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Re: Whirlpool American Fridge, Water Problem
you’ll probably find the answer in the massive Whirlpool thread here
…sorry but it will take a bit of work on your part if you want to save cash.
(you’ll also know a fair bit more than the average factory engineer who will simply replace boards and assemblies. It’s not cost-effective for them to solder in new components.
Once you have waded through that lot and eliminated all the various KNOWN problems, you’ll either have fixed it OR have a damned good idea of just where it is likely failed….then you can post a much more precise request for help.Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Kevin, If you have repaired your board, you should have no difficulty removing the motor and testing it. (if it’s a brush-motor, brushes can stick)
If it’s seized,that’s a mechanical problem and usual procedures apply to unseize and re-lubricate.
You should NOT test live. a simple resistance-check should confirm if the motor is burnt out or shorted to earth(which would likely burn it out, anyway!)
I find it odd that your engineer could not give a positive diagnosis…(unless this was a time-constrained “free /low-cost diagnosis) -.also, it’s not uncommon for appliances to switch the NEUTRAL…so just because there was a supply,does not indicate the return -path is complete.
you need to be patient, unplug and do a METHODICAL circuit -trace on the circuit concerned..Buying a motor will not be a “magic bullet” if it doesn’t need one!
Re: MFI DIPLOMAT OVEN
To simplify a very complex issue:-
Toughened glass is made by heat-treating”ordinary glass….by this, I do NOT mean “window-glass” !
this heat-treatment makes the “skin” of the glass “shrink”…so it’s tightly stretched over the core of the glass……..all edges ,cutouts and holes have the potential to become “stress-raisers”-normally all sharp edges are eliminated by rounding-over and grinding to a smooth finish, prior to the heat-treatment which toughens it. this is an extremely expensive process to do to a high standard. A toughened door to a top standard, would probably tend to LOSE it’s “toughening” over years of heat/cooling cycles.heating/cooling cycles on an oven, will, IMHO, allow stress-raisers to concentrate the stresses-inevitably the skin will puncture and the “pop” take place.
the continued “activity” noted by previous posters, is simply the larger fragments breaking down to smaller ones
Given the price that people pay for these things, the failure-rate doesn’t appear to be excessive……(bear in mind there are probably in excess of 10 MILLION of these CURRENTLY in use in the UK.
I am NOT trying to justify shoddy manufacture, just trying to point out that people wouldn’t pay for a top-quality product (that’s why there are a lot more Diplomat than Aga around)
people want glass doors….i’m sure you could have a much better one made….but would you pay for it?
my cooker is over 35 years old and has a metal door….NO! I don’t want a glass one.
A friend had a Stoves inner skin “pop”….luckily the chicken was wrapped in foil…..so was OK after the glass was removed from the baking-dish.
On the subject of car-glass,-oddly enough, we’ve gone BACK 60 years!
most screens now are laminated-2 thin layers of glass with a sheet of clear plastic bonded between them…..yes, it does break into “spears” but if the impact is large, the screen pops out of the frame. Unlike toughened screens you do not instantly lose all vision when the glass “goes”Re: NEFF 1031-SP – Grill not working
DO NOT TEST LIVE ❗
You should disconnect the appliance and check the circuit through with a multimeter…..you’ve proved the heater….i’d expect to possibly find an overheat thermalfuse/safety stat and the on/off switch (with /without a working stat or even a “simmerstat” type switch…..but basically it’s likely to be a simple series chain of components……it could even be a wire come off!
does sound as though you’ll need to take it out of the housing, to get access, though.
This is just an opinion, I’m not a professional! 😛
Re: Help With My Hover Nextra6
The important issue……does it actually pump the water away?
From your description, it does! At the end of washing or rinsing cycles,you should hear the pump cut in – the water should drain and you may well hear a groaning/growling noise which starts with a gurgling noise as the last of the water is pulled through the pump…..you should hear the noise alter as the spin starts, because it will be pumping away the water spun from the load.
It is just possible that the level-switch sensor is blocked.
(not likely if it fills to correct level)….board or timer fault would be my guess….but it IS ONLY A GUESS.
Re: SMEG DWF66 – diagnostics
I shorted the wires that connect to it and hey presto! everything else now works fine, so it looks like I’m going to have to buy a soap dispenser.
have put a meter across it and the solenoid is OK and there’s 240v across the wires. I then put the meter across the two wires to test current and there’s none at any point in the cycle (I was expecting it to spike as the program reached the point of opening the door)
So! you ignored all the site safety warnings 😯
As you have done so, you probably realise that the coil appears to have a permanent feed…so-saying, it’s operation would entail switching the Neutral….therefore, far from “spiking” you’d expect a voltage DROP across the load (coil)……but, as you shorted the wires, the full voltage would try to go straight to neutral….the circuit-board would not like this at all.
I may be unduly alarmist here, but PLEASE , NEVER test live appliances, -especially if you really don’t know what you’re doing and haven’t thought things through properly!
My guess…you’ve blown the board (but I hope for the sake of your wallet that i’ve guessed wrongly.
Re: Smeg DWF 1.1 – Unable to start any program
I know nothing about the machine in question, but at that price, I’d be VERY carefully checking the wiring-harness etc.BEFORE ordering a board.
It COULD be a simple fault IE broken/intermittent wire (where a door continually flexes cables, the copper core can break but the plastic insulation is intact, hiding the problem! ) you’ll need a lot of patience to go through it, cleaning accumulated residues as you go…..at least, if it really DOES need a board,it will go into a nice clean machine 😆
Make SURE you CANCEL the order from the (non) supplier – the last thing you want is to be forced to pay for two 😯
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
ELEVEN visits? -that sounds a bit excessive, -but there again, if it’s a general repairer, they’re unlikely to know, or keep, the common breakdown items for every make/model.
Therefore I asume each fault needed a visit for diagnosis, another visit to fit parts ordered as a result of first visit….then a third visit to fit parts ordered as a result of 1 being wrong and 2 not curing the fault! 😥 ….that means , at the least, 3-treble visits and one double!!!!
I’d suggest a letter to the manager /chief engineer,of the warranty company, pointing out their failure to accurately diagnose and rectify the fault and ask that they send a dedicated Whirlpool engineer from the manufacturers own service department……sounds like you have been extremely unlucky and I would suspect another,obscure,underlying fault is continuing to give trouble.
You have an extended warranty in place,I don’t advise you to sidestep the providers, as this is likely to void that warranty.
Re: in-line heater test?
Martin, you’re being too simplistic and not absorbing the info!
to spell it out:-
ESTABLISHED…. relay is marginal, therefore contacts deteriorate rapidlypoor contacts= high resistance =heat
you have now installed a “heat-shunt”
DEDUCED:- relay will still get hot
solder-joint will no longer act as a thermal fuse.
it is highly likely the relay casing/base will meltCONCLUSION……your “temporary repair COULD start a fire /wipe out the circuit-board / kill the heater.
check Maplin /RSWWW.COM /Rapid electronics / do a search on “electronic component suppliers.
You’ve established that , as yet, no irreversible damage has been done….don’t turn it into a writeoff ! Get a relay, sort it properly. 😆
Re: in-line heater test?
Pleased to hear that you worked it out.
It’s likely the increased cross-section of your jumper-wire is a much better heat-shunt than the original printed track.
To put it another way, my guess is that the relay is still showing high resistance/and/or burning of the contact-points.I’d suggest you replace the relay fairly soon!
Re: Hoover HNWF 3135 not drying
Thanks for replies. I was under the assumption it is a resonably simple system and there would not be many things affecting whether the fan motor comes on or not? How many different things can stop it coming on?
In which case, (reasonably simple) you could have checked it.
I’d suggest that it is insulting to any forum(not just this one) to turn up, expect a snap-diagnosis of a problem that you’re too lazy/too overwhelmed to research yourself, then be deprecating about the level of knowledge required.
ANY person posting on this board gets a fair answer,due to the liability laws and greedy peoples’ readiness to use smartass lawyers to sue people attempting to help, poster’s abilities HAVE to be assessed by their keyboard input.I have attempted to rationally explain to you, why I think this is well over your head…..continue to fiddle at your own peril,just make sure you have good life insurance to cover your dependants.
It wasn’t a total waste of time to sign up,- use the “find an engineer” function to find an honest, trustworthy engineer who won’t flog you a fan-motor you probably didn’t need in the first place :rolls:
Re: Hoover HNWF 3135 not drying
Just stop and think about it…… It’s a washer-dryer——how does it “know” when to start drying? what if it started in the middle of a rinse or something? CLUE…. Programmer/timer…..how does it “know” how hot to get….what happens if that bit gets a fault? how does the heat get to the clothes and the moist-air displaced…….well, I guess you already sussed that one……It’s the little fan…..but you jumped to conclusions and just bought a new one without thinking it through first.
THAT’S why a good engineer charges a reasonable rate for his endeavors. He gets the diagnosis right, assesses the most cost-effective way to proceed and uses his skill and experience to execute a repair.
Unfortunately, the professionals can’t wave a magic wand and impart their abilities direct, -so you’ll either have to use some initiative to help yourself………or try the “find an engineer” feature on this page (usually under every post!).
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi, Sharker, (not the “chippy-chat” sharker?)
I’d suggest you take a bit of time and read through the WHOLE of this massive thread.
A professional will just replace the boards….his time is expensive, liability issues if he has to make several attempts to nail the fault(s), mean repairing a board is not worth his while.once you have studied the thread, you’ll know what the issues are,then you will also know how to access the boards and remove them.
Having sussed out a local radio / TV/ electronics repairer, you’ll take the boards to him/her,to replace the faulty components at a fraction of the cost of new boards…..then you’ll refit them, and WITH A BIT OF LUCK you’ll have a working appliance.
that’s the best you can do…..highly unlikely any warranty company would fall for that one(apart from fraud being illegal and immoral!)
that counts as a hybrid C/E fix 😆
Re: Hoover HNWF 3135 not drying
You need to trace the circuit METHODICALLY.
taking wild guesses and scattering replacement parts throughout, just doesn’t work.Trace/test the circuit !
Re: ELECTROLUX Z8240 ERROR CODES
P45 is far more qualified than I’ll ever be, to advise you about this machine, but to clear a popular misconception……electronics don’t need to burn ,to stop working!….certain components can be “zapped” just by touching the board without being “grounded”
The rotating part of a motor is normally called the armature and the bit (usually at one end) where the brushes (spring-loaded carbon blocks)connect the current, is the commutator….this is segmented and each segment can be seen to connect to part of the windings.
It is normal for the “com” to be a shiny brown colour…a frosty appearance is usually an indication that you have worn/sticking brush problems. Where one or more segments have badly burnt edges, indicates burnt-out armature.
The outer casing of the motor will either contain strong magnets or field-coils
The latter form a circuit with the brushes and armature.You will need a test-meter to determine if the motor is faulty, though you could possibly make a continuity -tester with a battery and bulb or LED.
My gut-feeling is that this is beyond your level of experience- no doubt P45 will advise tou if he thinks it’s worth mending, if so, try the “find an engineer” feature on this page.
Sorry I can’t be more positive.
