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Hollytree_Technical wrote:The pressure switch in these is NOT used for overfill but as a saftey device for the heater control system, I have had several similar machines where the air trap has become blocked, I have usually managed to clear the air trap by blowing through it when there is water in the machine.
Here is a couple of excerpts from a service manual for you:
Hope that helps
Jem
Thanks Jem,
That’s a great help.matrixresonator wrote:[TABLE=”class: table table-borderless table-condensed”]
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[TD][Error code F05. LED1 is on, LED2 is off, LED3 is on and LED4 is off]. Pressure switch related issues. [/TD]
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[/TABLE]This machine has a digital display that shows the F05 fault.
There’s a reed switch that monitors the water input. I assumed the pressure switch was for overfill protection.
Could this fault also relate to the reed switch?
Does the pressure switch actuate on machine full or overfill?electrofix wrote:hopefully thats the answer
time will tell
DaveHaving replaced the base element and door seal 6 months ago, it’s gone yet again.
The door seal is broken in the centre with another slight split to the left. The rubber isn’t hard and brittle like the last time.
I can’t see any reason for this breaking again so wonder if it’s something the user is doing.
Very reluctant to replace it again as I can’t see it lasting more than another 6 months.
matrixresonator wrote:Those newer style pumps fire up momentarily a few times before running fully, wonder if they’re checking for drainage and stopping if nothing is detected?
I guess that’s possible but when the pump fires up, it appears to push a reasonable volume of water out OK. You can hear the water in the sink waste (which has also been checked for blockages).
matrixresonator wrote:Had a similar problem a few weeks ago, behind the left panel where the water tank is the drain hose connects. I removed this and using a wet vacuum sucked through the drain hose, then through the chamber and it sorted it. Presume there was some bit of debris in there stopping it drain.
If there is a blockage in the drain system, does the pump react like above or does it continue to try and pump?
I’ve had a few of these where the front section of the impellor becomes detached. I couldn’t see or feel it through the inlet. Check for a blockage first, if you can’t find anything it’s likely to be the impellor.
Replaced the element today, found the replacement is about 30mm shorter (without taking the distortion into account) bringing the element further away from the front panel reducing.
electrofix wrote:This is the unit with an upper and lower element. Think the unit may be made by Samsung
since the oven uses upper and lower elements could the lower one distort and overheat the seal ?
DaveThaks Dave, that looks like a good shout.
The element was distorted and touching the front panel of the oven. I’m surprised there were no clips to hold the element i place like most other makes. That’s what you get when you buy cheap!electrofix wrote:This is the unit with an upper and lower element. Think the unit may be made by Samsung
since the oven uses upper and lower elements could the lower one distort and overheat the seal ?
Dave
I hadn’t considered that. Worth another look.
Thanks.Unfortunately, I don’t know if the burnt area of worktop adjacent to the ring was already burnt or not.
The user said she had removed the pan. I think this is likely otherwise the glass would not have scattered in all directions. I suspect the user left the ring on (although she denies this), this would account for the scorch marks on the worktop caused by the shards of glass. Had she turned the hob off before removing the pan, I doubt it would have been hot enough to scorch.
As you say, I’ll never find out what happened. Fortunately, I did explain to the agent there’s a good chance I wouldn’t be able say for sure or prove what had cause this and at best it would only be an opinion.
electrofix wrote:have you checked the aperture size it was fitted into. the front look butt up to the work surface if the back is the same then expansion may have done it
DaveThe dimensions of the cut-out are 490 x 562 matching the installation requirements.
electrofix wrote:
is the pan suitable for a ceramic hob ?
DaveThe pan that “was in use at the time” looks like it’s ceramic hob compatible. The had another saucepan in the kitchen that wouldn’t be suitable as the base is convex.
If it was caused by an incorrect pan, would the glass have spread so far round the kitchen?
