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Re: in-line heater test?
I am a chartered engineer by profession and fully understand and appreciate what you are saying…
Martin! assuming you are a MICE…I’m astounded that you have not, at that level of study and qualification, had the basic education as to circuit-board design and construction!
I agree wholeheartedly with what you’re saying(which is why I spend time trying to divert stuff from landfill, via this site!)
If you do a bit of research, you’ll be able to source a relay,and assuming you’re NOT just an Academic who doesn’t have any real-life skills….you should be able to do a repair of this nature…..it’s the sort of thing the average 14-year-old keen electronics hobbyist should be able to do in his sleep. 😆
Back in the day, I made do with a tin of “Fluxite” and solid solder and an iron heated on the gas-stove 😆
Re: Neff Cooker
guess the air is circulating up one side and down the other 🙂
try altering the airflow by removing obstructions/altering panels/ plinth sections
by a process of elimination, you should be able to limit it.
Though your kitchen may not “feel” damp, it’s the RELATIVE humidity which matters….warmer the air, the more moisture it holds (sauna? )
as the temp. drops, surplus water precipitates outside, we call it “rain” 😆
Inside, it’s usually a case of warm, humid air striking a colder surface,which chills the air below it’s dew-point and you get condensation.
here endeth the lesson! 8)
Re: ELECTROLUX Z8240 ERROR CODES
Have you consulted the “user manual?….tried the contact-number supplied with the device?
If it’s made in China (PRC) Korea Etc. It’s likely to be of the same status as early post-war “made in hong kong” merchandise…..that is, throw away, not designed for repair , even if you can isolate the fault, no parts available.
OTOH, you may get a pleasant surprise and find service is available, or a return to base repair facility exists (usually they dump yours and send a replacement as “repaired”)
DUCK!…..a pink pig just went over. 😈
Re: tricity bendix cse500x cooker
If we assume you dried it off properly, after washing, then it does seem odd that a severe attack of tinworm (rust) has eaten away this “quality” appliance so quickly.
Although you claim to be “allergic to chemicals” EVERYTHING…and I mean EVERYTHING other than non-physical intangibles, is “chemicals”
yes, even your keyboard and the glass that covers your monitor screen!
Therefore, I assume you have an allergy to “most common cleaning chemical compounds”
Try Bicarbonate of soda (sodium Bicarb) and/or White vinegar….bothare good environmentally friendly cleaners/sterilisers and are food-safe….Vinegar is acid and needs thorough rinsing……..I believe that white vinegar is available at modest prices in Asian food-stores in larger containers.
Re: Info on Diplomat ADP4810?
basic physics:- warm air rises 😉
the units presumably all stand on legs….so there’s a large volume of still air and plenty of gaps to feed that “reservoir2……housing has 2 tall sides which butt against the wall…and as you noted, the cupboards stop about 3” short of the wall-so you have a natural “chimney” up to the oven -hole and you “should” have a similar arrangement with any cupboard above….hot air from the oven, itself, may well vent forward directly above the oven,but if you climb up and feel over the “chimney”above the units, you should get warm air venting…….if the cupboards go right to the ceiling,without a breather-grille or vent to an extractor,etc………..poor installation, IMO……the above is far MORE critical in a gas-installation, as it MUST have a ready supply of air for combustion….and that “burned” air has to vent somewhere!
At it’s basic, an oven is just a box full of hot air (bit like me, really 😆 )
an electric one is far more efficient than a gas one, where it HAS to pass through in order to admit fresh, cold air to be heated and provide oxygen for the flame.Re: DIPLOMAT ADP 1520
Sorry, it’s probably a bit late in the day, but at the bottom of your post (and mine! 😀 is a 2find spare parts” facility……it’s good, fast, top-quality stuff….which means it’s not the cheapest on the ‘net, but IMHO, it’s the best VFM and helps support this Forum 😀
Re: Neff Cooker
This sounds like you have a damp kitchen and the warmed, high -humidity air surrounding the small oven, is chilling and condensing on the larger, colder oven.
you could,- improve air-circulation
keep the whole kitchen warmer
cure the high-humidity problem (buy a dehumidifier)
live with it!.An electric appliance doesn’t “make” water , a cooker is not normally connected to a water supply, so unless you have a nearby pipe leaking, it’s atmospheric condensation.
Re: i have been on this hunt for ages can anyone help
It “should” be possible to run a pipe around the walls, under or behind the units,at reasonable cost………if the units are open-fronted (no plinth), the pipe would need to be clipped to the underside-rear of the units. not implossible but a bit fiddly.
Re: Looking for Reliable Frost Free Upright Freezer.
If you do a search on this forum, you’ll find that the professionals speak very highly of Liebherr….so, I’d put it at the top of your list…….and wait for a better-qualified respondent! 😆
Re: Indesit W161 lamp flash codes
Sorry about that, I’m only relating what I’ve found which is that the relay isn’t stuck. That’s why I did the last post. Thanks for the help, much appreciated.
Has it occurred to you that it “may” have been stuck at the time of “self-diagnosis” and subsequently unstuck before you tested it as OK ?
these are not “industrial” relays….points are likely to get very “splashy” as they burn-out…thus a generalised fault-code……you’d hardly expect the manufacturer to state…”relay knackered”, would you.?…for the cost of one, just listen to Helo. and put one in.
Re: Advice on a narrow machine (between 50-55cm)
If your cabinets are properly fastened to the worktop, either side of the opening, you’ll have an EXTREMELY rigid “box”for the machine……if it jumps around enough to damage the units, the machine’s installation or user-operation is seriously suspect.
Re: Electric motor design question?
MR. BOBOKINES, That, Sir , was a splendid and comprehensive dissertation,from which I learned an awful lot. I’ll have a lot more respect for the humble laminated carbon, in future 😳
Thank you 😀
Re: Zanussi ZWD 1471W Stops and Starts at will
further thought….it could just possibly be a sticking carbon-brush in the motor….though highly unlikely!
Re: Hotpoint SDW60 – trips main circuit breaker
“trips the electric”…..but does it do that IMMEDIATELY ?
I don’t know a lot, but in a warm environment, assuming you left it unplugged and the casing open/off, I would expect it to be fully dried out.
BUT….heaters are notorious for absorbing just enough moisture, when it warms up, the moisture evaporatesfrom the heater-core but condenses on the cold ends, thus tracking enough to “earth” to knock out a trip.
I assume the fuse wasn’t “blown” ?
If it stopped mid -cycle, and it was “just left” to “dry out”…..it WON’T
lay out a couple of towels,edge tucked under the back of the UNPLUGGED
machine….tilt it back…tip to about 45*….if water comes out, it’s got a leak.DO NOT IGNORE IT….the machine could well start working but the soap-residue etc. will rot all the electronics that have already been wetted…..I’d suggest you use the “find an engineer” feature at the bottom…..at least you’ll get an honest answer and you won’t get fleeced.
Re: in-line heater test?
OK, Martin, I’ll bite! 😀
The people who run this board, are highly restricted ,by EC liability rules, the safety police and all the other vested-interest jobsworths…….this means that they have to be very careful with what info. they give you.
OTOH, I am just another keyboard-jockey in cyberspace. You attach as much importance to my output, as your intelligence (or lack thereof,) allows.
I have made several reasonably helpful posts here,over a period of time,the odd one has been removed by the Mod’s if I’ve gone too far…..so, saying all that………
Having been interested in Electronics from about the time when the first commercial transistor radios appeared, I’ve picked up a fair smattering of background knowledge.
The black dust on the board, is the product of ionisation….also seen in TV’s Microwaves, radios etc. It’s the muck floating in the air which is precipitated by the electro-magnetic activity within your machine’s circuitry
Your assumption about the pads/tracks is correct….through-hole continuity is achieved by plating/pins/wires/capilliary-soldering.
(nowadays, it’s not possible to lay-out a board without any tracks crossing, a “simple ” board will have the odd “jumper” of wire, to cross and join. then we have double-sided boards (like yours!) add then multi-layer boardswhich, needless to say , are extremely complex but pack a massive amount of circuitry into a very small space.
To understand the soldering, you should realise that it’s impractical to prepare each individual component, poke it’s tails through the right holes, trim to length,solder them ….repeat until board is fully populated…..NO! machine-placed, chemically -cleaned then “dipped” to a bath of molten solder. SO, YOUR RELAY WAS PROBABLY MACHINE-SOLDERED FROM THE “UNDERSIDE ” OF THE BOARD solder “wicks” up the pin and onto the connecting track on the other side of the board.
Hole and pin-sizes,fit and various other parameters are tightly controlled to ensure the results are consistent and repeatable ,in a commercial production environment,at economic cost.
Given the above info. you “could” argue the relay is under-specced. you “could” argue that a board re-design to accept a different relay, would result in a completely new board(the relay-driver circuit would likely need “beefing -up”
new components to source, machines to reset, jigs to be made, new boards to be printed….PLUS you have to ensure backward-compatibility,for all machines already sold,OR keep making the old one as well, OR hold a stock to last until it’s obsolete.
The fact is, it works, gives a reasonable working life and is cost-effective, GIVEN THE AMOUNT OF CASH THAT YOU,THE BUYER,IS WILLING TO PAY.
If you buy an ISE 10…It’s GUARANTEED 10 years (IIRC)…but it costs at least 3 times more than your Zanussi….IMHO, the ISE is a bargain, but if you’ve only about £300 to spare, you have to buy something that has cost-saving compromises built-in.
As previously posted on this thread, you “can” source and substitute a bigger relay,but it will NOT drop straight into the board…therefore you will have to extend wires from the board pinouts and mount the substitute remotely.
You are wanting to become an electronics engineer in five minutes…the above is an attempt to “open the door” and show you WHY that’s not possible.
If you lack the knowledge ,and are too lazy/unwilling/out of your depth, in acquiring it…pay a professional his due reward to do it for you.
A good small independent TV/Radio/electronics REPAIRER will be able to do it…be prepared to pay about £30….the relay would need to be researched, ordered,posted to him…all his time has to be paid……….here, it’s given freely by the good guys
😆
