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Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:the outer holes look too big to hold the pin , Are they ?
DaveI tried the pin before fitting and it felt OK.
I couldn’t feel any movement between the damper and tub after fitting.Twoten
ParticipantJust an update.
I went armed with my 13mm wobbly drill bit as suggested by Dave
I drilled the centre of the peg out and found the peg is a male and female system that locates together as the tub is assembled. This means that after drilling the front of the peg out, the remaining peg can not be punched through a hole in the back, you would have to drill all the way through both brackets which, unless you have an extra long drill bit, you can’t drill straight enough as the drill chuck catches the tub.
Unlike the one in the image, this tub has a second set of holes adjacent to the original damper fixings.
In the end, I felt it would be better to utilise the spare holes for the new dampers. It appeared to be OK on testing.
In the photo, the R/H hole is the drilled hole, and the L/H one is the spare which I’ve used.
Note: The spare holes look like they’re in the same position as the original holes as in Dave’s pictures
If this works, I think it would be far easier to cut the peg on the inside of the supports with a small bladed Multi-tool.Twoten
Participantkaibart wrote:Is this a new machine?
The machine was purchased Feb 21 so 2 months out of guarantee.
Twoten
Participantkaibart wrote:Yes you drill them out and fit the suspension peg that is supplied
Thanks for the info Kaibart,
Why do BSH no longer supply the tech sheet if this is necessary? They usually supply info even when something is obvious.
On earlier models it came in kit form with instructions giving drill size, strengthening plates plus nuts and bolts.
On this machine, I couldn’t see a centre point in the moulding to drill, so thought it might be a bit hit & miss to drill accurately. This is why I thought the spare holes on either side of the original dampers might be used instead.
Any idea what size drill is required to drill these out?Twoten
ParticipantMotor and wiring checked out OK.
Replaced DC Board which resolved the problem.
Thanks for the help.Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:sorted
Dave
Thanks Dave,
I did try and bell out the wiring loom but as the wires don’t go to a specific motor plug it was difficult to know what was connected to where. This will make it a lot easier to check.Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote: ok if dc board looks ok check wiring to motor
just like you were able to see field coil, tacho and armature reading with a meter at the motor terminals you should be able to get the same readings from the other end of the cable. have had the odd wire break at the motor plug over the years
can get a diagram if you need one
Dave
A diagram would be handy, thanks.
Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote: a lot of them have a small board. top of the machine hanging on a plastic frame. only about 4 inches square with one plug on it
check that baord for damage / bad solder joints etc
DaveI think it’s the DC board. I couldn’t see any damage or dry joints.
Twoten
Participantkwatt wrote:It’s an odd brush that, three motors listed and of course the one with bugger all info on it or images is probably the one you’ve got there.
K.
Yep, that’s the one.
Twoten
Participantkwatt wrote:They look like Ceset carbons, Haier Ceset ones usually found in Candy’s etc, here:
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/f281409as-compatible-washing-machine-carbon-brushes
K.
Thanks Ken,
They’re very close, but slightly shorter than the original which prevents the brush from sitting far enough forward to locate on the fixing pins.Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:looked at Beko tech and they dont list a brush
there are 3 part numbers listed for the motor
28265201002850310100
2838520100
the only 2 i can find pics of use the common car140 and the brush I listed above. Even in the disassembly manual it shows a motor with car 140
This machine is the chinese built machine
dont think you can get them as far as i can see quickly
think this is the motor type
https://www.blombergparts.co.uk/moto…ery=GJ-2UA022AAll I can think is try to find and replace just the carbon from another brush
Dave
[USER=”2″]kwatt[/USER] have you any idea K
That’s the motor.
Twoten
Participantelectrofix wrote:as stated cant see your pic but
the only oddball brush from Beko i can think of is
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/washing-machine-carbon-brush-set
also available from aswo but beware they are sold in 1’s
Dave
Can you see the photos via this link?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/eKEpQT4EiatfGzjYATwoten
Participantwashingmachinewoman wrote:Your photo is not showing
Pasting the photo obviously doesn’t work. I can see it though.
February 9, 2023 at 9:22 am in reply to: Siemens CN633GBS1B Combi Microwave cuts out after several minutes. #485718Twoten
ParticipantHollytree_Technical wrote:Have you checked the insulation resistance of the elements?
I have a Bosch one on the go with the same symptoms so just before christmas I disconnected the cooker elements as both were low (but not a fail) on the insulation resistance and it has apparently been running fine since then.
Jem
Insulation on the grill element was 24M’Ohm, do you think that would be enough to cause this?
Twoten
ParticipantJust an update on this thread.
Cleared pressure chamber by flushing with a large syringe and tested.
Problem solved.
Thanks again. -
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