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Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
I’ve had a quick refresher through the RS stock-lists and must admit that their documentation can be a bit patchy….but if you look at the tech. spec. sheet for the product-line, you’ll usually find the measurements,lead pitch and diameter,etc. if this is not on the listing.
Also, some cases are standardised sizes designated by a single letter. you’d have to research this.
really, I was just ribbing you 😀 You’ve done well to go outside your “comfort zone” and carry out a cost-effective repair.
Also worth noting,- you DON’T have to mount the cap on the board! It’s quite in order to extend the leadouts and fit the component elsewhere.
Keep them short and insulated, secure the component with a blob of hot-melt glue or tie-wrap.
leads become important at high voltages/frequencies (RF) not likely to be an issue here! 🙂Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
How did you manage to get all 4 caps in place, mine were too wide and wouldn’t fit, so only changed outer ones. The ordered caps, were wider than the “old blue ones” I was replacing.
Well, if you don’t check the size-specification :rolls: 😆
you’ll probably find a physically smaller item with the same electrical value…but be prepared to pay a premium for miniaturisation.
Don’t leave it to chance! change ALL suspect ones, a failure COULD cost dearly , as many contributors to this thread have found out.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
full online catalogue……be aware that this is a “trade” supplier, as such you will find there are minimum pack-quantities applicable,
RS depots DO have trade-counters,if you take the trouble to look up the part-numbers they will oblige with a cash “courtesy sale” without the necessity to open a trade account.
also to be noted…”plastic” can be of several different qualities, as long as the operating voltage is at least that specified (can be higher,but then size may become an issue) the VALUE MUST BE CORRECT (microfarads/pf/nf)
Quality/price is probably only important to manufacturers where large quantities are involved.
Re: Ikea Nutid 610S (Similar to Whirlpool AKZ511)
warranty should be international(certainly within the E C.
are you the same mac man on Runryder? 🙂
it’s probably a relatively simple thing, but opening it up will invalidate the warranty.
Re: New Hoover ALYX JC3157T
another vote for Dyson over Hoover….shame, really!
just go through your Dyson, SYSTEMATICALLY. start where the dirt gets sucked-up and work your way round the various passages. remember there’s a spring-loaded valve which “dumps” air into the system (check by selecting the flexible hose and putting your hand over the end)……..you should notice the noise change markedly and revert when you remove your hand…..no change would indicate a blockage OR A VACUUM LEAK…
Of course, you checked it’s properly assembled everything clipped together, didn’t you?Re: Ikea Nutid 610S (Similar to Whirlpool AKZ511)
it’ll be under warranty!
possibly a wire has had the insulation “cooked” 9poor manufacture)
not to suggest that ‘s the case here….but don’t fiddle with it, Warranty!
Re: Replacing a Seal on a Siemens Freezer
The fact that a seal is even available, would suggest that it’s not rocket-science to replace it
IMO, first , source your new seal, then ascertain just how the old one comes outsome have a lip to clip it to the door and another to retain the door-liner
others have clips/screws/rivets holding the lineragainst the door with the seal-lip sandwiched between.
generally, if you roll the seal outward from the liner ,to expose it’s edge, you should see how it’s fitted.
In the worst case, you’ve already got a new seal, just use the “find an engineer” function here, to locate someone to do it!
look on fleabay for a commercial chiller….cheaper, more effective ,less environmental damage…and you won’t risk injury by playing with toxic refrigerants!
just to say, that if your model fits the thread, you’ll find full details in the 14 pages!
NOTE! usually, it’s electrolytic capacitors which go “bad” they are usually cylindrical with a rubber or plastic “lid”sealed in one end, with both wires coming out through the seal…typically, one side of the case will have a stripe on it,indicating thepolarity, which MUST be observed.most faults here ,are concerning the SOLID DIELECTRIC CAP’S
(typically Mylar or polyester) they can be cylindrical (sausage) wire from each end, oblong “cushion” or box, disc.
fit any way round….they’re bobbins money, probably less than a tenner to change THE LOT. Otherwise, if it’s beyond your abilities, use the “find an engineer” function on this page…..at least you’ll get an honest and competent repairer!
Re: Help me, please!!!
This is a typical bit of academic hogwash!
I don’t buy any of the company’s products “once or twice a year” (last bought Loctite 3 years ago! )
I don’t associate ANY of the brands with the company!
But the “researchers ” won’t accept this as a valid option, so I couldnt. be bothered lieing to get past page one.
Get real, and ask questions which elicit an ACCURATE response, not the words you /your sponsor WANT to hear! :rolls:
Rattle = things fretting against each other = wear!
whether the catch concerned (or the hinges,doorseal, etc) have a margin of tolerance for this, is debatable.
It’s not what I’d expect in a machine at this price-point!!!
If it’s designed to “float” IMO, it should do -so silently.
Re: Bosch SMS3042GB/03 – no water coming in
😆 It’s great when people DO take the trouble to post the outcome.
I’m glad you managed to find your fault….the fault is common in the car-trade where wiring-looms go into doors from the pillar (though they’re far superior now!.)…….Also , back in the ’60’s the “Ex” had a Bendix washer-dryer,which had a hefty loom between casing and door,-of course, it was ordinary wiring and the cores succumbed to work-hardening, being flexed back and forth every time the door moved . Consequently,as you found, they could part, leaving the insulation intact.
if you were “lucky” the broken ends would arc a bit and the burnt plastic would show where the fault was.
It’s particularly noticeable with the Japanese electronics/electricals, that the strands are extremely fine on their flexible conductors,rendering them far “softer” and less prone to fatigue.
I did the same “fix” as you…it outlived the rest of the machine 😛Re: Indesit WD10 Problems
GOG= Grumpy Old Git 😀
Megger- a test-device which injects a higher than normal voltage to the circuitry under test, indicating the leakage, or lack thereof.
can be used to test any conductor’s insulation from another IE L-N…N-E….L-E
Old ones used to be hand-cranked…unsuspecting victims would hold the clips ,you’d tweak the crank-handle 😈
Really, an Essex boy,been here since’ 76 it’s quite nice, I may stay for a bit.Re: CARRON corden bleu Five de luxe, Gas cooker – door glass
It’ll be “tempered” glass…ground edges and heat-treated 🙁
not impossible, but would need a really good glass company to make one at a viable price.
Someone just MIGHT have one in old stock…..you HAVE tried the “spares” link ?-(here, on the site! drop them an email.Re: new noisy maytag – please help!
It’s what I would expect to hear 😆
(but I’m not a fridge engineer!)
I’d expect to hear the compressor cutting in and out, maybe accompanied by the odd “sigh” or gurgle (blame the new eco-friendly refrigerants!) also,probably, a circulating fan (or 2) running intermittently.The noises should bear a relationship to the displayed temperatures., …..when you open the door, you don’t want to fill the kitchen with a fridge-full of cold air! hence, the cutout.
Wait while the professionals say I’m talking tosh! 😳
