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I have similar but it fills and drain, when you quickly open the door, you can see the water spout from the airlock chamber and it stops. I can’t locate pressure switch, I am rather annoyed that I can’t seem to feel it or locate it. What is worse that the dishwasher is less than 6 months old and the owner didn’t register the machine (I supplied the dishwasher, installed it and told the customer to register).
I have similar experience with this dishwasher and it is a mystery.
I find that isolating from the mains sometimes solves this or even replacing the drain pump and flow meter reed. I don’t know if the heat exchanger drain valve is the cause so it is a case of parts bingo. One of them will cure it.
I don’t think the service manual would help me in this case as the fascia display panel isn’t responding at all and it all lights up and being garbled.
Although the service manual would be great if you can resend it and I will make sure I store it safely.
looking at fascia panel diagram ref 1563, Aswo part number 2992401801 – would this be the one that can solve this strange fault?
many thanks
MattI knew you sent me the manual, just a case of me needing to locate it. It’s good to have a reference point to find in the files. Thank you
No fault codes.
with regards to termination, it ended the cycle as it has completed.
I need to return to the job to get some perspective but with heat pump dryer it takes so long to get it up to full pelt.
Turns out that a squeeze of air pressure tube seems to resolve it and isolate from the mains for 10-15 mins as well. Unless I am mistaken, does the model have integrated pressure sensor on the module behind the fascia which is appears to be the case from my observation, I have not been able to confirm this on the parts list?
baron wrote:
Do 220V appear on transformer? Can you select other program without microwave function? Does he works?
First of all check in settings that isn’t in “DEMO” inside “Settings – Showroom programme” …set NOI am not aware of demo setting, but that is good to be aware of. As far I am aware that the oven works but no action on microwave. Says that you press start, nothing happens. I have a feeling that it is more likely to be either internal fuse or magnetron or relay switches on the board.
electrofix wrote: disconnect mag
you should get very low ohm reading on the 2 terminals both across the wires you removed and the mag thats the heater circuit
hig voltage output lead from the transformer. you should get a reading from there to earth. reading does not matter unless its meg ohms
across the cap you should see the display count down or up but it should not be short
has it got a high voltage fuse ?
if yes and its ok you can rule out shorts on the high voltage side
Dave
Thanks Dave, feeling more empowered now… just few more things…
The primary and secondary leads obviously two goes out and two goes in, both wires should have low continuity resistance?
The high voltage output lead from transformer to earth, I presume you meant earth leak test?
The capacitor is easy as I have the device that test it very quickly, it’s good reading.
With having understood, all this to be completely disconnected prior to testing so that I don’t fry myself and the oven.
Thank you for taking the time to go through the steps. Good to be refreshed, still I would like numbers on readings on which part on the transformer.
I will contact customer and start again and test everything.
I have contacted Magsells and they have a transformer for me should I require it. All of this rest on numbers…
Matt
electrofix wrote: ok how much do you know about how the sytem works
do you understand the heater and the high voltage circuit and how it operates along with the safety proceedures to be able to work safely ?
Dave
I can work with the safety procedures to work safely. I am fully aware of it. I am aware of the heating elements on the microwave and didn’t think it is directly related to non working microwave.
So what I have done so far on the microwave, I have tested the internal fuse, capacitor, transformer (though I am confused on the result), magnetron did show signs of overheating due to discolouration. I would have posted the image up here but it would not let me due to the file size being too large.
i do know from AEG combi microwave that power module fails due to bad earth leak on heating elements. I would be surprised to see this on a Miele. I am more than happy to reeducated. Thank you for asking to check.
electrofix wrote:ok you dont have to order a miele mag
i use magsells
https://magsells.co.uk/ring them up as online prices are higher as most common mags are under £50 delivered
ok did you check mag to earth ?
did you check for bad contacts on the heater circuit ?
Dave
Re: Mag to earth – no I didn’t for the reason being it is hard wired that I wasn’t able to do this in situ. I guess I can revisit and check again to be sure especially with contacts on heaters and earth leakage.
A local engineer who doesn’t tread on my patch kindly gave me wiring harness off a redundant 2016 model. To be fair, he buys spare parts off from me as I have a multiple sources. I am pleased to report that I have fixed it. It is good to know that the sensor lead goes to the board and share the multiplug with magnetic door sensor, very fiddly that was!
Mark Flint wrote:I have exactly the same issue as described in the post below (on this forum). Unfortunately there was no resolution reported in that thread. The original poster was twicknix.
I’m going to post the exact message from the old thread:
If Matt is still around I wonder if he can remember the outcome, or has anyone else since figured this out on a Toledo 90?
Gosh! This takes me back a while, you know Covid happened since then! I think I was stumped as much as you are so I simply mentioned on type of pans being used and left it there. Not heard anything since so maybe she took my advice?
