[electrofix]

thats not the drum spider thats inside the tub
thats where the motor is secured to the outer tub and looks fine

Dave

[electrofix]

ok

are they double dosing rinse aid which can make it foam

you could change the flow meter as it may be skipping every now and then leading to more water

check pressure sw and pressure bell

have you checked wiring harness for breaks in the door ?

All i can think of

hate these sort of faults they are a pain

Dave

[electrofix]

well if 2 ovens are doing the same thing , the supply voltage is within bounds and you have no control over it anyway

then the appliance is not fit for purpose and could be described as not of merchantable quality

ask for a refund if they are not able to guarantee its reliability

Dave

[electrofix]

all modern clocks are powered by computer chips. computer chips need low voltages
these low voltages are provided by regulated power supplies the regulate the voltage within bounds so a voltage rise of any kind should have no influence on the speed of a clock. the clocking speed is derived from a quartz crystal resonant frequency which cant be altered by anything

older clocks use the frequency of the mains which can vary slightly 1{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} either way. It would have to be very old to use one of those

Dave

[electrofix]

well seems to be indesit built and F11 is a wash motor fault

sort of makes sense the way its acting

Dave

[electrofix]

male cow droppings

from the web

in the UK, the declared voltage and tolerance for an electricity supply is 230 volts -6{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}, +10{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}. This gives an allowed voltage range of 216.2 volts to 253.0 volts.

Dave

[electrofix]

well dishwashers are fairly simple

if you have heat, water , detergent and water flow it should clean
you have to figure out whats not happening

could be a blocked motor stopping flow, no heat, you have checked bars and you know detergent is getting in

Dave

[electrofix]

if the wash pump is energising then could be capacitor

if its not energising check for broken wires at the bottom of the door

Dave

[electrofix]

is it heating ok ?

Dave

[electrofix]

iadom wrote:That was the old type drum with a much larger hole. The official fix for that was the power unit supplied with a plate to attach the bowl to the smaller bowl support on the new power units. You removed the old large alloy bowl support by using a cold chisel all the way around the centre.

ah now you tell me 50 years too late lol

Dave

[electrofix]

try
https://easypcb.co.uk/?

someone else used them and said they are ok
https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/trade-member-forums/trade-forums/the-rumour-mill/895134-has-qer-closed

I bet its only the back light that failed. if you shine a torch at the right angle at the screen you will see the display numbers

Dave

[electrofix]

iadom wrote:
Did you ever get to work on the original 1500? It had on fill that was mixed. There was a temperature sensor in the water inlet and on mid temp washes it used to pulse between hot and cold fill.

not sure about that one. most of them were hot and cold fill , later ones with the flyback stat and eventually with a small pcb
Remember trying to get a tub off one while I was training as an apprentice electrician at MANWEB. Probably around 1974. It belong to my girlfriends parents at the time and he stripped it to try and repair it. He took off the flat plate in the middle but the tub would not come off. He had even taken off the ring of bolts and taken the tub out leaving a large aluminium flange. 5 years later I know i could have got it off easily. I even dropped into a local Hotpoint depot and asked them and they suggested to cut the shaft

Dave

[electrofix]

well the rubber sounds like its catching the inner tub

check around and see if its catching everywhere or just in one place

Dave

[electrofix]

iadom wrote:The old type pumps did leak and the clutch shoes did need changing.;) At one time the old large black box relay for the motor was mounted near the top on the inside of one of the four outer drum support brackets, directly in line with the pump. A pump leak used to spray directly onto the relay causing motor burn outs. But we are talking 1501/02/04 machines. The clutch shoes used to be a brown material which was ok. Then they changed it to a very hard green material which was not up to the job so it was changed to the last black type. The early bellows seal was fitted to a large brass counter face seal at the top of the support tube so there was nothing the water could get at to corrode apart from where the carbon face fitted under the bowl support.

they were brilliant machines to work on once you got used to them. you could get parts for the gearbox and rebuild them as the base used to wear on later ones plus the spring clutch used to go so they had wash action when it was supposed to be spinning

think it was the 1502 where the knob glowed red when it heated

Dave

[electrofix]

as an extra sort of sent them an email saying who i am and what we do. they asked for info i cant give but you might be able to
got back the following reply

“”Thank you for your patience.

We sincerely apologize, but we are unable to assist further with your request for spare parts as we cannot locate your original order in our system. In order to provide the correct parts, we need to reference the specific batch or model the item came from, as our designs and specifications are updated regularly.

Without this order information, we’re unfortunately unable to ensure compatibility or provide the appropriate components.

If you are able to locate any details from your original purchase—such as an order number, receipt, or invoice—we would be more than happy to look into this again for you.

We appreciate your understanding, and we’re sorry we couldn’t be of more help at this time.””

hope it helps

Dave

[Author]

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