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Re: siemens wm2300 washing machine trips rcd
I think you misunderstood what P45 was saying!….because of legal issues as a professional, he’s restricted…….I’m just another “man in the street” so 😀
The switch, (which you have identified as isolating the fault) cuts out the little motor that drives the programmer. follow the wires back (mains plug OUT ) check the contacts the wires go to (ohm-meter) they should not be grounded.
look carefully at the timer, you should be able to identify the motor and the two wires coming out of it…….he’s suggesting you unplug these wires from their contacts (make a diagram! or use a digital camera BEFORE you disturb anything)…..if the button then has no effect(when the machine’s plugged in and switched on) then the timer motor is faulty. if the fault is still there with the timer-motor unplugged, it’s probably an internal contact-fault.
I have stripped and repaired a timer(programmer) fiddly and didn’t last long
no parts available, it’s a replacement unit.Re: Maytag MAF9601AES door lock issues……time for a Miele
Amazing how threads spring up when my back’s turned! 😆
Keep, Hornsby, he’s entertainment!I would not dispute the quality and marketing expertise of Miele….I have been so far as to look at them on “Fleabay”…guess what!
“selling ‘cos it’s had fill-solenoid valve replaced TWICE at well over £100.00 a pop and now the circuit -board (placed low down where water can drip on it and poorly protected) has failed and I’m not spending X-hunderd on it….cutting my losses “….it was pick-up only , Aberdeen area, IIRC, I have paraphrased the Ad, but that was the essence.
Was tempted, but even as an amateur electronics enthusiast with a 2-beam oscilloscope, I wouldn’t gamble on that.
People! check on the Net for Miele spares and repairs.
No non-franchise service and very few spares…..what there are, are scandalously expensive.
I’d consider Miele ,only IF their parts were sensibly priced and tech. info was available to independents.
As it is, I question their ethics and morality.
On a different tack, Citroen cars have suspension bu gas-filled spheres
the gas gradually leaks away. The sealing-plug can be removed and replaced with a £5 valve….but Citroen want £750 for the connector-set to connect to a Nitrogen cylinder.the Italian manufacturer is quoting UNDER £200 INCLUDING DIRECT SHIPPING, for regulator,gauges,pipework ,valves etc. ready to go.
S*itroen, another manufacturer who loses business by thinking they’ll exploit their monopoly.
Unfortunately, Miele have copyright on their software,so it’s illegal to distribute it after you’ve reverse-engineered it.
Doubt that’ll stop our friends in Shanghai or Mumbai….just a matter of time, IF there are ever enough Miele machines out there to make it worthwhile. (doubtful, IMO )
I don’t doubt the Asko -built machines have their foibles/weaknesses, but AXA will NOT underwrite a machine to 10 years, if they expect any sort of significant failure-rate.
( in Catering, the insurance Co’s will not insure ANY contents in a freezer over 10 years old…but they expect it to be serviced every year up to then 😯 )
Re: Zanussi FJS1397clicking sound from drum
I was going to buy an ISE10 instead.
Can’t fault you! 😆
Re: Siemens SE25 M851GB Salt Corrosion
If the salt-corrosion was due to you spilling it in other than the designated reservoir,I’d guess you’re on your own.
Big, commercial aluminium cooking-pots specifically exclude this from the guarantee…..doesn’t matter if you pay £100 and only use it to boil water 😯I’d read the warranty VERY carefully first…….if you still think you’ve got a case, go back to the place where you bought it…..I’ve found local Trading Standards to be less use than a wilted lettuce-leaf, if you want redress, hire a solicitor or punt about £30-£60 to take out a plaint at the County Court.(used to be small claims court, but after 40-odd years they modernised :rolls:
Re: Creda Storage Heater
Having removed the front/top panel, I think I have identified the problem:
😆 😆 masterful understatement, made my evening.
Re: Washing Machines…£100 per annum ?
Stevie….you’ve part answered your own questions, here,- It’s pretty obvious that the Agros/Di**s /Cu**s “sheds” have enormous overheads-I wouldn’t like to pay one day’s electricity for one of those!
then there’s their “sales assistants” (or whatever they call those pimply halfwits) Wages AND commission…..so, how much do you think the product is REALLY worth?……you paid a premium and got rid of some of that risk 😀
The sub-£200 rubbish will, statistically, fail far more consistently than a quality product…..It’s why a Merc.costs more than a Ford-better engineering,less cost-cutting.(except with appliances ,it’s the contrast between Toyota and” Klang Ging” qalitee produce Chinamake.
The real rub with the crap, is the wasted time , aggro and loss of use whilst the thing is out of service.
You’ll appreciate the reliability ,long after you forget the price.
Re: W3922 vs ISE10
Hi, Half-, full,
I’m not a white-goods expert, but a semi-retired car-mechanic / engineer / fish-fryer /jack of all trades.When I was young,with a baby (nappies!!! ) my “ex” came with an almost new Bendix Washer -dryer……I watched their engineer do simple jobs and charge a fortune.
Eventually, after venturing into DIY repairs (sucessfully 🙂 ) we scrapped the machine, as I’d met an independent engineer who flogged me a top-loader,which did 2 more sprogs’ nappies and a greasy mechanic’s washing.
My tame engineer retired,I was given a “scrap” machine which I repaired and used for some years.
Fast forward, we now have computers and the internet thingy….I now have considerable experience “tinkering” with all sorts of appliances, Hell, if I could repair a premature-baby incubator, I’m sure a demic toaster will be easy! 😆 ….I arrive at the situation where my machine has collapsed drum-bearings
I work out how it’s accessed (take the front off)…..but damned if I can see the screws……browse the internet……
UK WHITEGOODS!!!!!! 😀Posted my query,someone told me waht I needed to know……and I’ve sort of hung around since.
I M O the site was set up by engineers ,especially to save the poor customers who were being hit with huge bills just to do a” simple ” repair.
No honest person(engineer) likes to spend a half-hour drive just to change a fuse and have to charge £45 (some charge over £90 callout, irrespective of what’s wrongIf you have a browse around the various sections, you’ll see everything from “how do I repair the faulty circuit-board on this American-style fridge-freezer” to “Haier washers/fridges are dirt-cheap, are they any good? “….no, they’re dirt 👿 So, this site was set up for people like you, who are fed-up with buying unreliable rubbish from commission-driven sharks.
Yes, they have a “find an engineer facility” and a (super fast) spares outlet
but I bet the revenue from those, doesn’t pay the site’s running-costs.
However,hopefuly, we use them and they get extra business and give a poke in the eye to the fast-buck merchants .
I’m sure you’ll look back in 20 years and say, “that ISE was the best investment I ever made in the house. 🙂
Sorry, Mod’s was only meant to be a quick post……but I got carried away, (again)
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
The “heat exchanger” -Evaporator, has to extract the heat from the entire cabinet air….so it WILL get extremely cold….that is also why it has panels and a fan to guide the air and pump it over the surface,thereby cooling it all…..when the air -temp is low -enough, the compressor switches off…….now the evaporator will gradually stop cooling the surrounding air, BUT it’s in a cold environment which will NOT allow the ice (water out of the contained air) to melt.
SO….there’s a heater (usually under the lower part of the evaporator) which comes on to melt the ice.Needless to say, the temperatures, times of operation and sequencing of all these activities become quite complicated.
I’d suggest, as the cabinet cets cold, the circulating fan is OK (well, until ice jams it)
The heater is not melting the ice…. check that it is actually OK…..if so, the thermistor (temp. sensor) is the next likely suspect…..do not confuse this with the one which controls the ‘fridge or freezer temperature.
As you may have gathered, it’s not a simple subject…and I’ve left a lot out because I’m not a refrigeration engineer and my knowledge is actually pretty superficial 😳 …so take this post with a pinch of salt until a proper professional tells you the correct story! 😆
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
you need to check the motor for continuity…..it was doing something before!
also, just because you were getting a voltage,does not mean there was any current able to flow….a high-resistance connection can show full “no-load” volts, but zero as soon as the circuit is completed.
don’t jump to conclusions without properly and methodically testing and eliminating the good parts….you’d feel very silly buying a motor, only to find the fault lay elsewhere.
not saying that it is ok…as previously stated, if it’s a brush-motor, it’s almost certain the armature will fry on the windings connected at the stall-position…….but you were getting a “clomk” when switched,,,,I assume you eliminated that being a relay and narrowed it down to the motor.
glad you freed it off….but are you sure you didn’t just shear a siezed shaft internally?meter across terminals and slowly rotate output shaft….if it’s a brush-motor, you’d expect the meter to twitch a bit (ohms range)….an induction motor shouldn’t make any difference.
Re: Dryer starts, then stops. GE Model No. DISQ493D
The “whirrs briefly” intrigues me…..any drum-movement with this?
“briefly”-please define….1 second? 10? 2 minutes?
It’s possible that it’s capacitor -start which is OK, but the run-windings are u/s.
It’s also possible that the “whirr” is a completely different thing (timer or separate fan-motor)
Don’t place too much credence on what I say, as, unlike P45, I don’t do this for a living-therefore, I’m a “keen tinkerer” 😛
A new motor is likely to be expensive , rewinding is usually uneconomic.
(guessing £70 to £200- vague, I know)
A methodical investigation is the only way forward.
If you are not happy to UNPLUG and investigate, see the “find an engineer function” below.
A multimeter is needed, a cheap and cheerful one can be had for under £10, but is no earthly use if you don’t understand how to use it!
Sorry for the vagueness and negativity………the more detailed the description of what’s happening, the more accurately the problem is likely to be pinpointed.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
If the motor “clunks slightly”. that would suggest that something moves and then stops suddenly!
(hint!- Armature is powered, gear-trains, at this level of engineering, WILL have backlash )
The motor is almost certainly OK (well, free, anyway) the fault lies in a siezed drive-train…..another clue:- shaft points up, water runs downwards)
put some penetrating oil/ paraffin/ WD40 or even *Coca cola!!!!! on the joint where the shaft emerges from the casing.
a small hex. socket or good-fitting spanner should be able to freely “rock” the shaft in forward-backward rotation…..if it doesn’t-the shaft is siezed in it’s bearing and that is the most likely point of siezure.
* Coca Cola contains Phosphoric-acid, a rust-eater which passivates as well.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Kevin,- I wouldn’t suggest putting the motor in series with a 110V bulb, to test it, as that would be extremely silly for the average user to do. 😆
You have nothing to lose by attempting to dismantle the motor.
is it fully -enclosed? synchronous induction or brushed? can you see the armature? (if so, you should be able to turn it. ) can you see any shaft-ends / bushes in the housing?
If the motor is at 90* to the output-shaft, you can be pretty sure that it’s a worm-drive ,in which case you’d be unlikely to turn it, though the armature should revolve freely.
If the output is parallel with the motor shaft-axis,but offset, that would indicate a gear-train. if it’s not onlyparallel, but inline, it’s either direct -drive or an epicyclic gear-train.
any exposed bearings/shaft-ends could be dosed with penetrating-oil /WD40, followed by light oil . – motor resistance sounds OK, but both terminals should be infinity with respect ground (frame)
can’t suggest further, except to say, study it carefully and work out how it’s supposed to work and how it was assembled….then reverse-engineer! 🙂
Re: Too cold Fridgemaster fridge MTRL130
you still havent asked who manufactures these? and then you’ll have your answer
OK, I’ll bite 😆 Haier or Indes*it ?
Re: Dryer starts, then stops. GE Model No. DISQ493D
could be that you have a blocked filter ,or even a buildup of fluff, somewhere that is restricting airflow
that would cause a safety-stat to trip.sorry, I can’t be more helpful, I’m not familiar with your machine.
If you are going to open it and have a look-see, PLUG OUT!
Re: ISE10 1400/1600 induction motor ?
Well, Ekkostar, I’ve sat on the sidelines for a while.
don’t know, (or care) what “status” the Forum puts on my attempts to help folks from the viewpoint of a keen amateur repairer.
Ford Motor Co, produce a range of products……you can buy a “base” Fiesta, or pay twice as much for THE SAME tin box, with Ghia trim etc……and, yes! the mechanical components WILL often be better….the car rides and handles better, the engine’s more sophisticated……..
So, you found 2 different models coming out of the same factory,
you established that there’s a KNOWN difference in the motor dept.you can’t seriously expect the engineers here to buy a Maytag,just to establish wether the component -spec.is the same as the ISE.
AXA is in the deal to make a profit…they WON’T accept a bad risk.
-so they’re pretty confident that they will keep the bulk of the premiums for themselves.
the engineers need happy customers-that means the product that an engineer sells, HAS to give satisfaction….otherwise his reputation goes down the toilet and his living with it.
So , he and his mates clubbed together, funded, specified and marketed a risk-free package of 10 years washing (as much as you like! ) for £80 a year.After that, spares are sold at cost (labour-only to fit)
Compare that with my Richard Cranium eldest son.
Just been to Comet and paid £120 for a Haier.
It will perform badly and noisily. (when it DOES work )
the spotty teenage “salesman” will have left for pastures new…the replacement Droid will not give a damn.
the call-centre will bull5h1t and bluster and keep him on “hold”
The engineer will be cheesed -off with the constant grief he gets from disappointed punters and hands covered in Elastoplast doesn’t help his karma, either.
Then he disappears for a couple of weeks whilst the part arrives.
but that doesn’t cure the fault.
Then he disappears for a couple of weeks whilst the part arrives.
but that doesn’t cure the fault.and repeat…..
meanwhile the Launderette is making a living again, the car stinks like a rugby-club changing -room….their “entertainment is sitting watching 2life in the laundromat.Ah, BUT, Dad, It’s got a year’s warranty, they HAVE to fix it for free.
Yea, OK son, meanwhile I’ll put a set of drum-bearings in your old machine (which did 4 years and moved Lancs -Brighton-Cheshire as well)
For that, you’ll have another maintenance-free couple of years, like your £10,000 car.
Oh, NO ! we have that serviced every 6,00 miles, usually around £120,and it’s only broken down once in 4 years ……erm, about the same as the washer did with NO maintenance……..
So, you see, the box may LOOK the same,contents may vary!
Employees of big companies seldom carry personal responsibility for the end-consumer.
If you want a lower price for a similar machine, are happy to run the gauntlet of “customer service” and their spares availability and pricing,
go ahead,-your “down-payment ” WILL be substantially lower-That’s because YOU are underwriting the 7-8 years differential in warranties.
your call!
