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Re: SMEG WMI16AAA – Very noisy on spin
Hi,
When you say there is quite a bit of movement in the drum, I assume you mean play? If there is any play in the drum the bearings will have gone, you will probably hear a “rumbling” noise if you spin the drum by hand.
Bearings for these machines aren’t cheap – around the £45 mark off the top of my head. Spider may well need replacing too depending on how knackered the bearings are. Although it’s made easier by the bearings being mounted in a crosspiece, it’s still a difficult DIY job to do.
Definitely worth doing though, as they’re good machines. Just don’t overload the machine when you’ve got the new bearings, as this is what causes them to fail.
Re: Hoover HNF7217 wont spin!!!
I assume you mean HNF7127?
Are you sure all the water has been drained out? Just because you can’t see any in the drum doesn’t mean it’s all gone. Check by removing filter (behind kickplate at bottom of machine) – be ready with a bowl. While you’re there thoroughly clean filter check pump for obstructions – including right at the back with a torch. Pump impeller should turn around reasonably easily. Any water left by blocked filter would activate pressure switch and prevent machine from spinning.
If it’s still not working check sump hose and waste pipe for blockages.
If it still doesn’t work check motor carbons, pressure switch then module..
Let us know if you still can’t solve the problem.
Re: insurance work
Shouldn’t be any need, did they give you access to edit your website? I hate computers. keep all my accounts in good old books, but mine came with a thing where you log on and can change the text on screen just like in this forum, so it’s dead easy. Might be worth asking them if you could do this?
I use to to chuck my recons on too as cheaper than selling through eBay and you get more money… not that there’s much around ATM as price of metal means scraap machines are hard to come by :(.
Re: insurance work
Hi,
What I’d say about the website is that you need to sell yourself a bit more. What’s your unique selling point, e.g. experience, quick response, free call out etc.
Without being rude, compare this to one of your competitors: –
http://www.edinburghrepairs.co.uk/Bang – first page, I already know they’re experienced, big letters at the top of the page. I also know they do free estimates and all work is guaranteed – yes, I know, EVERYONE on here guarantees their work but you need to use that to talk yourself up :). Customers are like sheep, you know you’re the best but they still need a bit of prodding to call you!
They also have positive review on Google – in my experience loads of young people with Indes*its etc. use Google so easy jobs – ask some of your regulars to write something.
No point paying £hundreds to submit to search engines, you can do it yourself for free here: –
http://www.submitexpress.com/submit.htmlThe thing that really counts for search engines though is sites linking too you – try and find an Edinburgh info or environment website that’s quite popular and get them to link to you – you’ll notice the difference in days.
Hope that helps – we all have quiet times but that’s what the big pile of old machines to recon in the workshop is for 😉
Re: Bosch WFR2868GB/05 bearing replacement
iadom wrote:
OldManCoyote wrote:
I doubt even someone proficient in the job and with all the right tools would take much less than a full day.One (proficient ) man or woman, hour and a half to two hours max, 😉
Shame you don’t see many of the Hotpoint WMs around any more, on a good run I can do one of them in under 30 mins 😆But for Bosch as iadom says a couple of hours tops.
Re: zanussi ZWF16581W VERY NOISY
It would help us if you could describe what sort of noise it is, e.g. rattling, grinding, etc.
Simplest thing to start is when the machine is empty unscrew the filter cap that’s behind the little door on bottom right hand side of machine. With a torch inspect inside for any hair clips, coins etc that could be rattling around. If there is nothing there drain pump could be knackered, usually impeller breaking away from pump shaft. You will need a new drain pump, moderate DIY to fit.
Re: Bosch WFF 200L
Have you tried the suggestion above of running a cold wash to eliminate the heater?
Don’t be fooled by the water being warm, this could be from your normal hot water supply.
Re: Bosch WFK2201:re-fills after wash cyle complete
Can you explain the problem a bit more? The machine is meant to refill with water three time after wash to rinse the clothes (sorry if that sounds obvious!).
We need to know what is happening – e.g.
After wash: –
Drain pump on
Spins out water
???Thanks.
Re: Fabric conditioner
Martin wrote:What in the name of heaven are you talking about? At first there’s the ‘blind them with science approach’ stating things like “first is to react with alkali calcium salts” and “the hydrogen ions in the vinegar bond to the anionic fibres on some clothing” and then because vinegar by it’s very nature sticks and taints anything it touches with an odorous obnoxious pervasive radiance, you suggest tainting its chemical action with “essential oils?”………..oils is it?…..oils…??
Sorry pal but your case has floundered on the beach at high tide on that one.
Ken asked if I thought vinegar works because people say it will. The answer is no, that chemistry is involved both with detergents and fabric softeners. It’s not exactly complex science, though – acids reacting with bases, etc. If that “blinds you with science” then perhaps don’t wade into a debate ABOUT the chemistry of washing clothes.FYI, you can very easily prove that clothes don’t smell of vinegar after final rinse by trying it yourself on an old machine, rather than asserting that vinegar “taints anything it touches with an odorous obnoxious pervasive radiance” :rolls:.
Re: Fabric conditioner
kwatt wrote:My understanding is that in order make clothing feel softer you have to “fluff” the fibres of the clothing up, make them separate and stay that way. This is why tumble drying often produces a better result on towels in particular, getting thumped about a bit and having air blown through them fluffs up the fibres.
Only this isn’t really what makes fabric softener work – as you said, it’s effectively grease that’s attracted to clothing. It’s having electrically conductive lubricant all over the clothes that makes them feel soft. Tumble drying and fabric softeners soften clothes two very different ways.
kwatt wrote:I’d dearly love to know how vinegar accomplishes this.
My understanding (based on my GCSE science, so I’m open to being corrected), is that vinegar would work on two levels.
The first is to react with the alkali calcium salts (calcium stearate), which is formed with the calcium in the hard water reacting with the sodium stearate in the detergent. Calcium salts are a large part of what makes a fabric feel “rough” to touch. The extent of this, is, of course, debatable, not least because it depends on three huge variables (amount of detergent used in the first place, amount of vinegar, and the hardness of the water). However, it would at least have some effect, producing ionic salt and water, which would then be pumped away as normal.
The second way is that the hydrogen ions in the vinegar bond to the anionic fibres on some clothing, minimising static electricity, same as fabric softener does because it is electrically conductive. Again, due to the nature of ions, even very dilute vinegar would remain effective here.
I suppose it’s difficult because, let’s face it, theory is all well and good but only trying it out actually proves anything. Even huge companies like Arial do millions of different formulations, and they have much more than GCSE science behind them! However, I think there must be SOMETHING in it – clearly millions of people use vinegar, and it’s difficult to believe all of them are taken in with a placebo effect.
Re: Fabric conditioner
kwatt wrote:Vinegar is about as much use as a chocolate fireguard unless you’re intention is to smell like a fish and chip shop. It is a very weak acid that you are putting into solution, roughly about a 100/1 ratio if not more. It will accomplish nothing other than making you smell bad, if that.
My understanding is that the purpose of adding vinegar is to soften the water in the final rinse. Because pH is a logarithmic scale, I thought the point is that even a little of a “weak” acid such as vinegar (pH 2.4) has a big softening effect on hard water (pH 8.5-ish), because it’s many hundreds of times more acidic than hard water is alkali. I’ll admit I haven’t tested what effect on pH it actually has, but a quick Google search surely shows a large amount of anecdotal evidence that it’s effective.
I appreciate you probably knew all the above already :). But I’d certainly be really interested to know why exactly wouldn’t vinegar work? The science behind it seems very sound to me, as opposed to a typical “old wives tale”. Hope you don’t mind me asking publically but I’m sure it would be useful to have it posted up, in case other people have the same question too.
Re: Fabric conditioner
Fabric softener has never really been necessary, as it doesn’t play any part in washing the clothes, just makes them softer & scents them. However, it’s not great stuff for washing machines – tends to block the siphon pipe in the drawer as well stick like glue everywhere in the machine.
A cheap alternative is to use vinegar instead – cheap malt stuff from the supermarket works absolutely fine. Just all the same quantity of vinegar as you would fabric softener. It softens the fabrics but also doesn’t affect the absorbency of towels etc. Finally, it also keeps you machine a lot cleaner. The clothes will only smell of washing powder when they come out of the machine – not of vinegar.
If you want to scent the clothes then adding a few drops of essential oils to the vinegar will achieve this – lavender, orange and eucalyptus all work well.
Hope that helps :).
Re: Hoover AM120 stopped mid cycle
There are many things than can stop it working, but these will normally stop the machine when it gets to the part of the cycle where it is needed, e.g. fault with heater will cause problem when it gets to heating up the water, pressure switch with filling, etc. If the machine won’t start at all 75{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time it’s interlock, otherwise normally faulty on/off switch or a handful of other faults. But, as I said, damaged interlocks are prime candidates for blowing PCB as well.
Re: Hoover AM120 stopped mid cycle
Door lock will be knackered. They’re not repairable but new ones are relatively inexpensive. Part you need will be this: –
http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Washing+ … +Lock.html
It’s possible it may have blown the module as well if it’s not doing anything else even with lock registering, carefully remove module and check for damaged components visually and with multimeter. If all looks clear probably worth chancing buying an interlock and seeing it it fixes it, forcing switch will probably not be making a good connection.
Please note it’s extremely inadvisable to be testing the lock or trying to run the machine whilst it is plugged in, people get killed doing this. Use a multimeter instead. One slip and either you could be shocked or your module will be toast, neither of which is good.
When attaching the new interlock detach one wire at a time from the old lock and reattach to the new one, it’s a common mistake to detach all the wires from the old one and then forget which order they are connected for the new one :).
