Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
it also ensures the pumps in circuit if it overfills when off (faulty valve) whether the door is open or not, but like chris says, could just be pecker pin loose
grease trap?
pull the machine out…
tilt it 45 degrees to the left for 20 seconds
let the water empty out….. clean up water, try machine again… check the filters clean
yep. failing to sense the ntc
now it could just be the ntc in the heater, but its usually the pcb
and its worth checkin the wires to the heater/ntc/pcb.. sometimes they break
hope this helps
for future reference ……
How to Clear Fault Code F7 on a Dyson Cr01 Washing Machine
The Dyson CR01 washing machine may display “FAULT F7: PHONE 0870 600 2701” or similar. This can occur after a washing cycle has completed, even though the machine has not malfunctioned. The door is locked in this fault mode, which denies the user access to the clothes, and prevents further use of the machine. This fault code can be cleared by the user.
1. Switch off the power using the ‘MAINS ON/OFF’ button
2. Press and hold the ‘Temperature’ button
3. Carry out the next three steps within 3 seconds;
4. Switch on the power
5. Release the ‘Temperature’ button
6. Press the ‘Soil type’ button
7. Check that a message similar to “DIAGNOSTIC MODE 123F7F2F5V127” is displayed. If it is not, repeat from the beginning
8. Switch off the power
9. Switch on the power. The fault code should have cleared
This is the general way of resetting a Dyson machine. For any fault try this first. The diagnostic number are interpreted as follows:- First 3 amount of wash cycle, Second set are the recorded faults, and the last 3 is the software upgrade version.
F3 F4 are the door lock units, the only way to get rid of these faults on the machine if the simple reset, as above, fails is to replace the problem parts
F11 Not Sure. One report had the fault only showing during the cycle. Another said it was caused by a power cut in mid cycle and it subsequently reset.
F13 Seems to be something with the heater element which is located at the front of the machine and easy to replace. If, if the heater unit fails the wash will stop after the second contrarotation stage to continue switch off then on select extra rinse & spin to finish the wash until you get the part.
F14 seems to be caused by water in the machine in the wrong places. Those bold enough can open the back to check and dry as required. Several people have just said they dried the machine and it worked another dried the switch attached to the float that triggers F14 code? One person added sealant where the transit plate was screwed on to reduce water splash (bold move but it seemed to work).F15 is the ramps and servo unit at the back which engage contra rotation the servo spins round a nylon ring to engage and disengage also the same ring pushes micro switches to let the machine know if it has engaged or not. The fault will probably be the servo being slow or lazy.
is f04… pressure switch stuck on empty
now that could be just not taking water in, or a faulty pressure switch or pcb
when you switch it on, do you hear a buzzing noise, or do you get the code straight away?
wires commonly break on the pck connection
if theres no movement at all, its usually the pcb, not the stator, but that doesnt rule the stator outim absolutely convinced that whatevr you say, however hard you try to help, it will never be enough
the day IS coming
and they call us cowboys….
break the tabs off – change the pump
of course, the trick is to know how to take it off in the first place
