Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
“The issue is that the fridge temperature measured carefully on middle shelf using a calibrated fridge/freezer thermometer swings quite widely over some hours between 2degC and 10degC on setting 5, there are long periods where the compressor is not heard to be running and so the cabinet is not keeping food at or near 3-4degC _uhh! if the compressor does not run for long periods it`ll get warmer not colder – which is what I want” Most likely the thermostat is duff and has lost part of its liquid in its coil rather than the usual fridge runs forever fault or the doesn`t run at all fault. Bit of a guess since the Liebherr parts site does not recognize your model nor the service number because it does ask for the serial number which you do not give.
Things to check: the ice line relative to the end of the thermostat end of coil “sensor” placement. for example if the iceline ends before the sensor you`ve lost pipe work refrigerant or and a weak compressor.
Does this thing have a fan cooling motor for the condenser? If so does that run?
Printed circuit board……has it really got one?
“If I set the thermostat dial to Max which is No.7 the fridge gets very cold even down to 0.5degC and is better for the food” Could be the t/stat is ok if the unit actually switches off rather than running forever, but the iceline could still be at fault instead.
Did find some t/stats on the Partmaster site where you are very well warned to tread carefully. The Liebherr stat as a Liebherr part is priced at £126.90, an alternative is the Hotpoint version at a gob smacking £384.08 (someone has got a poor sense of humour!) and a Danfoss stat at £47.09 and there maybe others. Take these stat price examples with a pinch of salt as all these examples were just based on a Liebherr Ki1840-22 (one of many with a -?? presume versions) the 0969722.00 means nothing to the site.That`s better, your model number worked this time and no it is not a heat pump model so lucky you.. 5 versions of your model hence request for pnc / product code number to check your parts, I pick one version at random since no pnc code still not given. 159 fan = fan cooling rear= part number 1123341008. 159A = fan front = part number 1254349028. Could also be part 263 at fault = clamping roller (jockey pulley belt tensioner in other words – the centre hole wears out) = part number 8581250125037 up to you to check and up to you to check their site with the correct pnc code as found on the label usually located on the front of the chassis near the door seal. These are the 3 common faults but there could be a few other things. Not much to these mechanically so you should find it easy.
Does anyone happen to know the size of the hex bolt heads which retain the grill elements? They look very small so I’ll need to get another micro bit set.
nuts are 7mm from memory.Probably a Zanussi product as sold by J Lewis and if so the model number you give according to Zanussi / Electrolux website does not exist. Previous post/s by you do not exist either, least I cannot find it/them. And Googling that model gleans zippo too.
Is your tumble dryer a heat pump type? If so it will probably be the rear plastic fan: the motor shaft can go a little rusty which over time causes a lot of side play due to wear which sounds as you describe – in other words the plastic fan is very loose on the shaft. You might want to check that. If so replacing the plastic fan sometimes fix the problem but sometimes for not that long. If no success it is either a new motor and a new fan (that`ll be 4 boxes of Kleenex Tissues for the tears !) or glue a new fan to the shaft with Araldite and pray!
If you come back it is a good idea to recheck the model number and send the product code (prod code or sometimes written as p.c.) as read off the machine`s label, begins with a 9????????/ 00 or a number e.g /03. The product code is very important info that is required.Phil.collins. Is it the same model though? Is it a heat pump dryer? There appear to be be several visually differing motors. So what is your full model number?
You should know that there are several versions based on the commercial code as well as the model number. Since you did not state that, `cause you did not know, I picked one example out at random so with electrical and mechanical parts things might be different between versions rather than just the usual cosmetic differences.
Usually the heater goes duff rather than the pcboard BUT have had it where the heater duffed up the pcb – blown tracks = 2 parts failure. Trouble is the pcboards, least historically-this one might be different- are onsite programmable by Hotpoint / Indesit but machine should be under a 10 year parts warranty. If you have to buy a new pcb do not do that as it might end up being useless to you and you cannot send it back / or without a load of hassle you do not want.Pcb is listed at a depressing 202 quid on Hotpoint`s parts website!
Its an Indesit model number not a Candy!
Best bet is to turn power off, whip the lid off, pull both wires off the dryer heater AND PUT TAPE around each separate terminal tag to isolate them apart- woe betide if the bare tags touch something that they should not = bang!, then turn on to dry and see if water then comes into machine****. If it water now doesn`t you need a new dryer element to cure the problem. If no difference the main pcb has snuffed it which is more common- Indesit only changeable due to having to be programmed on site. Should be under a 10 year parts warranty especially if you registered the purchase which I hope you did. Think their labour is 139 quid now which is still cheaper than a new board however a 139 quid bill is still quite depressing.
You should know that for a couple of seconds the water valve is triggered anyway so hope you know that but never-the-less the flashing lights business is a fault code.
**** note if water comes into the machine via the dryer section of the valve “cluster” so presume you mean the valve is triggered and fills as though it is on a wash /or rinse programme i.e. it gushes in through via the soap box. If it doesn`t gush in through the soap box the dryer valve restricter has detached itself from inside the valve – not unknown but not common in which case you need a new valve. Hope this makes sense.Yes. My 220 quid Statesman`s fridge is 41db but you hardly know its on. The top range LG £7000 is 37db so a 4 db difference. Most fridges are between 35bd (a retro smeg at £1500). A haier at 43db (£549), Curry`s Logik at 39db about 220 quid. For some reason the Miele product fiche does not work so I don`t know – seems odd that but then it is Miele! Even a 149 quid Kenwood is 41db.
Should answer your question.No idea if there is a test programme.
What these things do do is on the heater there are two stats. One with a rest button and the other stat is really a thermistor (but does not look like your normal torpedo styled one. It was pretty common, from memory, that that thermistor stat went to varying degrees to earth which caused the problem you have without taking out the house trip (if you have one). You might want to whip the back plate off the machine (noting the differing screw positions) and test the themistor ideally with a megga. If this is the culprit you cange the heater as one unit. Sure that you cannot buy the thermister by itself! You want to check this first before thinking gambling on a going down the pcboard route.“Searching Zanussi’s website, I see that there is both a “User Control Panel” and a “Configured Electroni….”
“Which would be the one to purchase & replace? Is it a straight forward replacement and can it be done without a Zanussi Engineer having to come out and “re-programme” the board?”
A configured pcboard – the main pcb- part number 973916098489024. Price, a disheartening £165 If you buy this board it is a direct swop over and it should work without requiring a Zanussi engineer. AND
The user interface pcb – part number 8079758226 – does not need configuring/already configured. £98.00.
Your other question as to which pcb or indeed whether it is either pcb that has gone wrong is impossible to answer!**** BUT
Considering the costs involved you might want to check with Zanussi if they are still doing their one charge fixed fee including all parts required otherwise you could easily get caught out because you cannot send pcb`s back if that does not fix the problem. Many pcb`s fail (as a general comment) and visually they look perfect but that is not the case. Zanussi pcb`s are generally reliable hence my doubts it is either of these 2 pcb`s that are at fault.
*****Suggest you have a look at the pump and this part next to the pump all on the left hand side of the machine towards the back as is the heater`s terminal block first: [h=6]Tumble Dryer Float Microswitch[/h] 1366140018
This part can fairly commonly fail but whether it is the actual problem……?
Like so many pcb based machines (pretty well all these days) it is often experience or / and guess work. Trouble is guess work costs you money if you are wrong. Published reliable technical info can be sparse too compounding the problem of sussing it out.
Conclusion: I do not know the answer 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} and since you placed your question 04/12/2023 it looks though no one else does either.
