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if you remove part 0433 you might, without being too optimistic, see into the wash motor with a mirror if not it`ll be a case of taking the wash motor out, BUT before you do that part 0440 can fail so I suggest you 1) start the machine on a quick wash programme 2) when the wash motor does kick in count to 1 minute then open the door and see how much water has entered 3) get a marker pen and mark with a dot each wash blades and leave them pointing towards the door 4) restart by closing door and listen for a change in tone as parts 0440 hopefully move its disc to send water to top wash blade then the lower as visa versa if you cannot hear a tone change between the two then either the water level is too low so add 2 liters by hand to test, or the disc is caught in no mans land because either its little motor (0441) is u/s or the disc is seized. Could be other reasons too. What you do not want is to dismantle the machine only to find no blockage in the wash motor- the machines are very poor to work on, perhaps designed by a sadist?
So an Electrolux /Zanussi spider`s oil seal hub ring. As a matter of interest / potentially X referencing what was the actual model number of the washing machine though, as you know, internal and external sizes are, and unhelpfully, not usually given.
difficult one. If you are sure that pump is ok and that the sump black rubber hose has no coins nor at the connection with its pump nozzle and that the ping pong ball in the sump hose isn`t yukked up then check the dispenser to tank hose – picture gives impression it acts as a tank unit breather but not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure.
Well the only thing you could do is to change the pressure switch water level sensor and see if it is any better which is probably what the Bosch repair bod would do. The main worry is you call them out for no fault found and get clobbered on a callout charge insurance or not. Bosch`s spares page for your model isn`t working tonight-perhaps it isn`t a full moon?- was going to look up the p/swt part number but no dice.
Could be loads of things based on the info given: Could be the suppressor (could be though hardly that common), possible heater coming on before it had filled (not common), motor even (not common, well not like that), or pump (not common on fill), valve melting (not common that one), pcboard perhaps (not that common, they usually just go pop or do nothing). More likely to be the door lock`s connector block/wires (door lock end) burning due to crappy terminal connections – someone was being a bit optimistic there!….some Indesit models were recalled due to this so go to the indesit website or google “indesit recalls”….. common problem – just google it; had a quick look for you. Your model is not mentioned but take that with a pinch of salt………could still be that problem, had it happen to many machines that are not on the list even with completely different door locks (it is not really the door lock that is the problem but the surface area, for the given current over time, of the connector block terminals..Best have a look yourself first.
Have you got the actual model number AND the first 8 numbers beginning with a 3 as read off the rating label.
“a cheap Calton from curry’s” – God that is going back. The sort of distant past when you could buy a Caravelle brand and Newpol from memory!
“You mention old Bosch dishwashers lasting years” They did, by keeping things fairly simple and using quality parts and designers who were not flogging double glazing the week before. That is how they made their name. All history now as they plumb new depths of stupidity and naffness. AEG SL series were good too. Think you could also get it as a Zanussi and for a time a Hotpoint but might be a DL something or other…..had a ETN timer, I can`t remember too long ago.
“They may not be as efficient and cost a lot but last generations appliances lasted a lot longer”. Welcome to New Improved green appliances….most are utter rubbish and there is very little that is green when they conk out prematurely (and they do) just the same with cr*p Audi cars with “green super low pressure efficient oiling” that screws up the the timing cams and chain and wrecks the engine out of warranty = 7,000 quid repair apparently- and also which idiot put the timing chain at the back of the engine so you have to remove the whole engine to fix the piece of cr*p? Would`ve been better off with a Morris minor (with the gearbox mod) or a Austin Farina A40 hatch back and we all just settle for that: what you lose in greenness is made up by interchangeable parts, easy to work on = on the road for longer = no need to pollute in manufacturing yet more! Do not get me started on Electric cars!Sorry. Looking at the line drawing (so not a photo of the tank unit) the plastic tank is sealed which normally means you would have to cut through the plastic to get the drum and so the spider out though perhaps Hotpoint have redesigned the tank so this is not the case anymore? Anyway, let us know how you get on. Hope you succeed.
So you cut the sealed plastic tank to get at the drum to get at the spider running hub ring which has split – Never had that one before so Hotpoint must be sinking down to even newer depths of quality than ever before. I`m curious to how you are going to rejoin both plastic tank halves back together without a watery disaster? Since it is under a freebee parts warranty you`ve now just given Hotpoint the necessary ammo to void your warranty for the sake of calling them out getting the part for nothing and charging you about £130 which would be a lot cheaper than you buying the tank should you now have to so probably near 200 quid at a guess as it appears to be not listed on their parts website probably because it is so new.
All very odd.PS if you want to go for this stat just order it direct from Zanussi uk apparently it is in stock. Fit the thing and hopefully you should then be cured.
went to Qualtex for you typed in K59L1287 came up with K59-L1287 K59-H1300 = and an electrolux / Zanussi part number 50267507007 @ 33 quid so that X references it for you.They obviously used the same stat on some of their appliances.
Power off. How i used to do it was to just remove the whole front panel which makes life much easier. From memory there are 2 screws behind the instrument panel and 3 screws at the bottom behind the plinth. Remove 2 door lock screws and door seal`s front retaining wire the peel off door seal from front of chassis lip. I think then you press down on the metal front chassis panel to remove panel off plastic side guide clips. Good idea to put a non slip rubber mat or piece of carpet under back feet if you need to tilt machine at an angle agaist a wall incase the blighter slips away from you. Doing this way is easier rather than faffing around with your bonce under the machine and it is easy to make sure the black hose`s clip to pump nozzle is refited properly to save watery surprises!! .
“just installed” Check where the end of the outlet pipe goes-so if plumbed out via a under the sink plumbing nozzle make sure the spout blanking has been cut off OR that there is no bung (usually a light blue plastic bung) where the nozzle is screwed just above the U bend area. Sounds to me like it is not pumping out so when the machine goofs up does the machine still have water in it? What happens if you set the machine on drain / spin only?
Just a thought!
