Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: Homark SE4400 Problem
The first thing (and probably wildly inaccurate!) that comes to mind, is perished rubber in the fill-valve and the solenoid is not strong enough to “unstick “it.
unplug if removing panels!
Re: Lost Transit Bolts for LAVAMAT TURBO 16830
yes, padding will restrain the movement…depends how you transport it,as well-I’ve moved loads without restraint, BUT I’ve known where the fragile bits were and kept them uppermost when laying the machine down.—carrying “right way up” shouldn’t present problems at all..
If removing the top, unplug and allow a couple of hours for components to discharge.
Yes! you CAN get a “belt” off an unplugged machine!
Re: Hotpoint WF541 – opening it up?
usually you can release the door-seal gasket and get your hand between the tub and the casing….can’t say if this applies to yours, though.
Always unplug first! switching off does NOT necessarily render it safe. also,switch off first , wait 1/2 hour to allow capacitors to discharge,then unplug and proceed.
If you just pull the plug, leave for a couple of hours before poking inside.
this electrickery can bite 😯
Re: Indesit WD10 Problems
GOG. Don’t just assume that because one place doesn’t stock certain parts, they’re not available!
SHOP AROUND!…Use the spares facility here on the Forum and email a request if your part isn’t listed as “stock”Check the heater resistance, conductor to sheath (either terminal to outer case/bracket)…it should be infinite (ideally, you’d Megger this,but you just got a multimeter)
All tests…UNPLUG APPLIANCE….Isolate the component from the electronics.
finally, if your old machine really IS dead…..DO NOT buy another Indesit!
The badge may be the same, the white box it’s fixed to,is a rubbish-bin.
(a forum search will save you a fortune!
Re: Hotpoint BFI620 Heater Error?
Firstly, bear in mind that i’m NOT a qualified whitegoods engineer
Second, have you eliminated any thermostat/thermistor/cutout/fusible link which may or may not be in circuit?Before jumping to the conclusion that it’s the PCB, you need to follow through the heater-circuit…..invariably, the wash set on the dial, corresponds with a specific temperature required to be” seen” -older machines had several different specific-temp thermoswitches,for this.
I suspect yours may well have a thermistor which the PCB “reads” to check if the temp. required has been reached.
Best wait-on for a more informed opinion, otherwise you’ll throw cash at it to diagnose by a process of elimination.
Most PCB’s are “plug’n play” but some need a bit of soldering.
not a difficult job if you have the basic skills 🙂
Re: Hotpoint BWD 129 Drying When Not Wanted!
I take it that you have actually tested the switch?
It could be that the innards are permanently “switched on”,even though the original cause of your problem was a disconnected harness.
(sounds like the switch should be closed,to hold the power “off”the dryer-cycle)
you need a multimeter or continuity tester to check the switch changes states (open/closed) when you change position on/off.
UNPLUG FIRST! some appliances are LIVE even when switched off 😯Re: Hotpoint BFI620 Heater Error?
” Spares@ ” …see the bottom of the page 😀
Super service (last time, under 20 hours, order to delivery)
top-quality (no chinese knock-offs)Not the cheapest, but certainly the best value, imho.
send ’em an email now 🙂
Re: Diplomat 8242 strange problem
Erm, I’m not a D/w engineer, but i’d hazard a guess that you’re actually operating a LEVEL switch!
machine fills, switch trips….cycle starts 😀
I’d expect to find a flood -switch external to the main chamber,in order to detect water leakage into the casing”sump”
You do, of course, need to rectify the leak. the chemicals (salt, detergent, rinse-aid) do nasty things to the motor-windings, cables, connectors and solenoids.
I’d rinse -off the wetted components, give it 48 hours in a warm place to dry -out, then spray with WD40 before re-installing.
Re: spin dryer rubber bushes?
RSWWW .com may well have something that will do.
they’re on the industrial estate, by the post Office sorting office.
Strictly “trade only” but they’ll do a cash “courtesy-sale” over the counter..play nice and look up the part on-line FIRST.
they stock a big range of silentblocs and isolastics.
Another possible source is an exhaust-centre! literally dozens of different isolastic/metalastik mountings have been used over the years…again, a net-search will find a specialist manufacturer of fittings/kits….that will get you to the components.
Re: Help with purchase
As you’ve had several years’ service out of this machine, it would seem a sensible move to spend a few bob and overhaul it.
Bearings probably need a clean/lube, motor-brushes wear, wheels become wobbly…… all a lot cheaper to repair/replace ,than throwing away a perfectly sound, well-built machine.- Or are you one of those people who change a car because it needs a service,or the ashtray’s full. 😕
Re: Leaking Hotpoint Aquarius Extra WMA35
It could possibly be a worn/torn door-seal.
Just open the door and check carefully.-often there are wrinkles in the folds and they chafe through eventually.
otherwise, I’d suspect the drain-hose UNDER the machine or pipework between the underside of the tank and the drain-pump.
If it’s an oldish machine and you’ve just moved it to a new house, it’s likely these will have been a bit more stressed than normal.
If you were happy with your installer, and don’t feel able to DIY, call him back to repair it. I don’t think it will be excessively expensive! (famous last words.)Re: Samsung J1253 washing machine
£5.00 delivery can you adam and eve that…are they from sherwood forrest samsung? or is it being sent in a teachest?
😆 😆
Penguin and Helo have both given good suggestions…so I’ll add one…If the hole is near the end, just cut that bit off and refit the stopper.
If it’s further in, cut it and push in a “bridge” (a piece of small brass tube (model shop? ) or vinyl tube -same source, or car windscreen-washer tubing-may do the trick.
It’s only a drain and has very little pressure on it,- though you don’t think that when tou pull the filter before draining!
Re: Replace door seal – Zanussi FJS 1225W
In desperation, you could use neat bleach on the rubber,making sure you open the folds back in order to kill the “hidden” mould. (rubber gloves and a saturated dish-cloth work well ! )
you should then rinse the rubber well and probably do a hot,whites wash as your first, following bleaching.
You can also get a “bathroom black mould ” cleaning spray at supermarkets.
Another well known old-fashioned remedy is WHITE VINEGAR (same method as bleaching,but kinder to the rubber and ,of course, needs an empty wash to eliminate the smell of vinegar afterwards.
Once it’s clean, the affresh should keep it that way.
Re: Bosch motor noise
This could possibly be “bearing chatter” or “screech”…caused by dry,worn bearings ,the armature enters a resonant vibration phase….you are unlikely to do “serious”damage ,as it’ has already been done!
(normal wear and tear! )However, if you ignore it, it will get worse and the bearings will collapse or sieze-up
If your skills stretch to it, strip the motor, wash the (ballrace) bearings in petrol, pack 1/4 of the space with general-purpose HMP grease such as Castrol LM. (bearings may be shielded)
It may be possible to use a hypodermic syringe, with a large needle, to inject a bit into the bearings without the stripdown.
Not an ideal solution, but better than ignoring it!….motors are expensive!.
(new bearings are relatively cheap and almost invariably they bear a generic universal size/type code )
I assumed you have checked the motor-brushes and eliminated drum-bearings, also the drain-pump from your list !!!!UNPLUG BEFORE INVESTIGATING! Often, the NEUTRAL is switched,meaning LIVE components,even when switched off.
As you say, hard to diagnose over the net!Re: in-line heater test?
As has already been suggested in this thread, you appear to need a 12vol relay with contacts rated at 10 amps,230volts AC…..unfortunately,it appears that a relay of that spec. will not be a direct substitute,necessitating a board-rework or remote mounting to “kludge” the more robust relay into the circuit.
the alternative, (also already mentioned) is to replace with the highest-rated one you can source,with the same physical pin-layout. At best, a short-term repair as the fault is still there.
Personally I don’t think that is safe. the correctly-rated component is the safe option.
Try RS, Farnell or Rapid (google search should come up with them.)All are specialist suppliers of electronic components and may well refuse to supply to private individuals .
