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Adam, I’d respectfully suggest that you further your education a little and learn not to misuse the word “insolent”
Insolence is defined in the OED as” being offensively contemptuous or insulting.”
Methinks maybe “patronising” was the word you were looking for…but neither applies to yourself, anyway!
How can a mature and wise adult possibly be insolent to an ill-informed, callow youth?
Agreed, Mr. T….this is great entertainment and should be kept in the public domain.
Re: Hotpoint WF 860 leak
Yep you were right indeed there was an assortment of coins inside the sump and the main culprit was a Yale Key which Simon says caused most of the damage, it had bent the element in places.
Thanks for the reply Jim, much appreciated.Look on the bright side! you got a few bob back, towards the repair, AND you saved the cost of having a new key cut! 😆
Re: Whirlpool Dryer from USA
A 110 -0- 110 centre-tapped trafo. would give you 220 across the “ends” with a “neut.”. centre-tap.
the cost of something through which you can pull over 20 amps is going to be prohibitive.
your machine is not the sort of thing normally seen in the UK,outside of commercial users…it would have to be hard-wired into circuit, anyway!
(no way would it feed from a ring-main or spur!
I’d seriously suggest you use the “find an engineer” feature on this site.
It CAN be done, but is it worth it?……..IMHO , it would have to be converted, so the heater runs on 230 , ancilliaries, (timer,motor, fan etc. on 110….that would also reduce the size of the required trafo.
I do not think that for you, it’s safe or viable to go it alone.
A job for someone who understands the electrocution/fire risks fully.
I’m pretty sure that the site-trafo’s are straightforward isolating, with 2:1 (approx) ratio. there’d be no reason to make a phase -difference between the taps. That also depends whether the sec.is just a single winding with several sockets on parallel ,on the output, or multiple taps/windings.
You’d also need to establish what other peripherals(microswitches etc. ) were rated at,,A synchronous timer-motor would run “slow”, as you have a 10 Hz freq. difference, but that’s just a minor inconvenience,IF the voltage-rating’s OK.
You may find a solution on RSWWW.com but I don’t think any conversion is going to be cost -effective.Re: Whirlpool AWG320/2 – Stopping mid-cycle
Any thoughts on how long this is likely to last ..?
just long enough to find a replacement machine 😆
Re: Whirlpool Dryer from USA
My understanding of US electricity distribution, is that theor 220 (240?) V is derived from the phase-difference between 2 “hot” legs…either phase to neutral giving 110.
I can’t say what that means, in practical terms for this particular appliance (unfortunately I can’t see the image either!
Re: Hotpoint ultima WMA66 fault
am i being dense?
If I turn it on the door light flashes it beeps 3 times repeatedly and is on rinse.
that just doesn’t make a right lot of sense to me1
Ignore the leak at your peril!
First unplug!
If the leak contains “detergent” and if this wets the windings of the main pump-motor, it will eat away at both the insulation AND the copper itself!
cure the leak, check/clean any contamination off, dry thoroughly,before recommissioning.
the cost of a new motor is likely to render the machine scrap.the voice of experience speaks!
Re: disconnection and removal of washer dryer
sorry, a bit late to reply, but i’d think any local independent would do it for a small fee….did you try the “find an engineer” bit at the bottom of the page?
If it still works, have you considered a local Charity or recycling centre?
Oh! jeez!…I’ve missed out on the development of this thread!
Look at Miele washers (completed sales) on Fleabay!!!!
One guy replaced 2 inlet valves at about 80 quid a time, within 2 years…had lost faith in the machine.
Another fault was the positioning of the PCB (circuit-board)
BELOW the drum!…any leak and BANG!!!!!
Sorry, Adam, you’re a salesman, like politicians, you’re charming people.
I’ve about 40 years start on you, mainly engineering/mechanicing/electronics….I was a service-engineer for premature-baby incubators…I KNOW what reliability is about!
Slick design and flashy lights are all well and good, BUT consumer-electronics and water are not good bed-fellows.
Mr. T. you have a good guarantee,-In your position, I’d sell the machine just before the warranty expires,otherwise the costs WILL exceed the value of the machine.As previously stated on this thread, Miele run a monopoly closed-shop on parts and service. NEVER trust any company that grabs your nuts like that!- they will squeeze at the first oppotunity,and, yes, your eyes WILL water as quickly as your wallet empties!
IF I were in the market for a washer, i’d buy the ISE…industrial machine scaled for Domestic use….IIRC, they still give a 3 yr. warranty for hotels,old folks homes etc….bet Miele don’t!Erm, recently saw an Electrolux where the main pulley was smashed due to the (ignored) loose concrete weight finally ripping the remains of the last mounting-post out of the tub.
It apparently “stopped with a loud bang and rattle”!
The belt,apart from a liberal coating of concrete-dust,and a few nicks, was still “usable”Another recent interlude concerned an integrated Electrolux W/D…belt had shed a cord which had whipped around ripping out any bits of wiring-loom within reach of it’s flailing end.
IIRC it took the heater and drain-pump before the motor-harness succumbed. Funnily enough, all the snapped/frayed/disconnects were OC, so it didn’t blow the fuse!
gotta love the build”quality”.The layer of rubber will add an extra insulation layer, whilst slowing air circulation-hence the layer of air between the painted panel and the rubber,becomes chilled and “sweats” it’s moisture-content out onto the painted surface….eventually, you’ll have brown speckles to hide the scratches !
the cream cleaner is also an excellent plastic polish and good for removing battle-trophies from car-bumpers . Vim or Ajax are much coarser,so they take the heavier stuff off quicker,but leave a dull surface! (don’t know if they’re still on sale,years since i bothered!
It’s unlikely to affect the functionality,BUT condensation could be a real problem….make a scratching device for the cat,or discipline it not to use the Freezer-they’re not stupid! a slap,sufficient to knock it away from the door,will suffice….may take a few days,but the average cat soon opts for the easy -life.
try supermarket-brand “cream bathroom cleaner” on a pad to buff out the marks…(it’s a mild abrasive like “cif / jif” at a fraction of the price. after that, you could wax it if you’re really that bothered.otherwise,Paint aerosols of “appliance-white” are available ,you’d need to clean the whole panel, thoroughly (cream-cleaner, as above,)
to degrease/dewax the paint before attempting to spray.thin,light coats need to dry before applying the next. Probably need 6 or more to hide bad scratches!
Re: Hotpoint WM68P – drum doesnt spin
that’s ME told! 😳
yea, I made that assumption that he’d distinguish between the motor-noises,that’s a very good point, as is the “drum spin-test” something the savvy person does without thinking….guess that’s where trade experience counts,-being able to see the picture through the eyes of “the man on the street”
