streetlighter

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 190 total)
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  • in reply to: De dietrich DVH640JU1/A #403625
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: De dietrich DVH640JU1/A

    Does anyone have a copy of the tec/training manual ?
    I have run out of idea’s now and I think this dishwasher is of to the scrap yard if I can’t sort it this week

    Ta

    Paul

    in reply to: De dietrich DVH640JU1/A #403624
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: De dietrich DVH640JU1/A

    hi

    what could be the cause of 150v across the dishwasher wash pump, making it rattle and rotate slowly when you close the door, even before the program is selected.
    The wash pump works when it should but overheats before completion of the wash

    should I be changing the pcb ?

    any ideas

    Paul

    in reply to: wpl toploader #365666
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: wpl toploader

    Thanks paul
    I will give it a try
    Paul

    in reply to: wpl toploader #365664
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: wpl toploader

    motor coupling is shot, but should the drum turm easy one direction motor runs free but the other it gets very tight but does turn the drum, should this be this tight. is it worth trying a new coupling or should i dig deeper into clutch or gearbox ?
    Ta
    paul

    in reply to: wpl toploader #365663
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: wpl toploader

    thank you eastlmark and clockworkone can you pm me the training manual clockworkone I have never worked on these before. im still looking for my 7/16″ and 1/2″ spanners :-)Paul

    in reply to: wpl toploader #365662
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: wpl toploader

    Sorry guys
    yes The dodgy bolt is the one holding the paddles inside the drum.
    I now realise that I can pull off the motor without removing the whole gearbox and shaft assembly. 😕 thanks saved me loads of time if it is the coupling. motor spins and it makes a rattly plastic broken of sound and no drum movement so hoping not gearbox
    Paul

    in reply to: How to do a test program on a zan zwd1681w #347394
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: How to do a test program on a zan zwd1681w

    Just been to this The real fault code is e94 (config)? can I reset the config on this modual, do I need any special programer to do it? or should I get a new board (can I config the new one?)
    Ta
    Paul

    in reply to: aeg 91123471800 #332004
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: aeg 91123471800

    Thanks Geoff
    I orderd the wronge wash pump (listed on connect) 🙁
    Has anyone fitted the conversion pump DST1110999909 with the new sump hose and pressure switch to replace the old 2 piece washpump ❓
    Paul

    in reply to: bosch/neff half filling with water #331353
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: bosch/neff half filling with water

    Hi
    Are you sure the numbers rubbed off its usually along the side or the top of the steel door as you open it, its quite transparent you have to move the door abit to see it clearly, starts with 3 letters like sgs then a long number.
    Paul

    in reply to: whirlpool 3rlsq8000jq #331981
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: whirlpool 3rlsq8000jq

    Thanks for repies
    Were can i get a usa to 3/4 hose from to try, dont want to cough up £80+ just to find there 3/4 both ends and he’s just crossed thredded them or something daft :rolls:
    Ta
    Paul

    in reply to: samsung f/f info #297395
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: samsung f/f info

    thanks flyman
    i will give that a try & post back
    paul

    in reply to: beko washpump #293288
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: beko washpump

    Thank you Mike & Chris
    This part is o/o/s at connect does anyone know if 1740701200 would fit or where else to get trade beko spares as connect,masterpart,qualtex,seme dont have it in stock ?
    Ta
    Paul

    in reply to: How to do an insulation test on a built in cooker. #293146
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: How to do an insulation test on a built in cooker.

    Any electronics, take the cable to oven out at isolator or fusebox (once you have actualy removed all 3 cables) and join L/N together and test to earth, anything over 1 meg ok. I always short L/N in a connector to make sure because if 1 of them slips out duing test you could frazel the pcb ete.
    This is always done now on all appliances and circuits I rairly test L/E N/E anymore its to risky. ( central heating, flu lamps, xbox, plasma’s are the worst. )
    Paul

    in reply to: candy cfmf wiring manual #291845
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: candy cfmf wiring manual

    Thanks chris
    magic
    Paul

    in reply to: europart spares suppliers #281300
    streetlighter
    Participant

    Re: europart spares suppliers

    K
    Do AW services have a web site you can order/price check or do you have to keep phoning them?
    Paul

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 190 total)