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There are 2 valves. 1 valve lets the water in to fill the machine and is located at the rear of the machine and t`other valve which we are talking about is on the salt pot, part number 1561247204 £83 as the whole salt pot / softener unit i.e. comes with the valve. When the salt pot solenoid gets a live and a neutral the plunger within the valve is triggered open to let the trapped water run through it by gravity from the side water chamber part number 8581170481874 £12.
Why don`t you do this, because changing the soften/salt pot unit is a pain undoing the large plastic nut without the right tool and its an expensive part, first to prove a point: remove the l/h/side cover, put the machine on and choose a programme and watch the machine fill through the side chamber because as it fills there should be water going into another section of the side chamber which should remain trapped there (until such time the solenoid on the salt pot is triggered to let that water go through the salt pot and hence through to the softener crystals). If the trapped water disappears as it is filling the machine up or disappears shortly in a minute then the saltpot unit needs to be changed.
It could be still a salt pot cap which is not listed as coming with the new softener unit (for some daft reason!) so you might want to get that first to try. If you are then sure the softner valve is the culprit then do battle!“Spares prices have been volatile for ages” Not true. Prices were fairly static for many years certainly 2012 up to 2019. Since 2019 spares prices have soared for the reasons I noted. Prices have soared more than is necessary too, but whatever the reason they have still soared.
“All they care about is, can I get what I need, how fast and how much” How dare you demean the British public as mindless uneducated uncaring and unthinking if that wasn`t the case they`d be on streets arms in hand………..although I grant you you might have made a damn good point but purely only by default!very common it`s the heatpump (wash motor combined heater) that fails. Part number 12019637 £95.90 via Bosch`s spares website. So you do not get any confusing cold wash pre rinses, if you set to the quick wash with the soap dispenser with a tablet closed, as soon as you hear the tablet drop with the usual washing/sloshing noise it should then start to heat. If it does not heat it`ll either be the pcb which is not common or the heater part of the wash motor pump that has failed. Test for 15 mins before you make your diagnoses and ignore any bearly luke warm water (if that) as that will be caused by the general movement of water through the pump. There should be various videos on youtube on the subject, like I say it is very common component failure.
Yep, Lg have always had a splitable tank. Lg are one make usually with reasonable spare parts prices but certain parts can suddenly go obsolete least historically. I like Lg but beware of models with rotor motors used on suspended floor- tend to vibrate due, I think, out of balance rotors at high revs. Other machines with a splitable tank are: Haier, Currys Logik, both Chinese and Turkish, Samsung, Bush both Chinese and Turkish, EBAC, some Bosch/Siemens Neff models, some more expensive Miele models, and Vestel made Turkish made machines.
9 different versions of a ZDT21006FA so would need the product code /pnc number which begins with a 9.
Would of thought there are going to be only 3 things that will screw up to cause this 1) the salt pot cap is faulty (which it usually would be) 2) the valve on the salt pot unit (is only available with a complete salt pot unit at about 83 quid) unit receiving voltage 2 lives on both solenoid tags is normal when the valve is not to be operated with the switching to a neutral via the pcb to make the solenoid work when the time comes in the cycle to open. So that looks ok from what you say 3) problem with the water distrubution chamber (l/h/side behind the metal side) could be the problem but usually its internal air break that gets blocked up or part blocked up allowing water via the rear i/let solenoid to go through the matrix very slowly = slow fill, if so it is a fanciful long shot that the “trapped water” might bleed through the salt pot`s valve. The side chamber / resevior is part 8581170481874 and is a surprising 12 quid but will need checking based on the pnc, I just picked a pnc code out at random. Go see Zanussi uk spares.Yes, change the element. Elements can and do fail in several ways visually = from none visual faults, warped rings, splits, hot points. If you change your element for a genuine not pattern part it should then be groovy. Doubt it`ll be the stat. It is quite common that the element starts to heat then takes out the trip.
I will have a look for you today and leave either good news or, as I suspect, bad news because I think it got chucked when I moved house a year ago – if so that is of course bloody typical; but will look for you.
Well had a good look and the result is I cannot find it. I think along with other stuff it all got chucked, sorry, typical!Yes that is the 1000 rpm model fitted with an old world induction motor.Probably leaking from the dispenser to tank hose where it fits to the tank – use glue. From memory your tank was metal enamelled (a dark purple / black tank) which may well have a small rust hole that can be fixed using Quik steel epoxy putty (price 7-10 quid retail) so long as the rust hole is not near either of the 2 damper tank blades. Use corundum paper to scratch the enamel to key the putty, the glass enamel is only about hardness 5 to 6 mohs. As for wiring diagram I had / have (probably had) the Electra Power House version service manual (same machine as was the Eurotec version all made for various other firms by A Merloni – company went bust (as do so many!) years ago. I will have a look for you today and leave either good news or, as I suspect, bad news because I think it got chucked when I moved house a year ago – if so that is of course bloody typical; but will look for you.
As a general guide to parts availability you can still get the 8 tag 1000spin spin pcb (about 30 quid) though it is usually just that large 6.4ish ceramic resistor that fails, the pump, the heater, door handle, the V belt 3ls 465, door lock, the door seal- think on your model it was the one without the spout at 6 o/clock position. And the bearings which could be 6204 6306 and oil seal size 35x62x10. The rear tank seal, as is the tank, is obsolete as far as is known. I think the dispenser / tank hose is obsolete – has yours got a black rubber branch hose that goes to the side of the top rear dispenser???.
If your tank is s/steel rather than enamelled ignore everything as above except the tank suspension mounts potential leak and the ceramic resistor comment.Looks like many of the parts have been mixed up when listed on the trade sites.Am I missing something here? “some evidence of rusting around the housing”- you aint wrong there!!! Via your picture with the motor removed that large worrying patch of rust looks from that angle that the tank has rusted away or in simple English something has either dripped onto the tank or the tank itself now leaking which since you have a base to the machine I presume you have an emergency float switch and so putting two and two together we have: a slight leak, drips onto base, triggers float switch = pumps out water = will not restart (fill) aborts programme or/and some water dripping on the motor surely?
Well not familiar with that particular model and so never changed a belt on one and very little info available so it seems; was hoping for a sales photo of the rear of the machine to see if it a rebadged machine I`ve worked on before but no luck.
On most if not all condenser tumble dryers you attempt to replace a belt from the back. Typically this will mean removing the heater cover screws to gain access to the drum bearing to remove it. With the lid off and right hand side panel off (if looking from the front) you may have to remove the actual rear back screws to allow movement to dangle new belt down passed the back of the drum and drum bearing shaft then over the drum. The golden rule is to avoid dismantling as little as possible. Then moving to the r/h/side refit the belt. Bound to be a jockey pulley – belt tensioner and that will require removal of the fan cover to get to the motor`s shaft pulley. Can`t tell you anymore I`m afraid.“Hmm, bad news is that the spider arm is not available separately and I have to buy a complete drum assembly, which costs 203GBP + VAT. That’s at least half the cost of a new machine..” You meant the complete tank/drum assembly. And yes, at 203 quid plus VAT it is pathetic, typical of the domestic appliance trade, it is ridiculously priced.
Drum spider has cracked in English that means the drum 3 legged aluminium support and shaft (that goes through the bearings) has cracked – common. OR front concrete weight has cracked also common. Sure to be one or t`other or even both!!
Think he is means the blower motor fan since the other one is called a fan motor. So the blower fan will be the back one, part number 00490541 at a mere,…..drum roll…. £209.39. Question is was the single oven cleaned then had the problem after a day/week or is that completely unrelated? When I used to follow a cooker cleaner around (a lot!) it was mostly the element that had split ( it had actually already split but just got cleaning spray in the split or had a hot spot but it is always someone elses fault (“the cooker cleaner caused it” – all the usual customer boll*cks, some are deluded some just plain lie, the more wealthier they appear the more its the latter!) = either went bang or never reached the heat because element was on verge of failure so you might want to double check. Part number 00443526 £29.80.
This is based on the model version HB550550B/01 since you didn`t state the 01 bit.
