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wizard
ParticipantRe: Siemens Sikafrost KK29U00 fridge freezer
Hi Miro. Do yourself a favour and turn the whole machine off for 48 hours so that it can properly defrost. The fault you’ve got is that the frost free function cannot cope with the ice build up you’ve got. The only way to rectify it is a manual defrost, do not scrape the ice, just turn it off. You may want to put a towel in the freezer whilst it’s off to soak up any water. Once you’ve left it off for 48 hrs, dry it out completely & switch on. Within about 12 hours it should be back to temperature. If its not then call an engineer.
ps there are no thermostats in this appliance, temp regulation is done with sensors.
pps the the fd number you’ve given must be wrong as it would mean your fridge was built in May 1944. I think the Germans were busy building bombs & planes then, not fridges !April 16, 2009 at 8:56 pm in reply to: Whirlpool American F/F not cooling properly – please help! #283318wizard
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool American F/F not cooling properly – please hel
Sometimes frost free machines like yours get choked with ice in the freezer compartment impeding cold airflow (you won’t be able to see it because it will be behind the inside rear panel in the freezer) Excessive heat around the doors is an indication that the compressor is running flat out trying to reach temperature, as pipework from the compressor is run around the doors to stop condensation. The first part of the machine to suffer is the fridge, as cold air is blown from the freezer to cool the fridge. The solution is very simple. Switch off the machine completely for 48 hours. Any less time will not allow for all ice build up to melt. You may want to put a towel in the freezer to soak up any water. Switch machine back on and give it approx 12 hours to settle to a normal running temperature. Remember that nothing happens fast with refrigeration, so you must be patient ! This should cure the problem, however if it then re-occurs within a month or so it would suggest that a defost heater is faulty so call an engineer. I get lots of phone calls for frost free faults exactly like this and normally only get called back by the customer to say thanks machine now fine. Good Luck.
wizard
ParticipantRe: diplomat integrated dw ADP8352
Thanks for replies, no water in base so not a flood alarm. I’m with Penguin on this, I think the pump relay is sticking on during fill. PCB now on order. Ta.
wizard
ParticipantRe: caple wmi 1012 code e04
Thanks penguin, been on the phone for an hour trying to find out who built it & it appears to be a smeg. Servast of course will not give me any info !!! Ha Ha.
wizard
ParticipantRe: Bosch fridge freezer – ENr KGV3 120GB/01
The most common fault on these particular machines is the failure of the fridge NTC, which is a non replaceable foamed in one. However, if this is the one that is causing the problem Bosch have recently released a modification kit which takes this NTC out of circuit & makes the electronics run in an emergency mode. I’ve fitted a couple of these now with great success – Saves sending the appliance to the local fridge mountain !
Kit is available from BSH Appliance Care 08705 543210, part no. 491415 & if I remember correctly it’s about £12.Wizard
wizard
ParticipantRe: Bosch F/Freezer KGU3201 gb/07
Bassman
If I remember correctly, first switch off the appliance. Then hold down the SUPER button whilst turning on. Keep this held in until the SUPER light has come on and gone off. Release the button and you should have P0 in the right hand display. Now your in test mode. Advance through the test points using the up & down buttons on the right(fridge controls) and activate each test by pressing the SUPER button. I don’t remember which one is the valve activation, but you’ll hear it clonk if it is working. I do remember though that P0 is a full defrost cycle, so I suggest you start with P1.
Unusual though you don’t get a valve problem on these though, they tend normally only to suffer from ice build up in the rear of the freezer, or intermittent fan motor faults.Hope this helps
Wizard
wizard
ParticipantRe: Bosch SPS5462
Sounds like the flood protection on the inlet valve is getting set off. You can check this by listening to the machine when it stops & won’t do anything – if the flood protection has set, you will hear a humming noise coming from the valve. In these slimlines it may be in the machine itself or, as Penguin says, in an ‘aquastop’. This is a grey box on the end of the inlet hose attatched to the tap on your pipework. The reset procedure is, again as Penguin says, to turn off the water supply th the appliance, disconnect the hose to release pressure & reconnect.
However, there is always a reason for this happening. I suggest that you get someone to look at it who knows what they are doing, as they are not an easy machine to work on.
Also please mention, when calling an engineer, that it is a Slimline dishwasher, as many engineers won’t even look at then. You can always post the area you live in on the site & maybe one of us can help you.Wizard
wizard
ParticipantRe: Dyson CR01 Washing machine
kheath wrote:The rumour I heard was that a german manufacturer bought one and installed in their workshop…………..
Can anyone confirm or expand….
kheath As the story goes they installed it & ran it continuously as they were worried about the dent it could make in their sales. It lasted a week before failing, so they called the Dyson man, who arrived & spent several hours scratching his head, ‘cos he hadn’t seen one before. He gave up & ordered parts. Several weeks later he returned with parts & got it working. It lasted another couple of weeks and failed again. German manufacturer was no longer worried about Dyson, so they put it on a shelf in the warehouse, where to my knowledge it still is today !
Wizard
wizard
ParticipantRe: Creda 17076 thermistor wiring
STOP ! Before you go ordering more parts check one thing – the Motor!
It is very common on Creda/ Hotpoint for the yellow Tacho cables to chaff on the end casing of the motor, causing an intermittent short. This crashes the microprocessor, so it sticks in position and it always seems to happen in the heating stage. – Easily rectified with a strategically placed piece of insulting tape !
Regards, Wizardwizard
ParticipantRe: combined washer driers
I must agree with everything said, I tend to talk customers away from Washer Dryers. Those that have already got one will normally admit to hardly using the dryer because it takes to long. If there is any possibility of putting a dryer somewhere else then do it, even if its only a 3kg model (which are very small). If you must buy one then Bosch is the only option in my opinion. They produce 2, with a vast difference in price, reflected in the quality of the product. The cheaper WVF model is based on a Spanish Balay machine and is a bit on the noisy side, but better than the Hotpoint /Zanussi etc in function. The other WFT machine is by far the best Washer/Dryer I’ve ever come across & has a flushing function which helps clear fluff from the condenser(a build up of fluff is the most common fault with any Washer/Dryer). The retail price for this machine is about £900 though & you can buy the top of the range Bosch Washing Machine & separate Dryer for that !
wizard
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint WM series Door Trim Kit
Martin
I’ve never had a problem fitting both halves personally, the trick is to fit the glass to the inner door whilst it’s on the floor, fit the outer door to the hinge that’s already fitted to the machine, then ‘mate’ the two halves & snap the whole lot together like a tupperware box ! It should hold together without any screws in it at all. The really fun one to do is the Washer Dryer door, cos it’s got a heat shield in too !
Just to be an anorak, the 1602464 kit was introduced shortly after the beginning of production to overcome a door closing fault, which is why you’re supposed to fit both bits, as there was extra strengthening included which wasn’t included in the early version. Reduction from 5 to 3 screw fixings came later, I presume as a cost cutting measure.
Wizardwizard
ParticipantRe: Smeg dw1 710 e1 Dishwasher
Sorted !! safety stat was OC. Shorted that out & still wouldn’t cancel, so removed the outer door & shorted the cycling stat aswell. Machine made a load of beeps, pumped out & reset !!! So all I’ve got to do now is order a new safety stat. Phew!! What a git ! Thanks for your help lads.
Wizardwizard
ParticipantRe: Smeg dw1 710 e1 Dishwasher
Thanks for looking that up Dave, much appretiated. I’ll try that, but it only started doing it after I tried to cancel the program initially, machine had only been running for 2 mins. I’ll let you know later what occurs. Ta
Wizard
wizard
ParticipantRe: Smeg dw1 710 e1 Dishwasher
Thanks Ken, I remember seeing that one too & I tried that, but it still comes back on with the two leds on & one flashing. – Almost seems like I’ve initiated some sort of self distruct sequence ! Where’s 007 when you need him ? I’d appretiate some info if you can have a look tomorrow AM though, Thanks again.
Wizardwizard
ParticipantRe: Dual Fuel Cookers – Corgi or not?
Thanks for all that chaps. It’s a great shame that CORGI wouldn’t get involved with the site, cos maybe then there wouldn’t be such bad feeling toward them throughout the industry. If only they could realise that if this continues & they insist on making training almost impossible to attend it will eventually filter down to our customers & they’ll no longer purchase gas appliances. – or is this the ultimate aim? People have long memories when it comes to repairs, – lets face it, if there’s nobody to fix it when it goes wrong(most people realise things do eventually) then you won’t buy it in the first place! I think maybe we could do with some help from the manufacturers on this point .( I won’t hold my breath!)
wizard
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