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Re: Zanussi ZWD 1471W Stops and Starts at will
I’d guess you’re chasing a “will o’ wisp “……possible causes run from a dry joint on the circuit-board (poor soldering) loose connector, cracked wire(inside insulation, rare but happens) IDC connector not cut through insulation……..
If you have a look…….UNPLUG FIRST AND WAIT AN HOUR.
pull all edge-connectors and replace,(one at a time! )…only you can decide if wiring/board integrity etc. need further investigation.
an intermittent fault is always difficult to find in any sort of mechanical or electrical device…..check the obvious first.
Re: in-line heater test?
NO
I think, if you look carefully, the track at “2 O’clock” finishes ON THAT SIDE OF THE BOARD
The PAD around the relay-pin is likely to be just that…a pad….the TRACK is probably on the other side of the board.bear in mind that the whole concept of a printed circuit, is CHEAPNESS….it’s magnitudes cheaper to print the “wires” on the board, than to cut/strip/wrap loads of individual wires between components….unfortunately, tracks can’t cross over each other…..hence the double-sided board, where a track can be soldered through the board, to wend it’s way across others before re-emerging or just connecting to a component…..but a pad helps ensure the solder wicks through the board and properly completes the connection.
WARNING!!! i’M NOT NECESSARILY CORRECT! 😆
Re: FAGOR – Module and Timer board blown
Phidom, yes I understand that, fully….in the same vein, a friend’s elderly mother has an integrated Electrolux washer-dryer which shed the belt and self-destructed the lower wiring-harness.
although it’s a scabby machine, it wasn’t cheap……..did the math, bought a new belt and mended the wiring…..even if she HAD got a professional in, the cost would still have been far cheaper per wash, than buying a new appliance and possibly repeating the 5-year writeoff. (repair was nearly 2 years ago…OK so far,-bearings/brushes next?? 😆 )
Apart from the economics of repair,- what IS your opinion of Fagor?-can’t say i’ve ever seen one! (there again, i’ve led a sheltered life 😆
Re: FAGOR – Module and Timer board blown
May I suggest again that you use the “find an engineer” function on this site (it’s on this page!) It would be worth it, to get a second opinion.
If you read the reply from “Phidom” carefully, you may infer that the machine is PROBABLY worth repairing.
Quick calc. ….cost of machine , divide by life you’ve had from it = cost per year of ownership.cost of repair? as prpportion of ownership cost?…..I’ll guess that at £150 to repair,you’d probably only need 2 years service to get your money back.
Otherwise, you’ll have to commita LOT for a quality machine……..or buy throwaway crap, with all the attendant hassles….waiting on engineers/parts/arguing wether it’s under warranty or fair wear ‘n tear (chargeable) time out of service……going to launderette…..blowing fuses at inopportune times….maybe flooding the kitchen…….
lots of good reasons to NOT buy cheap….but that can’t guarantee you won’t have trouble with a dear one!.just a bit concerned that your engineer did not give any indication as to what else could be wrong/cost/time to fix/professional opinion of viability of repairing it…..perhaps you should post in general appliance queries? wether to repair or what to replace it with? and ,importantly, your budget!
Re: FAGOR – Module and Timer board blown
If your engineer is paid enough! 😆 I’m sure he’ll be able to check it out!
otherwise, the “find an engineer” function on this site, should help you to locate a reliable,honest and competent person.
Phidom has outlined the parts you need to check,also the incoming mains supressor could have gone….you’ll need a multimeter and the ability to follow a disciplined and logical approach to this…….as a mistake could prove costly, you should consider carefully before stepping outside your “comfort zone”
Re: reset code for a beko wma 665 w
how can the board be gon when it goes through every cycle
Easily!….you have already said that it won’t follow through the cycle, but by prodding various buttons, you can get it to do things.
the board would appear to have a fault……as a rank amateur, I’d guess the EEPROM is dead……that’s the brain that tells each function when it has to operate….and it’s not doing that, is it?Re: what could cause this level of distruction
as that is pretty worrying and im glad my parents were in the house when it did it so the power could be cut as the chance for shorting something out sounds pretty high
yes! that’s what the fuse in the plug is for 😀You’d have to be extremely unlucky to get a shock before the various levels of protection cut in.
I’ve also seen spot-weld failure on a drum…..similar results to a broken spider.
Re: Bosch Exxcel 1200 (WFO2465GB) drum not turning.
😀
It makes it all worthwhile when we hear the outcome! 😉Re: Indesit WG1034T Washing Machine – knocking Sound
Yup! that’s the part! I dodn’t check if that’s the right part for your particular machine… but 😯 😯 58 quid!!!!!!!!
Bloody hell!!!!!! Dick Turpin, at least had the decency to wear a black eyepatch before emptying their wallets 👿
Now, before you get ambitious.
If you could get access from the front, the guys on here would have told you so!
when the spider goes, as you have established, the clothes-drum wobbles around hitting the tub…the heater is inthe gap and, unless it’s recessed, the drum front edge saws a slot in the heater which is now U/S
You will likely find that the drum is RIVETTED to the old spider….you would have to cut/drill/grind away the rivets without damaging the (wafer-thin) Stainless
Oh, and you’ll need stainless bolts/nuts/lockwashers (available in small packs in some sizes from Screwfix, budget £15 or so )then you stil have the bearing/seal kit..
My advice, your’e kicking 5hit uphill with Indesit……if you really want to repair a machine ,for the challenge, pick up a non-working Bosch or Zanussi (Miele are great but parts unobtainable on the open market and would bankrupt you)
off Fleabay… my last Zanussi cost me £15 by the time i’d collected it….fixed the doorlock but it had fried the main board…transistors/capacitors/resistors are not a problem but ONLY they have the EEPROM , without which you’re stymied!research this site, you’ll then know what is a reasonable and repairable machine.
It won’t be labelled Indesit unless it’s already over 20 years old 😛
(in which case all rubber will be perished and unobtainable!Re: Servis Washer M6006 – No Power
I’d concur with lawrence’s comments….have you checked the heater , motorand pump are all OK? no internal shorts? not leaking to earth?
If money’s that tight, consider an older machine which is designed to be mendable, from a charity shop/recycling centre.
Re: Indesit WG1034T Washing Machine – knocking Sound
Jaspal…you will need to get the complete tank-assembly out….remove the motor,door-seal,main drive-pulley etc. then you can take the front off the outer-tank and will probably need a soft-metal (brass or aluminium) drift to knock the main shaft/inner drum through to separate them
….it sounds as though the 3-spoked spider /shaft assembly is permanently fixed to the inner drum and you have to buy the complete assembly.
It would be foolish to reassemble without fitting new bearings and a seal (all comes in a kit)
IMHO, It’s not worth the time/efort/cash on that machine.Re: blomberg wa295 1503as keeps tripping main fuse box
hello, mr/mrs/ms V Kash.
these professionals are just having a natter between themeselves 😆
They’re trying to tell you that the usual suspect is the door-lock , which is @£35 from the spares link on this page…..BUT…….these machines have the tendancy to burn or blow up the circuit-board/timer. If you are able to solder, you can repair “blown ” tracks with a wire-link. If you’re unlucky, it won’t be repairable and a replacement may well be uneconomic……….leastwise, I think that’s the gist of it. 😉if all this is beyond you, use the 2find an engineer” link for an honest and competent repairer who won’t fleece you.
Re: Bosch Exxcel 1200 (WFO2465GB) drum not turning.
If you cannot hear the motor “whirring” on the wash part of the cycle, the brushes are prime suspects.
if the motor DOES whirrand you can spin the drum easily by hand when the machine’s empty, the belt (off or snapped) is likely the culprit.
Turn machine off, WITHDRAW PLUG FROM WALL. pull machine forward and tilt back to rest against wall….DON’T lay it down!hands and knees with a torch and find the motor. brushes are usually locatedat opposite end to belt and are 180 degrees apart (IE- opposite each other.)
usually in a plastic carrier, held to the motor with screws and a wire plugged into each..some designs are held compressed (they’re spring-loaded) and need to be unclipped . straightforward procedure, often easier to take the motor off, change brushes and refit motor..As I’m not familiar with your specific washer, I’d add that some machines have the motor at the top…..usually the lid of the cabinet is held by a hook arrangement and 2 screws (back or sides) remove screws, slide back and lift off.
brushes from the spares link on this site…..super fast delivery and top quality.
my last order was 3pm and delivered 11am the next day! 😀
Re: CREAM COLOURED TALL FREEZER
If it’s absoloutely imperative that you have an appliance in a specific colour, a decent motor-repair body-shop will paint one any colour you like.
you’d need to remind them that the plastics will distort if heated unduly , so normal spraybooth stoving-cycle should be omitted….in practice this will mean the paint (specify 2-pack) will take a couple of days to cure fully.
just as tough and durable as the factory finish…but be prepared to pay(guess £100-200. to colour-change a new one.
