel made by Transesterification is Generally Suitable for all vehicles even new ones, WITHOUT ANY MODIFICATIONS or alterations.
However, If the vehicle is under a Manufacturer’s warrantee, they may specify that only a certain {e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the fuel in the tank should be BioDiesel mixed with std. diesel
SVO = (Straight-Vegetable-Oil) This is the stuff you buy in a Supermarket, and called Vegetable oil, or Sunflower oil, Rape-Seed oil etc..
Its often used blended with either std. Diesel fuel or some other form of Solvent such as Petrol in small quanitites of around 5{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} petrol or RUG (Regular Unleaded gasoline) It is used in either a Twin-tank Conversion or in older, 1980’s and early 90’s Indirect Injection engined vehicles.This stuff even blended with whatever solvent thats been added is Still NOT BIODIESEL. This is NOT suitable for all vehicles. Generally any vehicle that is Post 1999 in the year of its Manufacture is NOT SUITABLE for Vegetable Oil or Blends of solvents and veggy oil as a fuel WITHOUT FIRST CONVERTING the engine and or fuel system Most Vehicles will need some form of modification to use SVO and or Blends anyway, but those made After 1999 are generally much more involved in the required work, due to the delicate and complicated nature of the engine and fuel system–See the section entitled, SVO and WVO as well as the section entitled, ‘Problems With Computerised Systems’–Nearly ALL Post 1999 vehicles are of the ‘Computerised’ type
Also worth remembering,- Any SVO or Vegetable-Oil Conversion Will Invalidate a Vehicle maker’s Warrantee, especially if after fitting, a fault should develop with the engine or fuel-system….
A stuffed up fuel-system caused by the incorrect conversion or mis-use of vegetable oil on a Post 1999 vehicle can literally cost thousands to sort out
WVO = This. is the Waste Vegetable Oil, After its been used to cook food with. Its often poured down the drain in less than good restaurants and other food places, which causes a headache for local authorities.
WVO can and is used as a ‘Motor-Fuel’ but will definately need some form of cleaning or filtration first as well as Drying of collected Moisture–Important!,
All the information concerning the use of SVO should also be noted above, and the vehicle in nearly all cases WILL NEED Some Form of MODIFICATION The extent and type of modification to use Vegetable-Oil depends on the Make, Model and Age of vehicle–See the section entitled SVO and WVO
Both SVO and WVO are called BioFuel and are NOT BIODIESEL
Again I Please say,– DO NOT ask whether your 2006 Jag or W.H.Y will run on Veggy and or Blends WITHOUT MODIFICATION, because the answer will not only be in the Negative, but Could be rather insulting!
Posts like these just clutter up the Forum. ALL ‘HDi, CDi TDCI and similar Post 1999 vehicles will be ‘Common-Rail’ or ‘Unit-Injector’ and Direct-Injection type engines that HAVE to be Converted, and converted Properly. There is NO way around this….
Instead, Use the search feature, and look up Your Vehicle and Engine type also read past posts in the relevent section. If you then havent found the answer, then by all means please ask your questions in the relevent sections.
Re: SAVE ON FUEL ?
Hi Martin,
The idea is that by heating the veg oil to 80C you make it as thin as normal diesel, so it doesn’t clog up the injectors or put extra strain on the injection pump.
The system has two tanks, so you start each day on diesel for the first couple of miles to get the engine and injector pump warmed up, run on veg all day (engine hold enough heat to go about 2 hours) then switch back to diesel just before the end of the day to flush out all the veg. You then have an engine full of diesel to start again next morning.
In the month I’ve been using it I’ve used just over 15 litres – so about £20 of diesel. Used to use £200 a week.
Re: SAVE ON FUEL ?
Just filter and dewater it, then throw it in the tank. Or if you don’t have room you can buy new veg from the cash and carry for 80p per litre currently (normally goes down in summer a bit as the crops come in).
You do have to pay duty over 2,500 litres but there’s no requirement to keep records, so as long as you’re around 2,500 litres I think there’s a bit of give and take. The reason for the limit is that it costs HMRC more money to collect small amounts of fuel duty than they get.
Re: SAVE ON FUEL ?
Okay, for those that asked, here is the manual I used. As discussed you can put the parts together for less than £150, or buy parts/kit from biotuning.co.uk
Any questions please let me know.
Re: SAVE ON FUEL ?
Yes manual is pretty general with diagrams of where you want the pipes to go. Basically the lines you need to identify are the coolant lines through the bulkhead for the cabin heater, to heat the oil, and the line between your fuel filter and injection pump.
I’ll scan it when I get back to the office this evening.
Re: SAVE ON FUEL ?
funkyboogy wrote:looks good chris ..
need to list what you need to get started – something ive been intrested in for a while ..
ally
Hi,I actually bought it as a kit because I needed something foolproof because different people drive the van. However, essentially all you really need is: –
– Flat plate or pipe-in-pipe heat exchanger.
– Two three-way solenoid valves or one six-way motorised valve for switching fuel and return.
– Lengths of fuel and coolant hose.
– Auxillary fuel tank.
– Switch for solenoids and digital thermometer to monitor fuel temperature.
– Inline fuel filter and fuel priming bulb for diesel.
– A few plastic connectors for pipes, and loads of jubilee clips to keep it all together.
– Loads of lagging and cable ties.Doing my Mum’s car this weekend and all the above comes to less than £150 if you buy it seperately. If anyone wants them I’ll post the instructions and diagrams that came with the kit I bought, but as I said, if you can fix a simple washing machine fault you can fit one of these kits :).
Re: SAVE ON FUEL ?
If you really want to save on fuel this is what you need 😉
Been running my van on vegetable oil for the past month, mostly filtered veg oil from pubs and hotels I do washing machines for. Reckon it’s saving me almost £150 per week in diesel. All the equipment cost me £350 and a day to fit so already got the money back – if you can fix washing machines, this is dead easy in comparison.
Re: Domestic Appliance Horror Stories2 ?
ruhiyan wrote:so spare me the “give and take” tale because by any standard you care to measure the quality of service provided by ISE is POOR.
I take it you’ve never had any other electrical item that’s failed? Speaking from experience, if you’d bought a machine – many more expensive – off any other manufacturer, you certainly would have had nowhere near this level of service
Hotpoint – 2 weeks
Bosch – 2 weeks
LG – up to 9 monthsplus with all of them you’d have been speaking to someone in a call centre with no idea who you are. I think you’re making yourself look ridiculous with wanting taxis sent to you with parts.
Maybe next time you should buy a Indesit. I heard they respond to any call within 3 minutes, have a fleet of fighter jets to deliver parts, PLUS if anything goes wrong they’ll send an engineer to do your ironing for an entire year!
Re: speed awareness course
Doing a course at the end of this month – 34mph in a 30mph country road with no houses 🙁
Here though they do them 6pm in the evening so you don’t need to lose (much) of a days pay.
Re: Taxpayers £1,400 bill for Bercow’s W/m
Got to be a Whirlpool if it was bought for £419 and needed £438 of repairs on it a year later. Should have called Repaircare 😉
Re: Indesit WIB111 belt keeps coming off
I assume what you actually meant was “I was wrong. The old belt had stretched. Thank you iadom and Martin for saving me the cost of a new machine” but didn’t know how to phrase it? :rolls:
Re: Zanussi ZWD16270W Wierd Fault,
OLLIE2806 wrote:There wasn’t anything in it (no powder or softener) was just running a cleaner through it. (that went straight in the drum). Have since tried it with nothing in, using quick setting and normal setting and it went through fine. Baffling really! I’m going to put it on with a load in shortly.
How do I run a diagnostics test on one of these?
Thanks for your response.
Ollie.Turn dial to off position. Hold down start button and button tom the left of start and turn dial one position to right. After about a second display will flash C11. Move dial clockwise, each position tests different thing as per old Zanussis.
At 6 o’clock dial will show last recorded error code.
Re: Electrolux EWD1214I leak
Assuming you’ve already checked the door seal for rips, the machine needs to come out, it’s the only way to find a leak. Check inlet hose, then tip machine back and you can normally see where it’s leaking from.
Re: statesman/amica
Both are Chinese (Wuxi?) imports, same as many others like Matsui M100WM09. I think originally the Amicas had some parts as higher spec, e.g. pulley was thicker material, but this year they seem identical.
Shame no-one seems to stock the AWCTs any more, the boards on them were unreliable but cheap, and great machines to work on. But both Swift and Portway have stopped selling them.
