Forum Replies Created
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AuthorPosts
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Penguin45
ParticipantWell, I’ve just advised Morgan’s in Leeds to read the front page, as they are just finishing a new residential block in the town centre with 198 (!) of these fitted.
Talk about colourful language 😆 😆
Chris.
Penguin45
ParticipantBuy a Bosch – personal opinion, no links or ties, just a bit better.
Luck,
Penguin45.Penguin45
ParticipantRe: AEG OKO LAVAMAT Washer 6955 brushes
Alex,
Theoretically, there are 3 different motors fitted to this machine, 1 is far more common than the others. Dave Conway will be able to advise you in the morning, so check back later.Regards,
Penguin45.Penguin45
ParticipantRe: noisy zanussi
Mal,
There are two concrete weights on your machine – one on the back and an entire circular (annular) one around the tub front. The front one can (and does break), but neither of them would affect the action of the drum. Your description of it being stiff to turn and the black spotting all point towards bearing failure.This is a complete sod of a job, even for a professional! The casing must be split, the tank removed and split, the inner drum removed and then the bearings and seals replaced. Up here in Yorkshire (where we work for pence!) you’d be looking at £90 plus; bear in mind that there is a 50/50 chance that the shaft will be damaged as well, so add £35 to the bill and it’s all looking a bit expensive.
Zanussi’s tend to be decent machines – if it’s been trouble free so far, it’s probably worth doing, otherwise – move on.
If you check in the Directories section you may find a UKW engineer in your area, failing that, stick your postcode up in here and someone will pick up on it.
Regards,
Penguin45.Penguin45
ParticipantRe: Bradshaws & The Importance Of It
Ken,
If this going to work, you’ll have to have every fact prepared and documented. Wrong parts supply linked to model number and job reference; duplicate (triplicate even) supply all MUST be provable against the work supplied. This is totally tiresome, but you MUST do it! The judge will probably (certainly) get bored of it, but will get the general picture pretty quickly and move on from there.Luck,
Chris.Penguin45
ParticipantRe: Plastic “Y” Connectors
Grrr – I hate the world on general and everyone in it specifically….. 😡
Penguin45
ParticipantOi, gits – I’m a non flying aquatic bird right? Mind you, the goggles would have been useful!
You’re as bad as me Richard – you HAVE read all of it, haven’t you?
This was digging in the vaults a bit – come on then, what is the most useful tool in your toolbox? And it isn’t a device for extracting penguins from horses hooves. 😆
Chris.
Penguin45
ParticipantRichard,
I’ve got a customer who does swimming pool installations, if you really do want to go off the deep end and dive in….Failing that, get over here and I’ll plug you into the mains for the other sort of “soak test”! 😈
Seriously, it was just the last straw in a thoroughly rotten day’s work – none of the calls were as described, it all over ran and got later and later.
Drowned was, of course, a figure of speech for an aquatic bird…………. 😉
Chris.
Penguin45
ParticipantRe: Bosch Max WFL2800 Boiling
It’s probably not the part cost Kirk, it’ll be an extra operation in assembly which can be removed, thus saving costs.
Heaters with a slightly extended plastic sleeve behind the terminals tend to have internal fuses. Bleckmann heaters spring to mind, as used in Hotpoint, Whirlpool and Bauknecht machines.
Cheers,
Chris.Penguin45
ParticipantMost heaters these days have internal temperature fuses just infront of the terminals. Begs the question why they didn’t trip on Kirk’s machine if it really did boil dry?
Chris.
Penguin45
ParticipantRe: Plastic “Y” Connectors
It was in a cupboard – I couldn’t get to the screws on the side of the control panel. It HAD to come out!
And as for you Richard – the customer was too busy laughing to think about complaining and paid up like a lamb.
Cheers,
Chris.Penguin45
ParticipantOk Roy,
I had a horrible thought about this – the PCB is double sided…… BTW apart from the digital section on the PCB, everything is at mains voltage.Everything is pointing to a failure of the logic circuitry – ie, the door won’t lock if the computer doesn’t tell it to.
As mentioned earlier, a control unit is likely to be an arm and both legs and can be the difference between the machine being repaired and scrapped.
The alternative is to contact :-
QER – 01900 67913
EMW – 01623 634200They can repair most of these units for significantly less than a new replacement – QER used to offer a test service.
You will need to find the timer numbers on the label to get an exact quotation.
Luck,
Penguin45.Penguin45
ParticipantRe: Indesit WIDL 126 UK Washer Dryer.
Sounds like a pressure switch problem, this will be covered by your guarantee. It sounds like you have done the obvious by checking the filter, so the call shouldn’t be chargeable.
Get ’em in!
Penguin45.
Penguin45
ParticipantSorry for the delay Roy, been pondering this one a little bit. It does rather come down to the timer/module unit. Philfish’s point is interesting, although I confess that I haven’t come across it – if the machine were still operating in that condition it points more to an earth problem (the earth and neutral ultimately join).
I would suspect from what you are describing that there is no supply from the timer unit to the door interlock. Are you certain that when soldering up the damage that all contacts were rejoined fully? Regrettably, if the original interlock went with a bang, it is entirely possible that this has flashed back to the processor and it no longer signals the lock to energise. Tricky one. If you can prove the supply (or lack of it) to the lock we can move closer to an answer.
Philfish’s comment that the timer unit is expensive is true – however there are one or two cheaper solutions if it comes to it.
Regards,
Penguin45.Penguin45
ParticipantRe: Hair Cut
No bickering now ….
God only created a certain number of perfect heads – all the rest he covered in hair!
😆 😆
Chris.
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