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Re: Daewoo FR-661NW
sorry, if it didn’t need the motor, they wouldn’t waste money putting it in!
Without the fan, the condensor cannot disipate the heat pulled from the fridge interior…the compressor will get a lot hotter which could cook the motor-windings……dead compressor =junk fridge. 🙁why not remove the offending motor and try oiling the bearings?
light oil (the household stuff) or sewing-machine oil, or car automatic transmission fluid….or Citroen LHM green oil are all ok…..a cocktail stick makes a good dropper…..angle the motor to drop oil where it’s needed (gravity is useful!)
Even ball-bearings can be revived (spray-grease can help.them , if accessible)Re: UPDATE: Problems with Hotpoint Aquarius 1200 WD62 Gets S
just a suggestion…If you’re letting property with appliances, you “should” ensure that you either have backups ,OR a reliable repairer.
you say you don’t have time, yet you’re willing to throw £200 to £300 at the problem.get your ISE, ask the supplier/installer to check/quote to repair the old machine , then keep it “in stock” as a replacement if such an “urgent” breakdown reoccurs…..same applies with fridges/dishwashers/vacuum cleaners/cookers……one of the drawbacks of fully furnished letting….or you can continue chucking slabs of money at your problems…..in which case, landlording is likely to prove unprofitable.
Jim has pointed you in the right direction……personally, I think the motor-brushes are just at the point where the conductor-braid is stretching….but you’re talking another tenner there,plus about 1/2 hour…….I’d guess that AND a new pressure switch would leave change out of £100,calling someone in to do it.Re: The ‘Reason’ Washing Machine
market research?…..IFI wanted to make a small fortune from a washer, I’d start with a LARGE fortune…..then I’d set up a website with realistic, animated computer images of the proposed machine and gauge the reaction…… 😆
Re: Indesit IWDE 12 power consumption
AFAIK you are allowed 2 outlets on a spur….that is, each outlet can supply 13 amps (or is it 14A now we’re 230 V and not 240?)….a total of nearly 6 KW down a length of 2.5 cable. sounds a lot, but just look how thin a piece of 30 amp fusewire is.!
a 2-gang (double) socket-outlet would be your max. on a spur
Re: Zanussi FJS1397clicking sound from drum
A segment lifted is going to make the motor self-destruct in very short order!
despite what you think, I’d go along with the initial diagnosis.
bra-wires are most common, but hair-clips and even bits of straw (farm! ) can cause this.
just have a bit of patience and we may get to the bottom of this.
when you turn the drum by hand,try to ascertain how rapidly the clicks occur.
3 per revolution would indicate something trapped between the drum and tub, the free end is hitting the lifters (ribs that catch the washing to tumble it)more frequently, does it happen the same speed the drum perforations are moving?….same diagnosis, but likely to be something smaller.
now, if you’re really keen to save cash, UNPLUG! remove back (or top)look at the back of the tub and you’ll see a big pulley with a belt around it (the belt loops round the motor underneath the tub)
turn the drum by hand whilst looking at the big pulley.
💡 IS THERE A FRAYED BIT OF BELT FLAPPING AROUND?
Finally the belt has to come off (continue turning the drum whilst pushing the belt toward the pulley edge-at the side where the belt is feeding onto the pulley….as you turn and push, the belt will eventually fall off.
does the drum now spin freely?-no clicking noise ?……if yes, the fault’s motor or belt…..if the drum still clicks, without the belt and motor, you almost certainly have something trapped.the heater is in the space between tub and drum, anything small enough to go through the drum-perforations will often jam between tub and heater….as the drum continues to turn, the item will pull through the hole, then the free end can flick up and rub against the outside of the drum…sometimes stuff lays flat against the tub and never makes it’s presence felt. OTOH, the drum reverses, the free end passes back into the drum and jams…..the drum continues to revolve and the drum or heater (or both) get bent/torn/broken.
It should take less than an hour to check out as above……there is also an outside chance that one of the motor-brushes is broken/damaged/worn-out.
if not rectified immediately, that would also wreck the motor.
IMHO, the build-quality of that machine is better than any £300 machine sold today.get your ISE 10 -give the zanussi to a charity that recycles stuff.
Re: Hoover dishwasher hds 556 ms-80
sorry, I should have differentiated more clearly…as smartin points out…there are normally 2….they’re entirely different from each other and , NO -there’s NOT a “universal” one. In fact, you’ll often find with ANY appliances (even a simple oven or hob) there are modifications during the model’s production life,- that’s WHY the serial number is SO important.
I honestly think this is far too advanced for your skill-level-electricity can and DOES KILL also it doesn’t mix well with water 😥
“find an engineer” time! (unless you have a savvy friend/relative/neighbour1
Re: siemens wm2300 washing machine trips rcd
If, indeed, the timer is faulty, I’d try the local repairers (or even a scrapyard!)
and swap the timer with a used unit. If the drum bearings are still good, that machine is likely to be far superior to the LG !3-year guarantee isn’t worth a toss if you have to spend all day off work, waiting for a repairman who doesn’t show…..then when you DO get a visit,he doesn’t have the parts……..the parts sent are the wrong ones…….the right ones come but don’t cure the fault………. 😯
what price do you put on aggro and lost days?
Look at the ISE…..the guys who run this site, have specified the machines
they don’t have a multi-million pound chain of retail-park sheds to hide behind.
If they upset a customer,they break the cardinal rule of working for yourself…namely “DON’T s*it on your own doorstep”I’d sooner buy the ise2 if i was on a tight budget…..but i’m tight so i’d persevere with repairing the old one
Re: Nardi FE0614 oven problems
you can do a simple continuity check on the element.
IIRC, you’re looking for 30 to40 ohms between the 2 terminals and infinity between either of them and the outer sheath (earth)
DO A SEARCH to check “heater resistance”- I’m too lazy, but, hey! I’m trying to help 😆
UNPLUG BEFORE YOU WORK ON THE APPLIANCE.
cheap multimeter probably available from Asda/lidl /agros /curry’s/maplin… about a fiver. or chat-up geeky neighbours 😆
the fluffy stuff was probably just that! fluff from the air circulated round the “works” to keep them from overheating.Re: Hoover Nextra HND615 SI – Not starting cycle correctly
Perhaps it’s time for a “sticky” PLEASE LOOK HERE BEFORE BUYING A NEW APPLIANCE,
Then , hopefully people who are sensible -enough to visit the site in the first place, will hit the “no rash purchasing” switch , Before damaging their wallet.monkeyboy….there’s an ISE dishwasher! DON’T ignoreP 45’s advice!
Re: Hoover dishwasher hds 556 ms-80
wild guess ,heater u/s or wash-pump…..logically, It’s detecting fill but then needs to heat and spray water….again I’d think the heater waits for the pump ,otherwise it would overheat without the cooling effect of water-circulation…….
Methinks,(judging from your “simple terms” note,…..the “find an engineer” button at the bottom is going to be your best bet.dishwashers are definitely NOT for the beginner in appliance-repairs!
(now wait for a professional to say “clean XXX and Bob’s your uncle 😳 )Re: Indesit DI620 no lights on program select
just a wild guess, but if there is an interlock-switch in the latch-mechanism, it’s possible the contacts have burnt or welded together, causing the original problem which you will have simply bypassed by manually releasing it.
I am NOT a whitegoods engineer, so don’t take this as anything more than a suggestion.
Re: Hotpoint aquarius TDL 52
“Are they easy to fit? “
Judging by your user-name, I’d have to say “NO” 😛Cars are easy to repair for a mechanic……mere mortals don’t even open the bonnet………Unplug the machine start removing cabinet access panels……if you find the motor, the capacitor will be connected to it with 2 wires (often it’s clipped to the motor-typically a metal or plastic cylinder with the 2 wires poking from one end (or terminals).
If you feel uncomfortably out of your depth,-what about asking a friend/neighbour with good DIY skills?
Re: Siemens VARIO electronic Fridge/Freezer
Ian, please understand that many others will read this thread and will not necessarily have the judgement or skill to delve too deeply.
therefore, I am not trying to insult 🙂It is very unwise to SHORT OUT any electronic component…….the thermistor, in this instance, allows a limited current to flow….a lower resistance will allow a bigger curent to flow (this could be used to “switch” a transistor, for example.
shorting out the thermistor could well overload such a transistor and “blow ” it
Fine, if you are able to diagnose and replace it………but what if it’s part of a large, custom-programmed chip specific to that appliance……your expertise is useless in that instance,- you’ll HAVE to pay the price for a new board.
In short, NEVER SHORT_OUT A COMPONENT. unless you really understand what you’re doing. substituting is a different game altogether…in this case an appropriate combination of fixed and variable resistors would make a simple and safe test-substitute.
Hope that clarifies things for future browsers. 😀
Re: DIPLOMAT ADP5330 Oven : Tripping main electrics
sounds like you’re on the right track…BUT check the whole circuit, you’ll feel a right narner if you replace the element and then find a wire had come off and shorted to earth /faulty thermostat /thermal trip ????? 😛
Re: Siemens VARIO electronic Fridge/Freezer
Oh dear! 😯 this one seems to have slipped under the radar!
Ian, A thermistor is not “the same” as a thermostat.
A thermistor is a resistor which alters in value according to it’s temperature.
they come in both Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC ) -or Negative (NTC).
There are many different value-ranges within each type and specific individual types have well-defined operating ranges, thus they can be connected to an appropriate electronic circuit to react to a specific temperature.What Greg suggested, was to DISCONNECT the failed unit and SUBSTITUTE it with the modification kit. the original item was “built-in” during manufacture without any thought of replaceability if (read WHEN) it failed.
