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Re: Bosch Classix ENr SGS6962GB/13
sorry, yes, I was a bit abrasive, however , I stand by the spirit of the post.
please help yourself by posting a precise synopsis of the fault(s) your steps to diagnose , your conclusions and rectification (and why!)Obviously, you are missing something, or failing to understand the logic-sequence of it’s operation.
Never heard of, and never used the website to which you referred.
people, such as myself, subscribe to the ethos of helping people who are prepared to help themselves. I am fortunate, in that I can get more technical than the professionals, without personal liability issues that they face(though I have had posts “wiped”)
Dishwashers are probably the most complex domestic appliance to understand and repair.discard the chaff, present a problem properly and we’ll do our best to help you solve it.
Every appliance has it’s “weak-points” the experts KNOW what these are, a full, proper and concise picture helps tremendously, when eliminating those “obvious” items, leaving clues to point to the real issue.
It was rather foolish to part with money to a “cowboy” IF you already knew the part was functioning, you should have been firm, polite and shown him the door!..so why the hell didn’t you clean it, and any other “gungy” areas FIRST.? no point in paying a skilled engineer to be a charlady.
you must trace a logic-sequence of events, invariably, all parts of a cycle are dependent on the preceding part completing correctly.
the “scattergun” technique of throwing parts at something because “it might be this” is wastefully expensive and totally unnecessary.- though you usually get there in the end!
Re: Beko TLA 6018 not evaporating drip tray.
you must bear in mind that the humidity is RELATIVE.
A warm room at 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} will hold far more than a cold one -The higher the room temp. the larger the volume of water will be held in a given amount of air…..that’s why windows get condensation on them….
your fridge is a small, cold room with air-conditioning. (set on cooling,only) when you open the door, the cold air (being denser and heavier tan the warm kitchen air) slumps down and spills out of the bottom, to be replaced with moist, warm air at the top.
when you close the door, that moisture is frozen out of the air….so , not only is it cold air, it’s also very dry (reason Switzerland used to be popular for convalescing rich people with lung problems).RH is a meaningless figure without a temperature -reference. a volume of air at 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} RH , 10*C, would be “bone dry” if heated to 100*C-though it still contains the same AMOUNT of moisture…..you appear to have a lot of moisture-perhaps the house is still drying out?
Re: AEG Lavamat 6100 fault
OK, that’s dear-even for London that’s dear.
maybe, and here i’m playing Devil’s advocate ) he’s snowed under with work and priced at a level where he “couldn’t afford NOT to do it) maybe he’s not familiar with AEG. maybe he included 1/2 hour of diagnosis on that.
Or maybe he twigged that you’d resent paying his charges
(the repair is then just a half-hour job,probably.)For whatever reason, If I’m soliciting any sort of business and they don’t reply promptly, I MOVE ON……there are many other repairers.
Right, so you “think” it’s the board?….you don’t appear to have the equipment or skills to go to component-level, so use a bit of initiative and take it to a radio/tv/electronics repairer.
If you are willing to pay the going rate, they’ll trace the circuit and fix a fault
but REMEMBER, It’s overheads and liabilities that cost, not the components.I know it’s frustrating when you “think” it may be a 15 p capacitor, but unless you’re prepared to substitute a lot of time and effort to acquire the knowledge, you’ll have to pay someone else for THEIRS.
A surgeon and a butcher both cut meat for a living, the surgeon just has the skill to do it without slaughtering the subject -matter-perhaps thats why he’s paid so much more.
Re: Is the ISE 2 any good ?
What I am being told is to actually buy an ‘ASKO’ machine dressed up as something else.
WRONG, you’re being told that the independent repairers got pee’d off with the throwaway tie-in model and decided to do something about it.
You seem like a sensible fellow, I fancy i fall into the same category, (though many would disagree 😆 )
they’re not doing it for nothing! If, as you suggested, the price of ISE 2 repairs was excessive, that would kill the project-Mrs. housewife would just buy the shiny new warehouse bauble with the twinkly lights.
these guys had the balls to form a cooperative to source, specify and finance a range of custom-specified machines.
They all have a vested interest in happy customers I’d guess that less than 10{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} market penetration would give them a good living,but that can only come if they deliver on their promise.That’s why the AXA crap is an evil necessity (customer confidence)
IF the machines were not up to snuff, -how much of a premium do you think AXA would charge?…..they would hope to trouser 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the take
with a mass-produced, down to a price-point,labour-intensive product, there WILL be failures,BUT you can bet your bottom dollar that all parties in the supply -chain are pretty damned sure the warranty claims will be minimal!
Agreed, they’re old tech. nowadays, but they’re also labour-intensive to build, heavy and awkward to cart around and are more akin to building a car than your example of a plasma TV,which has a far smaller sub-assembly count and is suited to automated procedures.
When I was a kid, a single-tub machine with a wringer! was about 2 months wages…..now tell me that the ISE 10,with a 10 year insured, underwritten ,MINIMUM service life, is not good value!Asko pulled out of the UK market , some years ago, that’s why they are happy to sell to ISE. If you think this is such a lucrative business, i’d do a bit of research!….NO washer-manufacturer is making any record profits….in fact, they’re swallowing each other or going bust or moving production to cheaper-labour countries. another reason why we are losing manufacturing
Health ‘n’ safety, employment legislation, statutory obligations , rates,taxes etc. mean that we’re hopelessly outbid on anything except very small batch -production.
boxes of woodscrews from China can be warehoused in the UK , cheaper than the raw steel can be bought locally!
sorry, your argument is full of holes…….i posted you a reply on your AEG thread!- get it repaired and it’ll probably last another 10 years1
Oh, and how come it’s OK to spend £10,000 or so on a car and then around £100 every 6 months to service it, yet you want 5 years out of a £300 washer without so much as a wipe with an oily rag!Re: carron cordon bleu
Loot /Freecycle (google it) / ebay / local charity like emmaus.
wish more people took your approach.Please don’t SHOUT 😆 It’s bad etiquette, i’m told. (caps lock, 3 rd up, left hand side.
Re: Candy CNA 135 washing mc making grinding noise during cy
have you checked that the drum is rigidly mounted? open the door and try to wobble the drum sideways/up /down in the opening . if it goes significantly off-centre, the drum -support spider is broken. a tiny amount of bearing-rock is normal .
could also be a loose concrete weight.
or a sock between tub and drum.Bra-wires usually make a scraping noise, but if they catch, there’s normally significant damage to the drum-perforation that it jammed through.
stand a good torch in the bottom of the drum and if you focus, you can look through the perforations and see the outer-tub and heater…..carefully moving it about , you should be able to view the whole area.
I have , in the past, peeled the door-seal back and fished a wire through the gap with a car-mechanic’s magnet-on-a-stick…..very fiddly, but not as bad as taking the heater out on some models.Re: AEG Lavamat 6100 fault
Did you get a quote from AEG, or did you use the “find an engineer” function on this site?
I don’t think the guys here would be on £80 just for a look-see!, -especially as you’ve already eliminated brushes. you could also try spinning the programmer round a few times-it may possibly be oxidised contacts in the timer-a “good rattling” can sometimes sort it.
Also as Phidom pointed out, there’s a thermal cutout in the motor-if it’s gone open, it will have the same effect as a burned winding….motor will hum and possibly judder but not revolve.
The professional has given you his experienced advice! if you are unable to check with a multimeter (PLUG OUT!!!! ) use the “find an engineer ” at the bottom V
Re: Is the ISE 2 any good ?
Given the ISE ethos and marketing philosophy, i’d have thought this is a no-brainer.
you have already established that the glossy sheds with their glossy (and dumb) slick commission-led sales -staff, sell huge volumes of overpriced,high-margin crap to gullible punters.
ISE are basic, robust, no-frills products. made to be readily repairable.
OK, you might buy a “2” and in three years time,the motor “could” pop..big deal! but it’s more likely you’ll get 4or 5 years with little more than a belt and motor-brushes.
It’ll still be a reasonably-priced fix…and you’ll be able to get it mended economically, for years, by a local repairer without being held to ransom for parts or tech. information.
alternative is throwing away a crap machine every 18-24 months.and DON’T be fooled by their “guarantees” IIRC, Electrolux is a fixed £90, but if it’s uneconomical (their decision) you’ll just get an allowance against another pile of crap. all the mass-market warehouse stuff is similar in that respect.
I’d guess that the cheaper ISE is the same sort of quality that Zanussi was 10 or 15 years ago.
Re: Bosch Classix ENr SGS6962GB/13
So, you not only want the professional fellows here , to give you the benifit of their time and experience ,for nowt, but you also expect them to run around after you and find your posts on another forum?……..
I should coco! 👿
suppose now you wonder why you haven’t had a rush of willing helpers!
Re: Kitchen Upgrade – Comments on Appliances
As no-one’s picked this up yet, i’ll have a go.
you seem to have done your homework on the forum…..couldn’t you remove a wall-cupboard in order to stack a washer and separate dryer?
IIRC, some of the Zanussi’s now have sealed tubs. you’d need to check
maybe post a separate thread in the washer forum, if it’s not picked up here.Same caution applies to dishwashers-certain models are so complex and compactly built, that stripping/repair is an exceedingly fraught process…IF you can find someone to work on them!…again, maybe a post in the appropriate forum.
the consensus is that Liebherr is a quality product.
you can’t usually build-in a free-standing appliance unless you make special provision for airflow. Fridges in particular, have an entirely different arrangement to the black “radiator” that covers the back on free-standing models.
A washer will usually be too deep front to rear .
A dryer needs a vent and free air circulation
Integrated stuff is usually dearer than the free-standing equivalent.in short, if you want free-standing, they need to stay that way (a washer will fit the standard 600mm gap, but you couldn’t expect to hang a matching door in front to line -up with the unit-run.)
Re: Beko TLA 6018 not evaporating drip tray.
How hot the compressor gets, is dependent on how much heat the refrigerant is absorbing, inside the cabinet.!
The compressor itself, will produce heat from the motor-windings-the longer it runs, the more effect heat-buildup in the motor-core will have..
As the thermostat will cut-in whenever the selected temperature is exceeded(by the operating-differential), the compressor will always start removing heat at the same temp. …when it reaches the set-point it will stop……SO, the variable is……..how much heat and moisture gets inside the cabinet….the more heat = the more often the compressor cuts in. the more moisture = the more condensate is collected on the evaporator-plate (as ice or frost) and then melted to run down to the tray on top of the compressor.
💡 do you keep salads/fruit/open liquids in the fridge?
-Of course, It could be, that the reservoir simply doesn’t have a big-enough surface-area to evaporate all the moisture deposited in it.but remember! that water is going straight back into the kitchen ambient air.
Re: SCHRIEBER APP6403
That’s why I said you need patience!…..an understanding of basic electrical theory and circuits is also needed…..If you think this is beyond your capabilities, I’d suggest you use the “find an engineer” function under this post.
( the engineers on this forum, don’t usually get circuit-diagrams and in any case they are not allowed to release them, due to copyright and safety rules)
having said that, if you can read and understand a diagram on paper, you should be able to trace it out in” 3D ” (the actual , real-life bits! ) 😆
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge, Water Problem
currently about 5 subjects below your post…..also you can try “search” at the top and type in “whirlpool fridge freezer…IIRC, It’s currently about 20 pages 😯
just look for the number of replies (you’ll see yours now reads 3)…..run down the page till you hit the one that’s over 230 (and about a million views 😆 )
edited to show 4 times more replies than I guesstimated!
Re: Beko TLA 6018 not evaporating drip tray.
My guess is you are right on with your RH.-that , of course is dependent on temperature.
A fridge simply sucks heat from the cabined and disperses it to the surrounding air, so if your compressor is only getting warm, that would suggest your frodge is well-sealed and letting in only a small amount of heat.
Maybe your kitchen RH and temperature vary a lot more than you think.
really, you can only make sure that the drip-tray is clean and seated tight-down on the compressor. Standing a bit of felt, or similar absorbent material, in the tray, would increase the surface-area to evaporate the water, but would be likely to rust the black heat-dissipating vanes of the Condensor up the back of the fridge.
the water is condensed out of the air inside the fridge, that’s what leads me to suspect the RH /Ambient temp. relationship.
Small kitchen?poor ventilation? cooking with open pots and no extractor?
(lots of steam whilst boiling stuff and using the fridge?)Re: SCHRIEBER APP6403
I’d suspect that you need to do a continuity -check on the compressor which will probably entail removing the appliance from the housing. It could also be a faulty thermostat or sensor.
you’ll need to patiently work through the circuit with a multi-meter. do NOT test live-plug out, Ohms measurements are all you should need.
otherwise, time for “find an engineer” V (see below )
