bosch-engineer

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 37 total)
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  • in reply to: bosch waq28461gb12 #433030
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: bosch waq28461gb12

    Is the child lock active? If you press the start button & it just bleeps with no other function with the door symbol flashing, the child lock is active. To de-activate, just press & hold the start button for approx 5 seconds until your hear a confirmation bleep. That should unlock it.

    in reply to: Bosch Wvd24520GB/07 drying side cuts out after 3 mins #433104
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Bosch Wvd24520GB/07 drying side cuts out after 3 mins

    It sounds like a blockage in the condenser. Usually a ball of wet fluff stuck at the bottom of the condenser where it is connected to the tank. If it is not that, check the sump hose to see if there are any obstructions around the eco-ball.

    in reply to: Hotpoint Tumble dryer recall #433082
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint Tumble dryer recall

    Any idea what the fix/solution involves?

    in reply to: Neff Dishwasher S54M45X5GB/01 Filling fault #348217
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Neff Dishwasher S54M45X5GB/01 Filling fault

    Its the flow meter (impeller jug).

    in reply to: Bosch SMS50E12GB/01 #347998
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Bosch SMS50E12GB/01

    “e24” relates to a pump out fault (probably an obstruction in the pump) . If the machine is draining ok & the hoses are not kinked, then there is probably an obstruction holding the drain non-return valve open (usually causes an intermittent “e24” fault). The pump can sense water coming back into the sump before the the fill stage & displays “e24”. I use a small pipe cleaning brush to clear the non-return valve without stripping the machine. Just pop off the drain pump cover in the sump & locate the outlet hole. The non-return valve is about an inch or so inside. If you keep getting “e24” & the machine drains ok & the non-return valve is not letting by, then the pump is faulty.

    in reply to: Aqua Stop Hoses #348101
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Aqua Stop Hoses

    The idea of the aqua-stop being mounted vertically is to ensure if there is any leakage from the isolator tap or the rubber seal, the water runs down into the aqua-stop & then into the machine (to shut off the appliance to stop further use & alert the user of a problem/leak). If the aqua-stop is mounted horizontally, any leakage can leak out without the water going down the outer hose & into the machine & therefore not alerting the user of any faults or leakage. It doesn’t make any difference electrically/mechanically which way its mounted, it just effects its intended function. Hope this makes sense.

    in reply to: bosch washer drier WVF240SGB/02 sticking #347861
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: bosch washer drier WVF240SGB/02 sticking

    It sounds like the timer is faulty. I’ve had a few over the years where they only tumble in one direction & when the reverse direction should happen the motor jumps or the spin doesn’t reach full speed & the timer just sticks & doesn’t move on.

    in reply to: Bosch WAE2416SGB/01 #347727
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Bosch WAE2416SGB/01

    It sounds like it was the motor in the first place which blew the original module. Did you trace the tracks which had blown off to see which component they supplied. The fault code you are seeing now indicates a motor fault (motor not tuning). Check to make sure the new carbons you fitted are not sticking in the holders. It may require a new motor or at least a strip down to clean all the carbon build up, which can cause module faults.

    in reply to: Siemens microwave #347640
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Siemens microwave

    If it cuts out after 3 seconds & the 10a pcb fuse is open circuit it is the inverter. If you are very lucky & the 10a pcb fuse is ok, then it is probably the door switches. If it cuts out after 22 seconds, its the magnetron. In short, 3 secs – inverter. 22 secs- magnetron.

    in reply to: Siemens WI14S440GB/27 #347410
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Siemens WI14S440GB/27

    Turn the program knob from the “off” to the 6 o’clock position. Press & hold the spin reduce button whilst turning the program knob one position clockwise. Release the spin reduce button, you are now in the test program. Turn the program knob to the “off” position, this has now reset the module. Although F43 suggests a motor fault, it will also be displayed if the belt has come off as the module detects no load on the motor.

    in reply to: Neff oven..C03? #347352
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Neff oven..C03?

    Yes, very simple to swap the clock. It just clips into the fascia. A ten minute job.

    in reply to: Neff oven..C03? #347349
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Neff oven..C03?

    The clock is knackered. The clock will need replacing.

    in reply to: Bosch slim d/w srs55c02gb/01 #330543
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Bosch slim d/w srs55c02gb/01

    What NomadPaul is refering to is the very new range of BSH dishwashers where the main power module is mounted at the bottom R/H side. The mains lead plugs directly into the power module like a kettle lead, so the suppressor is integral to the power module. As for the missing suppressors, if you find the mains terminal block without a suppressor mounted to it, you will find one mounted to the side of the terminal block on the back of the base (in between the terminal block & inlet valve). Its a bugger to replace due to its location. Sometimes on the parts diagram it is not very clear as to the where-abouts of some of the components.

    in reply to: bosch wae24162gb/03 #329420
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: bosch wae24162gb/03

    Thats the code for no motor action (no tacho signal). Check the motor brushes, they’re probably worn.

    in reply to: Bosch WFR3267GB/04 – Spin Problems? #326334
    bosch-engineer
    Participant

    Re: Bosch WFR3267GB/04 – Spin Problems?

    Yep, done quite a few over the years. Its straight foward to do. Lift the whole tank out of the outer case through the front. You need to remove the front panel & fascia to do this. You need to split the tank & remove the drum. The bearings come as a complete part in the rear half of the tank (unless you can get them out of the casting & source them elsewhere). You also need the fixing kit to re-assemble the tank once you have split it which contains a new tank seal (large “o” ring seal) & the necessary screws to fix the tank back together. The parts are expensive though. We normally use two engineers to lift the tank assy out complete with weights & motor attached & it usually takes us about 1 hour to do. If you are on your own, I would remove the motor & weights before trying to lift the whole tank out, so it will take you longer to do, probably a good couple of hours.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 37 total)