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The capillary tube is the thin copper pipe wound around the filter drier, This is part of the refrigeration pipework containing the refrigerant and controlling its flow. There is no valve on this unit to divert the refrigerant to one or both of the compartments. The evaporator sensor is the white cable with sensor bulb, attached to the rear interior wall of the fridge by a screwed on plastic bracket. As stated the system is a single cooling circuit supplying refrigerant cooling to freezer and fridge. If the sensor has now been placed away from the rear wall of the fridge ( evaporator ) and the fridge is now cold as per your last post, then it is possible the sensor is faulty, but you said in your first post the fridge was not cold with sensor removed, so slightly confused now. But to recap the refrigerant flows to the freezer first and once frozen around the freezer walls, it then flows to the fridge, once the fridge rear wall is frozen the sensor will shut off the compressor and the fridge wall will start to defrost, but before the freezer has a chance to also defrost the sensor brings the compressor back on and the process is repeated.
This a 2007-2008 Portuguese model, it fits into your carcase that has its own cupboard doors which are then attached to the fridge doors with slider guides and runners, these are supplied when the unit is new and I cannot find them as a spare part or kit to buy
Temperature is controlled in both sections via the evaporator sensor in the fridge, depending on set the temperature ( fridge setting only ) the correct temperature will be obtained in the freezer, the refrigeration circuit is a loop, freezer first then fridge, once fridge is cold enough the sensor shuts down the compressor and restarts the compressor for cooling after the rear wall of fridge has defrosted. If the rear wall of the fridge is not freezing and compressor running constantly, then you may have a weak compressor or a shortage of gas, the last version of this model an index 20B-001 it was produced between 2004-2006, with two earlier versions produced before this, so what ever index you have they are old units.
Refrigerator compartment: The refrigerator compartment is equipped with a foamed-in evaporator, an air sensor and an evaporator sensor. Both sensors can be replaced separately. The air sensor detects the temperature for the temperature display and switches off the refrigeration function. The evaporator sensor registers the temperature for defrosting the refrigerator evaporator and switches the refrigeration function on
Hi Mike, there is a torx screw on the face of the bottom hinge, unscrew that and slide the door off with the pin that sits in the lower hinge groove and the bottom of the door, then you can check if the top hinge pin is loose.
It is possible the fridge evaporator sensor is playing up, if it fails completely a fault code will appear in the temperature setting display, however the cooling is also controlled via a solenoid valve, rare they fail but they can, price for sensor sounds spot on as it comes as a kit due to the old one being foamed into the rear wall of the fridge. If he is familiar with the unit a quick test in service mode and a check on the resistance of the sensors will find the issue, another issue could be the freezer over iced it is worth checking that you have no frost or ice on the rear panel in the freezer on removing the drawers.
Fan runs when freezer evaporator sensor reaches temperature ( around -20c ) and the freezer door is closed.
It certainly looks like a shortage of gas or a poorly pumping compressor, only a trained Engineer will be able to tell you which it is by doing a pressure test, compressor changes are expensive and a lack of gas would mean a hole somewhere in the system and unless found and repaired, if at all possible you will continue to lose gas as soon as it is refilled.
Hi Jon, check that the freezer has not become over iced, these units will direct maximum cooling to freezer and sacrifice the fridge if the coil because is iced up to maintain the frozen food, take out all the freezer drawers and see if you have any frost/ice on the rear panel.
Hi Robin,
You need to take your temperature readings at the sensor tip where it is sited on the evaporator plate and check your resistance, your issue is either the sensor at fault or the board not recognising it is connected to it, this can be the only two reasons for the fault indication F2. In fault mode the unit cycles between 30 minutes on to 30 minutes off.Hi Robin, you state temperatures of -0.75 and +2.36 on plate when taking resistance but then post readings at higher temperatures.
A reading at +5c should be 11.9 Ohms, at 0c it is 15.3 Ohms, you got a reading of 5c at 15.44 Ohms, allowing for a slight rise during testing I suspect the sensor is fine, however the board is telling us something different, in that the sensor is not being located by the board or not making a good connection or is indeed failing.The resistance gets higher the colder the sensor is reading, for instance the resistance in Ohm at +20c is 5.9 at +15c its 7.3
Hi Robin,
You got the right part, I know the sensor cable on that version is foamed into the wall, the repair is to cut off the old sensor, fit the new sensor in the metal pocket on the evaporator plate and feed the new sensor cable out the cabinet via the refrigeration pipe entry hole and re join it to the old sensor cable at the rear of the unit, this is to prevent the join from getting wet and malfunctioning, an F2 fault indication is always down to the sensor having failed or a poor connection/join.
