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its not how much pressure is needed to push it down its more about it resisting you doing it
you can take the shock absorbers off a car and it will still be hard to push down but it will bounce everywhere
Dave
oh well what will will be
will see how things go from there. will some parts end up in B&Q and screwfix
Dave
like this
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/universal-bearing-seal-sealant-grease
you are also replacing the seal i assume
Dave
Twoten wrote:
Thanks Dave,
I did try and bell out the wiring loom but as the wires don’t go to a specific motor plug it was difficult to know what was connected to where. This will make it a lot easier to check.they also go through the bridge rectifier on the DC board so you cant bell direct to the board
Dave
ok if dc board looks ok check wiring to motor
just like you were able to see field coil, tacho and armature reading with a meter at the motor terminals you should be able to get the same readings from the other end of the cable. have had the odd wire break at the motor plug over the years
can get a diagram if you need one
Dave
a lot of them have a small board. top of the machine hanging on a plastic frame. only about 4 inches square with one plug on it
check that baord for damage / bad solder joints etc
Davethe hose has to all the way down the back
the only other thing that can happen is the hose can freeze if the insulation fails
try using a cable tie instead of a brush to see if it goes down
Dave
like this
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/1601958-hotpoint-washing-machine-shock-absorber
your model is listed
dave
very likely this is at fault
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/424099-bosch-dishwasher-flow-meter
had this a few times but cant promise to cure it
Dave
there is nothing wrong with the dampers themselves they are fine
as long as both dampers are changed at the same time, changing one causes problems as you have one stiff one and one looser one which makes it bang the sides
Dave
the upper grill element has 2 elements on one frame
the outer one only is used as the oven element.
assume you checked both elements for continuityand its best to disconnect one wire from the element as you test to eliminate false readings
Dave
the fact you got that reading probably means the coil ok
well you now need to experiment
what i am assuming is both valve have to fire for the system to work
so you need to operate the cold water feed and see if you can feel the valve operate
if both valve are operating at least you can eliminate an electronic problem
then its which valve. well you have 2 valves on the second unit. if you have lot ice then water at different times then it may be this valve since you seem to have lost both then its more likely the single one
added to the fact you get no resistance on the single valve make it highly likely this has failed
Dave
but if you look at the chassis in that video its designed for round rubbers and yours is not
early machines the square plate is at the bottom later ones the moved it to the top
not sure what difference it makes but having them both the same must be better
if I think on next week i have probably got manuals in work to see damper setup
you have to remeber the kit you bought was a universal kit, you only use the parts you need and you replace like for like. your video is a later machine
Dave
