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Re: Darnit – my Smeg hob is broken again!…
As wsts says, you’ve got a gas supply, what is it? What is your standing pressure? Working pressure?, did you fit the right thermocouple or universal ones? Simple question you sure you’ve fitted the thermocouple correctly? Or you been fitting it wrong several times? You might well have been fitting them wrong, you sure you haven’t over tightened the thermocouple damaging the connection with the coin or kinked it, is there an interupter in it? Have you measured the voltage of the thermocouple? ,You sure the burner is ok? Is the flame catching the thermocouple? You haven’t done anything daft like wash it in the dishwasher or anything silly, is your extractor to close, is it pulling / lifting the flame, what is the ventilation and the requirements for your kitchen and appliance, What pans you using? Is your burner blocked? Are your bundy tubes clear? I could literally go on all night, but my point is you don’t actually know what your on about and requires a gas safe engineer because you wouldn’t be here slating what you say is an easy repair when you don’t actually what know the cure is!
See it every day “it’s only a 5 minute job” yeah that you can’t do! So call in an expert and stop risking people’s lives on your limited knowledge, there is a very good reason gas safe was introduced and that is to stop people who don’t know what they are doing messing! Everything is easy when you know it,Re: True or false?
The regs say nothing about being qualified to be responsible. It’s all based on being deemed competent, how you deem competence is another argument, could be qualifications or to prove it through experience and knowledge (grandfather’s rule) but to add a twist the regs ain’t even law they are British standard and that’s not a statutory law it’s a standard which they expect you to work too.
Basically if you’ve installed or inspected and tested the installation your responsible for the installation, if you’ve repaired what’s attached to the end of it your responsible for that, but you are allowed to do like for like minor repair on the installation as long as nothing changes.
Can’t really see the big issue, just do the repair and do your safety checks as normal and all should be ok.
PhilRe: Miele G1140SC Dishwasher
Have you checked for blockages in the circ pump? Have you checked the pressure switch?
Phil
Re: Miele W3830 Paragon Plus
As previously said check breather tubes. As this one got the y piece by the side of the dispenser? If so try cleaning that and the attached hoses going down to the drain pump and back to the air break.
PhilRe: Haier Twin Wash System launches
Shouldn’t they concentrate on getting a basic washer right first before doubling it up! I bet the out of balance on those things is going to have a fun time.
PhilRe: Advising the customer on buying a machine. Your top pick
I obviously know why, but it’s a shame manufacturers don’t let us know how many cycles they’re designed for, for example miele 10000 cycles then obviously going down and then people could work out for themselves there expectations and best machine for their budget.
And then perhaps they would start paying the extra because they know what they’re buying ain’t upto the job, and then perhaps start pushing prices and expectations go up along with repairs!
I know I’m dreaming.Optimistic Phil.
Re: True or false?
Thought it was answered? As long as nothing changes to the installation don’t worry about it,just do your normal safety tests.
Of course flexible cable or twin and earth, or portable or fixed installation as something to do with the question, after all it was the op that was asking about the installation and if we are responsible for it or not, which means first of all you have to determine the type of appliance or type of installation before you can determine which regulations it as to adhere to.
PhilRe: True or false?
Thought the regs book was red? Did mine 5years ago so might of changed, I know the amacus book is yellow which is a good little book. Must remember the regs and part p are two different things.
I know what you say about the flexible cable, and in theory your right, but, doesn’t flexible cable have less current carrying capacity due to it being stranded and twin and earth being solid core plus I wonder how much 10 mm flex would be even if it could carry that sort of load. Just imagine it trying to cope with a 15kw induction range. Think people will still use good old twin and earth, I suppose it’s all down to if you class it has hard wired or portable.
PhilRe: True or false?
It’s been a few years since I sat my part p but part p states you are allowed to change like for like without the need to certificate it or notify and that includes cables, sockets, cooker outlets etc, even in special locations such as the kitchen.
Your not altering the spec your just replacing damaged part like for like, so the design or spec hasn’t changed so what is there to test? Test for safety yes, not installation.
Unless they’ve changed it all again and I’ve missed it,but I doubt it because even 80{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the sparks haven’t passed their inspection and test so can’t even sign it off themselves anyway!
PhilRe: Masterpart….or Amazon?
Got to say it, with the handy work of seen of knowhow engineers and delivery drivers if that’s the industry standard and qualification level they are after, then count me in! I’m up for that!! I like a good laugh. I should be able to sit that exam while I boil the kettle for my coffee! Beats doing the crossword I suppose.
I actually believe in having a trade qualification to show at least a bit of knowledge, for safety if nothing else, what good it will do at this stage I don’t know because I do believe it’s the low cost of the appliances which is strangling the industry, and customers attitude which seems to be a never ending battle.
Who will be the examining board? City and guilds? Eal? Who will regulate it, who would you be able to complain to? Etc there is a thousand questions, and that’s before we mention money or government. But if the answer to everything is dsg then they think not only would they have the power over the repair industry but they would also be in charge of passing and regulating all their competitors and have the full contact details of every engineer in the country, mmm think there might be a lot of people with a lot of power have something to say about that.
Good luck to themRe: model no belling
Don’t know the model but I would say that’s an old hotpoint/creda just badged up as a belling.
Phil
Re: Miele f90
Done one years ago. Think miele recommend changing all 3 boards (have no idea why) and we all know how expensive miele parts are, so just go for the small oxy sensor board but I would still sit down when they give you the price.
Phil
Re: Enzo Balestrazzi Return
As far as I remember, they was Chinese tat which only the trade could buy but you had a buy a container load and they had no warranty so you had to cover the guarantee yourself.
I don’t know if things have changed.Phil
Re: Puting a higher rated oven element in
I wouldn’t put in a higher rated element, I would fit a lower rated element if I had no choice ie Christmas eve and unable to locate correct parts.
As Martin says it could take out the relay on the timer or a pcb, might only draw an extra amp or two but how close they push the tolerances it could be enough to push it over the edge.Phil
Re: Puting a higher rated oven element in
But the stat would of reached temp sooner so cut out as it would, just sooner that’s all.Remember the oven should already be pre heated so it would just be a case of the stat cycling it’s hardly going to make much of a noticeable difference if any at all.
Or is the original question in regards to the technical side of things? ie,to the current it pulls?Phil
