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Connector block will be fine, make sure the connections are good, if it cancels the F4 alarm it will eliminate a fitting error.
Sounds like your connections are not making a good contact, your picture looks like you are connecting it right providing each wire matches the same numbered slot, ie brown wires in 1, blue wires in 2 etc, if as it seems a connection issue is present, try connecting the brown (red) wires together and wrap in insulating tape and repeat with blue wires, I mention red wire as some older units have red and blue and newer ones use brown and blue, it will not be a problem leaving it taped up as it will be behind and outside the cabinet, I also see in the picture that another sensor has been fitted using a quick connection.
First thing to find out is, what is shutting it off, it could be a sensor issue or the compressor overheating, once established a repair or modification is needed. Once super frost is pressed the unit will keep the compressor running constantly until pressed again or the time out elapses.
Might be worth fitting a small circulation fan in the compressor area to move some air around if high ambient temperature is causing the compressor to over heat.Not being funny, but it would have been quicker to google an Engineer near you if your food is defrosting.
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[TD]The compressor starts by resistive start and induction run, as the current flows through the PTC , it heats up increasing its internal resistance until it will not allow more current to flow , disengaging the start winding. The start winding is isolated and will not engage further as a trickle of current to the start winding will maintain heat and high resistance during the operation of the compressor.When the unit stops the PTC MUST!!! cool down to allow current to flow again on next start-up. If it trys to start to early the internal overload will activate in the compressor.
So it really is not designed for frequent starts and requires very low starting torque. [/TD]
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[/TABLE]Get the Engineer back out, Liebherr are correct on your issue, but the Engineer has either replaced the wrong sensor or not fitted it correctly.
Your freezer door seal is bonded as 3 parts, The door, liner and gasket, the replacement seal is not an easy fix. The door has to be removed and placed on a flat surface.
The old seal has to be cut off close to the liner, a gap has to be made under the liner edge to slot in the new door seal and then secured with 30 screws, there is no stock at present in the UK but is available once ordered, Part number 7108866.
Regards, Tony.He is correct, the fans are bullet proof, in 20 years of working on Liebherr units I have only replaced a handful of fans, I still think the issue will be the sensor if you are getting those temperatures and icing up, the fan is 2 watts at 9 volts, so do NOT power it to mains voltage, if it did not work after his visit, it is not unreasonable to ask the Engineer to reattend as a recall as he has not resolved your issue, simply defrosting it without carrying out checks as to why it iced up is not satisfactory.
Hi Peter, slowly and without getting one area too hot at one time use a hairdryer to clear the ice and the pour some boiling water in the drain channel, as it is possible the drain got blocked with ice, causing the thick ice to form at the bottom, until the water flows away to the evaporation tray on the compressor.
Check that the freezer is not over iced, if you have ice or frost on the rear panel in the freezer that is your issue, if the system senses the freezer is not at the correct temperature, it will sacrifice the fridge to put all its effort in maintaining the freezer.
There is a service menu to test the fan, this unit is not analogue, there is the logic front board and that sends settings to the rear motherboard, I would suggest the evaporator sensor is faulty, it brings the fan on around -20 to -25 and also terminates the defrost. part number 9590148.
Regards, Tony.
