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Viewing 15 posts - 1,141 through 1,155 (of 2,140 total)
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  • in reply to: LG WM12397TD motor problems. #273064
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: LG WM12397TD motor problems.

    The new stator sorted it….thanks guys!! 😀

    Steve.

    in reply to: Diplomat APP2110-cooker hood bulbs & fan not working-hel #273427
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Diplomat APP2110-cooker hood bulbs & fan not working

    It’ll be the box at the back of the push button panel. Split the box and the PCB is inside. Blown tracks will be plain to see but with a little patience and a soldering iron you should be able to sort it. The easiest way to remember how it came apart (and therefore how to reassemble it) is to digitally photograph each step of the job. That way you shouldn’t really make any errors.
    As you probably know, MFI have gone bust and spares are scarce ATM. See if you can repair what you have….but if it’s not possible, click “Shop @” in the navigation bar and see if Dave can find one for you.

    Power off before any inspection!! :plug:

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Jackson 28203 grill regulator. #273455
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Jackson 28203 grill regulator.

    Any help on this please?

    Thanks,

    Steve.

    in reply to: The worlds worst kitchen thread! #273591
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: The worlds worst kitchen thread!

    Probably “Farkum Hall” 😆

    Steve.

    One of my customers has that on a plaque outside his door……… 8)

    in reply to: Diplomat APP2110-cooker hood bulbs & fan not working-hel #273425
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Diplomat APP2110-cooker hood bulbs & fan not working

    The lamp probably shorted, so will need replacing. Easy!! BUT…….the short circuit would almost certainly have frazzled the switch bank circuit board. There will usually be one or two tracks blown on the PCB, so the hood will appear dead.
    Now, spares may be a problem with MFI stuff. I have dismantled and repaired these units with a degree of success but they can be a miserable job. :rolls: But it is not impossible. 😉

    Power off if you are to investigate….. :plug:

    Steve.

    in reply to: Hotpoint WF541P flashing lights #273326
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint WF541P flashing lights

    The module is the box at the back as you describe. Your machine is under 5 years old so Hotpoint (Indesit) will do the job for about £99 with the part included. It’s really the only economical way to repair it. I wouldn’t recommend this as a DIY job……..sorry!!

    Steve.

    in reply to: Hoover VHD812/80 door gasket. #273369
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Hoover VHD812/80 door gasket.

    Thanks, Chris!!

    Steve.

    in reply to: re Creda 48339 halogen removing unit #273178
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: re Creda 48339 halogen removing unit

    Three screws down the back edge and three on the front edge of each side panel. (open the oven doors to access the front screws). Then gently ease the sides off from the back of the machine with a screwdriver starting at the bottom. Caution: the panels fall off suddenly – they are sharp and heavy. I always rest my knee at the side so I catch the panel as it comes free.
    Refitting is by pushing the side panel up under the refitted hob and pushing it in at the bottom. Fiddly, but not difficult. 😉

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: A philosophical viewpoint #273232
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: A philosophical viewpoint

    Madmac wrote:
    But then i wondered what our workload would be in the repair caper if all machines were still made this way.. selfish maybe, but hey, its my sole income!
    If memory serves, when these machines were common it would often be 5 years between visits.. not great for business to be quite honest,

    But there was a domestic appliance shop in every precinct and every main street……..and as well as white goods they repaired irons, toasters, kettles, cleaners, hairdriers, standard lamps…….. 😉 Machines had ‘little bits’ that broke regularly – not PCB’ s and motors costing 75{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of a new machine for the part alone. Door catches, knobs, suspension pads, door boots galore, little and often. The customers were less willing to bin their machine for a catch failure. Regular, easy work. 😎
    Making machines that last is good in the long run; but it has to be said, I’ve had more £120+ jobs in the last year than at any time in the past.

    The “Buy it, Boot it, Bin it” culture is a by – product of the credit card but in the current climate, this short term thinking may be the undoing of some and the ruin of others……. 😉

    Steve.

    in reply to: Belling IDW604 Dishwasher #273282
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Belling IDW604 Dishwasher

    It’s an Indesit clone – probably a Haier ……. 🙁
    E3 is heater related fault – either heater itself or the small ‘stat right at the back in the middle of the machine screwed up into the base of the tub. Stat O/C is a common fault. Also check for the door loom chafing on the poorly finished lower panel.

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: re Creda 48339 halogen removing unit #273176
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: re Creda 48339 halogen removing unit

    Take both of the sides off. There are screws along the bottom edge of the hob unit; one either side at the front and one per side at the back. The middle 4 screws each side hold the plate support brackets……don’t remove these until the hob is off and placed on a table. Turn it over (ie. glass side down on a towel to avoid damage). Then you can dismantle the plates with ease and security.
    BTW, the hob unplugs from a multi connector on the left of the hob.

    Power off before any work starts…. :plug:

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Diplomat APL 3201X #273208
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Diplomat APL 3201X

    If it’s a single cavity oven and rated below 3000W then a 13 Amp plug is fine. Double ovens, however, must be hardwired. When both ovens are used at the same time, the current required would far exceed the design limit of a plug and socket.

    Hope that helps,

    Steve.

    in reply to: LG WM12397TD motor problems. #273061
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: LG WM12397TD motor problems.

    Hall sensor? What does that do and what does it look like? 😕
    Stator is around £90 + VAT from Connect; not too bad.

    Thanks,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Diplomat ADP8322 No wash sympton #273036
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Diplomat ADP8322 No wash sympton

    Pressure switch is in the sump on the right. Remove the filter and you will see a black circular “grid” shaped item. Before you condemn it, clean it thoroughly with a toothbrush. They often get gunked up and malfunction.
    It is accessed from underneath and is a twist fit in the sump.

    HTH,

    Steve.

    in reply to: Diplomat ADP8322 No wash sympton #273032
    aqualectric
    Participant

    Re: Diplomat ADP8322 No wash sympton

    It’s a Whirlpool machine. One beep then abort is usually NTC failure.

    Steve.

Viewing 15 posts - 1,141 through 1,155 (of 2,140 total)