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You are going to have to push off the fan blade and remove it (not a lot of room and you will need to be on a small set of steps ) you can with a bit of fiddling around extract the blade once pushed off the spindle of the motor and fit the clip, however I do not see a problem leaving that clip off, providing the blade is a tight fit on the motor shaft and spins freely without jamming on anything.
It belongs on the fan blade, it looks out of shape and needs to be made a bit rounder to fit tight on the end of the plastic fan blade, the centre little bar prevents you pushing the blade on too far and acts as a stop position.
Its sometimes difficult to diagnose a fault without being in front of it for us, as we would be checking temperatures at the various sensors and then checking their resistance to confirm they are reading OK and sending that information to the board.
The air sensor in the fridge generates the fridge display and turns the compressor off at the correct temperature and switches the solenoid valve to freezer gas flow only, the fridge evaporator sensor switches the valve back and turns compressor on after the fridge evaporator has defrosted, Same with freezer sensors, air generates display and cuts off compressor and the evaporator starts the fan ( with door shut ) at around -20 to -25c and during defrosts ends it when coil is defrosted at around +10c.
The black nipple is a drain valve, which opens slightly to allow the freezer defrost water to dribble out, and then closes causing an air tight seal in the drain. It maybe worth cleaning the valve or fitting a new one if it is allowing air to enter the freezer, causing ice to form in the drain and can lead to excessive ice in the drain channel below the freezer coil from the defrost water and builds up to the bottom of the coil, this stops fan airflow and then this could cause the top of the coil to frost up with snowy ice, which the normal action of the heater can not remove.Evaporator sensor brings on the fan when coil reaches around -20c and then also terminates the defrost around 10c, is the fan running ? quick look on opening the door should see blades slowing down, is the thermal fuse OK ? it is a one time use fuse that shuts the heater off around +83c if a fault occurs from the coil getting too hot, is the drain cap above the compressor clean, remove and check ensuring the seal is inserted as it was on removal for inspection.
That’s because Refrigeration is a specialist trade, which ties us to F-Gas regulations, similar to being Gas Safe, and many a washing machine repairer does not have the knowledge or the qualifications, and why I and mostly all Refrigeration Engineers leave the washing machines and cookers etc to them.
The thermostat phial will be either pushed into a plastic tube in the top housing, or run through the roof section and inserted through the rear wall, remove the four twist lock studs on the front of the evaporator with a half turn of them and gently ease the evaporator panel out the see the phial inserted into a plastic holder, dont forget to line up the rubber trim on the sides of the evaporator and reassemble in reverse.
There are several versions of that unit on index 001 from 25 to 26D and they are not the same housing.
Sounds like the ice mould has a crack in it or maybe split, depending on the index number for year of production, you may just require a new ice mould, but there are various repairs and upgrades.
You mention the green blocks, are they flashing in sequence with the super frost light ? if they are and its the 9 7 and 5 then that is a fault code for a sensor failure.
Pull out the bottom and middle freezer drawers and see if there is ice/frost on the rear panel, if so the freezer will need an extended defrost by turning it off for several days, it is possible you had left the freezer door slightly open at some point.
I know I had to do a handling course to gain a certification card to allow me to purchase and use these refrigerants ( R600a and R290a ) and was recently asked for my company Fgas certificate to purchase 2 cans of R600a, and questioned them, and was told it was now required to purchase R600a as well as other refrigerants.
Unless you are a qualified refrigeration engineer with Fgas qualifications I am surprised you could buy refrigerant and doubt due to its flammable properties anyone would supply information to you on recharging.
Turn it off for about a week to allow a full defrost, or remove rear panel in freezer and carefully defrost it with a hair dryer, try not applying to much heat as there is an expensive thermal fuse located on the cooling coil.
Sensor 9590214 has a lower resistance than newer versions used now, I am not sure why you still get F4, The resistance in KOhm at +20c is 2.4 at 0c 5.7 and -18 its 13.5 for the one you require, new sensors are much higher, +20c is 5.9 and at 0c its15.3 and -15c its 34.1.
This could confuse the PCB if the sensor is not compatable despite being sold as an evaporator sensor, which is why it is important to purchase the correct part and why I advised buying the 9590214 in the first instance.
