Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: Hotpoint WF320P – Drum bearings – be aware…
I have been caught out again with the sizes of the bearings today on a different machine WF000P!
Again the supplier is having me on, I followed the advice to change the bearings from 30mm to 35mm along with changing the spider. The original spider and bearings were shot so that leaves with the rear half tub in a usable state providing it is fitted with new bearings or so I thought.
I do not know if I am being naive, that I assumed the 35mm bearing kits will fit easily onto the rear half tub with the old 30mm taken out. Oddly enough the new bearings does not fit as it is too big! Connect website implies that it would fit. Masterpart website seems to offer the two sizes types but they appear to be out of stock and when they get some more is anyone guess.
What really annoys me that the machine was only 2 years old and the likely solution is to replace the entire rear half tub and spider or condemn the £300 machine.
I did my research, explored the options and double check that I was doing it correctly but clearly I was wrong for the second time!
Any advice or suggestion that I may have overlooked?
Re: WML520P – Unable to open the door
My thoughts exactly.
I guess the only way to find out is to change the door interlock.
Initially the owner had a blocked drain pipe outside, it was backfilling via the sink and overflowed onto the kitchen floor.
I wonder if the drain pump was timed out and stopped the cycle, or that the owner panic by pulling the plug out of the machine to stop it caused it to malfunction. I could not interrogate the owner to find out what happened.
I will oder the new interlock and pray that it would solve the problem.
Re: Indesit IS60V (vented) – Rear drum bearing worn
Thanks guys.
Masterpart sells the shaft kits for around £10 plus postage. (MDA1703080)
I dropped the quotation round. She already ordered a new tumble dryer with extended warranty. No skin off my nose.
I will get her old machine so I can do it up just for the fun of it and keep it for myself!
Re: Zanussi ZDT 5053 – Dishwasher
I completed the job by replacing the control board. It’s a complete unit (I thought it was separate). Rather tricky to remove it, it was a case of unclipping the side and push it downward.
Apparently it is common problem so I have been told by my client who owns two of them in their flats he rent it out.
Re: Bosch WVF2402GB/01 (washer dryer door seal)
Update on what I did to the machine…
I removed the front panel with ease by removing two screws on the bottom, a bit stiff to lift it off – a gentle nudge will shift it.
I removed the dryer heater unit as it improve access when putting door seal on. I knew there’s a reason why I took it off! Believe me it is much easier to remove it.
Put fairy liquid on the rubber seal and push it on then put the clamp on. Then put heater unit brackets back on the door seal and refitted the heater unit. The rest are straight forward.
The client caused a lot of damage to the machine by putting a fan heater in front of it to stop it from being frozen (the machine was in the outhouse), it melted the door frame, slightly damaged the door seal due to excessive heat, door interlock was faulty. I replaced the door frame trim and door interlock.
A real learning experience – simple to do it if you know how.
Re: Bosch WVF2402GB/01 (washer dryer door seal)
Me either! I am not sure why I did not remove it in the first place though I had considered it. Seems like a good idea to remove the heater at the time. First few days back at work after the long christmas break and recovering from the flu can get my brain all muddled up.
Lesson learnt!
Thanks for the tip mate. Will keep you posted…
Re: Bosch WVF2402GB/01 (washer dryer door seal)
I know that there two screws on bottom of front panel to remove the front.
Are there any other clips or screws I need to be aware of before I can remove the panel?
Do the top plastic control panel need to be moved or can it stay it the place?
Re: Bosch WVF2402GB/01 (washer dryer door seal)
I removed the dryer heater to enable me to slot the seal in place and put the seal clamp on as well. Very limited space not to mention very tight.
Will try take front panel off and see if this helps.
Barrel clamp – what is it?
Re: Bosch WVF2402GB/01 (washer dryer door seal)
thanks for moving it to the right slot. I get muddled up.
Re: Zanussi ZDT 5053 – Dishwasher
Yes I have, checked the fuse and switches and there is power going to the dishwasher. It’s a built in dishwasher, it’s awkward to take it apart without all the palaver.
Re: Zanussi ZDT 5053 – Dishwasher
The same dishwasher developed the same fault again as DOA. I replaced the door switch and still DOA.
The machine won’t respond to anything, no lights, etc. It was working before then it got temperamental as a result I suspect the tenant got frustrated and slammed the door which resulted a broken door catch. Having replaced the door catch, it kinds of rules out the faulty door switch.
I am left thinking that a circuit board could be to blame. Would it be wise to replace the control board (the power switch unit) and PCB unit as it comes as two separate? I could not really pin down the problem with the fault although I do know that there are power coming through.
What are other engineer’s experiences on that?
Re: Haier Dishwasher DW45Bi
JTM and D&G agents have accounts with Haier? Is this because they do warranty work?
Re: Zanussi ZDT 5053 – Dishwasher
will bear this in mind on the door switch, like I said it is performing well, when you open the door, it stopped as it was supposed to do and restarts when you close it.
The on/off button is not like the usual push in to turn on and push in out for off. It works like a keyboard button. I do not know the correct technical name for this kind of button.
Re: whirlpool awo/d4705.DEAD
thanks guys,
I found the component on the module board. Feeling rather chuffed until I discovered the price of the replacement board.
I nearly gave my client a heart attack, Connect charges @£180 and Masterpart charges @£150 then I have to add my fees. He pleaded pity so I assured him that he would be better to get a new machine and get rid of the broken one. Poor bloke asked for advice on what machine to buy, he’s asking the wrong guy! I need broken machines to keep me in job.
I went away feeling rather annoyed that how can a simple component can cost a mere 50p to replace. Sadly I am limited by my knowledge of on repairing electronic board. Think I better start enrolling on college course in case I come across similar job. Other thoughts…
had anyone tried using EMW to repair the board? Still that would be cost effective? Just that I like to see if I could have done it a different way.
Comments would be great guys.
