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Re: Bosch SGS5302GB/07
Hi, Rob, :waving:
The switch on the heater box ONLY shows continuity when the wash pump is running. The pump builds up pressure inside the box and pushes the plunger back to operate the switch. 😉
I’m with Martin on this – PCB soldered joint around the middle of the board regularly blows. Swift solder job sorts it 75{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time. The other 25{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} = new PCB. Cheapest to buy it direct from BSH with trade discount – Connect are way too expensive……..!!!HTH,
Steve.
Re: Indesit D61 dishwasher hose.
That’s showing as obsolete, Chris – and they’re not supplied with the new motors either………no surprises there!! 👿
What about Haier machines? They use the same motors; all I need now is a model number. 😕Thanks,
Steve.
Re: Not to be missed – Febuary meeting.
Lawrence is so right; but it’s a shame Connect are’nt attending – if anyone needs to be squeezed for discount it’s them……… 😈
Steve.
Re: ISE 2 and 5 failure rates
Don’t use the one Connect supply – cream coloured Metalflex interlock. I fitted one to an ISE 2 and the door was jammed shut. I eventually had to smash the interlock to get the door open. 👿
Fitted a new one supplied by ISE – perfect!!Steve.
Re: UKW & WTA Meeting 20th February 2009
I’ll be there but not staying over this time. Looking forward to it!!
Steve.
Re: aeg washer dryer
E40 family of fault codes are door interlock related codes. Look for the following:-
1) Interlock faulty;
2) Wiring faulty;
3) PCB faulty – Although it is worth removing and refitting the PCB connection plugs as oxidisation of the PCB edge connectors is a common fault. Removing and refitting is enough to scrape the connections clean. If that doesn’t cure it, then the power triac for the interlock will be faulty meaning, unfortunately, a new PCB.Hope that helps,
Steve.
Re: Whirlpool toploader lid doesnt click/start
The lid switch should be located at the back left side of the machine under the fascia. It is secured by a plastic tang that clips the switch assembly into the top panel. The tang breaks and the switch can move in its location enough to throw the whole linkage assembly out of adjustment. The switch is costly……part number 481227618484 in stock at Connect @ £33.09 + VAT.
You should be able to fit this switch without removing the cabinet – but for reference, to remove the cabinet:-
Unscrew the fascia and tilt it right back on its straps. Unclip the large spring clips each side, then pull the cabinet towards you and lift away. To refit, push the cabinet in at the bottom and line up the cabinet and back panel. The back panel is the guide for alignment. 😉 When the cabinet is correctly positioned, replace the spring clips. one end tucks up under the slots in the back panel and the clip can then be firmly pressed until it clicks into place.HTH,
Steve.
Re: Hotpoint DF53 heater toc problem.
Well done Mark!!
It was the element down to earth but the fault only showed up when it was hot……… 👿New element fitted……Thanks!!!
Steve.
Re: Hotpoint DF53 heater toc problem.
Thanks, Mark.
I have cleaned the pressure hoses and checked everything I can think of. 😕 I’ve had this problem before and haven’t had a call back after cleaning the sump and resetting the ‘stat. As usual with problem jobs, this machine is right out on the edge of my area; built in and up on blocks in the back kitchen of a chip shop. Lovely greasy floors……… 👿Any other pointers??
Thanks,
Steve.
Re: Hotpoint BWD 129
Did you tighten all the connections when you fitted the new PCB? The connector plugs are flimsy and very fallible on these. I have fixed numerous problems on late Indesit stuff just by tightening the connectors in these plugs.
Worth a go!!
Steve.
Re: Bosch SGS56A72GB/17
More than one type guys…….:wink:
I attended a Bosch machine with no suppressor on the flex mounting plate. Think of the plate with the suppressor removed – then wires from these terminals to a remote suppressor (very similar to a Smeg dishwasher type) fitted into vertical slots at the back of the machine in the middle. Virtually inaccessible behind the heater and hard to spot at first.
To remove the suppressor, locate the release tab on the base in the middle. It is a small square recess which you depress with a terminal screwdriver and with your other hand holding the suppressor wires, wiggle like hell and the suppressor will slide up and out.OR……do it the “Easy way”
Pull the wiring off the suppressor and remove the remote wires. Then fit a generic suppressor from an Indesit (small cylindrical type with 2 wires and an earth lead) and connect it across the terminal block according to the markings on the flex plate. The new unit can then be zip tied to the loom. Leave the old suppressor in place.
Much easier and a ten minute job. I learned the hard way…..1/2 hour and then….. 💡
HTH,
Steve.
Re: Jackson 28203 grill regulator.
Cheers, Chris – I found the same. Obsolete.
Was hoping for a miracle…….. 👿Thanks again,
Steve.
Re: Zanuusi WJS1265W Washer Dryer
I’ve had this problem before – the condenser was badly blocked. The machine would drain out fully, then fault E20. Pump and filter (usual culprits for an E20 fault code) were both clear and working. Pressure chamber was clear as well.
It seemed that enough water was being retained behind the blockage to stop the analogic pressure switch from sensing an empty machine (therefore slowly emptying and refilling the sump causing a time out on drain) thus preventing a spin. Cleaned the condenser and hey presto!! All OK. The analogic pressure switch must be very sensitive……….:?Strange fault….. 😉
Steve.
