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Re: Bosch WFO2464GB – Will not spin
Moggs206 wrote:Could I have replaced brushes wrong edge way around. Is this critical ?
Would m/c still work to the extent that it does if I had got this wrong?Yes and probably.
If you look at your new brushes you will see the end is angled, not straight. If you look on the motor you will see the two brush holders are set slightly at an angle to the commutator, also not quite straight. You need to put the brushes in so they will be “flat” against the commuator, e.g. if your brush holders are angled \ then brush must also be angled _
While you’re there also check the commutator isn’t damaged by spinning the motor by hand and running a clean finger along the copper commutator contacts – if any are raised or damaged then it’s new motor time.
Re: Help! Washing Machine Troubles
The exception, of course, is if you see any damaged components on the board itself, e.g. melted resistors etc :).
As iadom says, though, this may be a good time to cut your losses and call an engineer – firstly, modules are very expensive, and if it’s not at faulty you may have wasted a lot of money. Even worse, if another part on the machine is faulty it may just blow the board again, and you’ll have an expensive piece of toast plugged into your machine.
An engineer will not only take away the risk, but will also be able to get a reconditioned board, so labour and parts may well be less than a “new” board anyway.
Hope that helps :).
Re: How to decide what to store and what to scrap?
My public liability insurance, through Direct Line, excludes “defective workmanship” and “professional negligence”, but doesn’t say anything about second hand parts, so I assume not… it’s an interesting question though and I shall call them and check.
I would think if you specifically told a customer you had fitted a new part but didn’t you would be in trouble, but I never use second hand parts for repair jobs unless a new part would be prohibitively expensive – if this is the case I always explain that I am fitting a second hand part to the customer. I do use them for fixing recons though – in the end, the rest of the machine is “second hand” so I can’t see the harm.
Re: Ariston Margherita A1635
31Ω is about correct for a heater, so that checks out.
No resistance across thermistor could well cause your problems – expected resistance at room temperature would be about 6kΩ from memory, but to be honest it’s unusual for them to fail. I’d double check just to be sure, especially with the recent problems you had with timer – this machine is notorious for problems with connections to PCB and thermistor.
Re: AEG Washer Dryer – fan not working
Ah, thanks. You can hear the element relay click, and then both connectors go from 0V to 240V… so it seems to be working okay. But as I have a spare machine will try a bit of switching around.
To be honest whenever a customer says it’s washer dryer it’s always bad news – pain to work on and troubleshoot. Still… I suppose the fact they’re so bloody unreliable is something to be thankful for :wink:.
Re: AEG Washer Dryer – fan not working
Thanks Martin, really appreciated.
Had a look, can’t see any obvious faults with wiring or connectors so it’s off to EMW I think :).
Re: hotpoint aqualtis aqgd1695
Give them a call 0115 9652118, if they have a spare reconditioned part in stock they send it to you next day delivery, you send them back the failed on in exchange. Pretty reasonable prices as well :).
Re: Bosch WFF1201GB washing machine ‘stripped’ program dial
Depends what’s wrong with it. If it’s just broken the connection between the fascia and module, then a careful superglue job would be relatively inexpensive. Check by removing the lid WITH POWER OFF and checking whether the green plastic shaft from the PCB is damaged or not. Turn carefully with a pair of long nosed pliers if you’re not sure.
If the timer has gone,, or if the green shaft is too badly damaged to patch together, you’ll need a new module. These are the best part of £200, or someone in the trade to get you a reconditioned one, which will cost about £50.
Apart from anything else, it certainly proves the rule that most expensive repairs are caused by the user trying to continue using the machine when the bearings are shot/timer is sticking etc. 😉
Re: Hotpoint washing machine drum not moving
Probably for the best – it’s not the sort of job that would be ideal for a first-time DIYer, even for an experienced engineer it can take a couple of hours, depending how much of a pain it is to get the bearings out the back of the tub.
Re: Diplomat APM 8512 fault
Or maybe belt is stretched and slipping – can you describe the sound? Haven’t seen enough of these machines to know if motor position can be adjusted to tighten belt, otherwise new belts aren’t expensive.
Re: Tips, Tricks & Shortcuts
aqualectric wrote:The only thing it will not remove is black mould stain.
I’ve found Dettol Mould remover works pretty well on this – £1.50 for a spray bottle in Tesco. Bottles are lime green and in cleaning aisle so pretty easy to spot.
Spray on and leave for a few minutes then wipe off with thinners. Door seal has very slight discolouration but definitely passable for a cheap recon WM or similar, and works even if the seal is really bad.
Quite a nice cheap extra for repair customers too if their door seal is mouldy for a couple of pence.
Re: Bosch wff2001 sticks before rinse cycle, then….buzzing
Could be any one of a number of things – buzzing normally faulty solenoid for cold water valve, machine would use hot water during wash then time out after 5 mins of waiting for cold water to come in, although if it manually rinses fine it could be the module as well.
What temperature do you wash on? Have you tried a 30C/cold wash and seeing if it starts up okay?
Re: Zanussi Zwf12070W
Check brushes. Almost certain to be this. You may be able to hear characteristic “crackling” as the brushes arc against the commutator.
Relatively simple to replace yourself, or cheap to get an engineer to do it, clean commutator properly with a comm stick if you want new brushes to last.
Re: Any news from ISE recently?
Hi Don,
I tried this, still no reply :(. I’ll send a follow up email today, I would guess they’re really busy.
Thanks for your help.
Re: Ignis AWP046 timer problem
You need to call in an engineer who will be able to test the various components. You’re right in that a faulty/blocked pressure switch is a prime suspect, but it could be any number of other components (heater, thermostat, motor, valves etc.) that would be causing the problem – or the timer itself. It’s too big a job to do DIY with only internet advice, unless you know what you’re doing.
The timer switches can be reconditioned by companies like EMW, cost is about £40 to trade, but obviously if a component has caused the failure that needs replacing too, or else it will just blow again. If you’re uncertain, WITH MACHINE UNPLUGGED, you can unclip circuit board and check for burnt tracks/connections. Obviously bearing in mind age of machine you may want to consider if good second hand one is going to be better.
