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Re: Bosch Counter Top Dishwasher draining under gravity
If the float is sticking, it sounds like you haven’t cleaned it properly….you’ll have to be a bit inventive…for example, you could fill a washing-up liquid bottle with water/detergent (or even bleach! solution-inverted and squeezed hard, it will give quite a powerful cleaning -jet.
cotton -buds ,kebab skewers ,bottle-brushes,old toothbrushes…etc. can all be used to clean awkward areas…..if something is sticking, it’s possibly worn or distorted,if it’s not due to “gunge” buildup.
If it’s beyond you, it may be worthwhile using the “find an engineer” feature at the bottom….alternative is to scrap the machine or take a chance on a repairer who might rip you off.
At least you can be sure anyone contacted through here is honest and competent.
Re: Bosch warranty
Just make sure you keep your receipt with the “bumph” for the washer,-that way, you KNOW where it is, should you need “proof of purchase-date”
Re: Diplomat 3650 Only Fan and turbo setting works
karv- I was trying to be diplomatic about the diagnostic abilities of the “engineer”
Just to expand a little
(and bearing in mind I am not familiar with this particular appliance)I base my theory on the probability that the “grill” element also acts as the upper element in the oven…if there’s a fault which has “blown” this circuit, it could still allow the fan and associated element to continue working.
I suggested the “find an engineer” function on this site, because these guys obviously care about the job,know what they’re up to and are not out to “fleece the punters”
Madeofcake. hope you are sorted now!
Re: old Selni motor?
I hear what you’re saying, but the owner has spare time, which the repairer doesn’t . TIG welding with a bit of extra reinforcing, may work.
I’m in full agreement with what you say,-Lucas alternators were fully-repairable in the “old” days (just as well! )-end brackets were frequently broken for the same reasons you gave above, Nowadays, an exchange unit is so cheap, it’s not cost-effective to strip/rebuild…….but a @£200 motor has plenty of latitude to replace an end-bracket!
OK- What about a secondhand motor? Locally, we have a recycler who sells any machine for about £50…one screw or whole machine,same price.
As this is not a the world’s most popular range of machines, I think you’ll struggle….scrapyards are presently turning stuff round in hours ,as opposed to weeks,due to the high price of scrap.
An uphill task, quite honestly. 🙁
Re: Diplomat 3650 Only Fan and turbo setting works
the bang would have been something blowing up (a short-circuit to earth) this would pop the trips.
As the appliance “engineer” found “nothing wrong” there must be a voodoo spell stopping it working 😆I think you should use the “find an engineer” function on this page. or use the email function.
It’s not necessarily the element itself , which is faulty, as often there are overheat-devices,timers, relays ,thermostats………. any of which can cause the element to not function….oh, and the wiring itself can get “tired” and short out.
definitely not for someone who doesn’t understand these things !
Re: old Selni motor?
Hi, as you don’t seem to have any replies,i’ll suggest a different approach.
Have you considered that it’s possible to get the broken lugs welded back!
a small local welding/fabrication shop or maybe engineering works should be able to oblige.
steel, cast-iron and aluminium will all weld.Re: URGENT Help Please – Bosch Classixx
band is OK and so are the brushes
sounds to me like a faulty conductor…also,remember the old adage, “a new broom sweeps clean”
😆Sorry, Mod’s -couldn’t resist orchestrating a smile!
Re: Diplomat ADP 8520 Dishwasher – Help!
i’ll hazard a guess that the detergent-dispenser solenoid or wiring is faulty.
I’m not an expert,so don’t take that as gospel!
you’ll need a multimeter at the very least, unless there are obvious “burnt” tracks. (unlikely, as you say you’re on trips, which will cut with the smallest fault.
Re: Samsung SR-S20 SR-S22 fridge freezer not freezing
may I suggest you apply a bit of logic here?
When the compressor is running(humming noise) the evaporator (radiator-type thing in back) will get very cold (that is the iced-up stuff)
the fan circulates air inside the cabinet, over the evaporator, thus chilling it and depositing ice on the evap.
When the comressor stops, so will the fan, ‘cos the freezer is cold -enough…….now, sometime,the heater(usually a thin metal “tube”/loop under the evaporator, will energise ,to melt the ice
SO, after the thing goes quiet, access the evaporator and see if the ice is actually melting! If it’s NOT, and If you are unable to test the parts (power off!) you may find it cheaper to follow r600a’s advice, rather than replace stuff willy-nilly.
Re: whirlpool AWM 5125/4 or maybe AA1200 – missing door
most likely your machine had a wildly unbalanced load!
always try to put several articlesof similar size and absorbancy together in the same washload….for example, one towel is much worse than 3 or 4.
it’s unusual for a door to break off like that,but , as I said, to make the machine jump that far, indicates a wildly unbalanced load (assuming the machine was properly installed and levelled!)
There is a “find a part” feature on this site, if you can’t find the bit you want, try e-mailing them.
prices are good, they’re very helpful and the delivery is super!
If you think it’s all beyond you, use the “find an engineer” at the bottom of the posts. you’ll need the model details which are usually on a label between the door-seal and the door edge (well, that’s when the door is on 🙂
I’d be urgently reviewing my recieptsand checking if I had an extended warranty!
sorry, it doesn’t sound good…..in the absence of any loose connector (unplug before opening the machine! ) It’s probably a board failure(main PCB)…you don’t say, but i’m assuming the machine doesn’t work at all.
If warranty is out, it’s time to use the “find an engineer” function at the bottom of the page.You’re going to have to unplug it and take the casing off for a proper look..unfortunately, the crystal ball is currently unserviceable.
If you check the casing, you’ll note a joint running down the middle of each side. There will be a plastic plug near the bottom corner of the back-section…screwdriver or knifeblade to prise it out,screw recessed behind….rest of screws around the back and 2 retaining the “lid”….then the complete “u”-shape back and half-sides pulls off.
easy-peasy and the machine will still stand with no further support.
If your “fix” works, go with it! but be aware that ordinary grease can make some plastics go brittle….a broken damper could prove costly!
Re: Whirlpool AWG320/2 – Stopping mid-cycle
Peter, In my (very limited) experience, these “clockwork” programmers suffer 2 major problems.
1- contacts oxidise with lack of use -(as in your machine outside scenario)
high resistance/intermittent connection = erratic cycling.
2- burnt contacts – due to high current and arcing (slow break or make )
the net result is the same as in “1,”but the contact facing burns away , overheating and “stuck” (welded) contacts result.
THEORETICALLY the contacts are self-cleaning due to a wiping -action on make/break…..doesn’t always work out , especially in “2” where, basically, it’s worn out.
Spinning the dial, a few times, has been known to ressurect a “dead” timer 😉
