iadom

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Viewing 15 posts - 21,991 through 22,005 (of 25,656 total)
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  • in reply to: Hotpoint Aqaurius WMA44 not spinning #198861
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: Hotpoint Aqaurius WMA44 not spinning

    Worn, arcing brushes will often cause the trip to go, just depends how sensitive it is. If you are lucky it will have jumped in before the board corpsed. 🙂

    Jim.

    in reply to: Football #175102
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: Football

    gegsy wrote:PS – Only 10 points between Arsenal and Poonited 😈

    That just confirms Arsenal fans have problems in the mental department,

    United 50 points
    Arsenal 36 points.. 😛 :rolls: 😆

    :lesson:

    in reply to: Hotpoint Aqaurius WMA44 not spinning #198859
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: Hotpoint Aqaurius WMA44 not spinning

    Not necessarily, it could just be a simple motor brush failure, three different motors fitted to these machines, the Bosch one is the most likely one to take out the PCB, if it still fills & empties the chances are that the PCB may still be OK. Don’t keep trying it though or you may blow it.

    Please remove the plug if you intend to investigate further or try the link below to see if we have someone who can help.

    Jim.

    in reply to: Football #175100
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: Football

    Well, Chelski’s luck finally ran out, possibly the better side against Arsenal but definitely second best over the full 90 minutes against, Everton, Wigan & Reading they failed to scrape a last ditch winner. Man United with five second team players in the side move 4 points clear. 8)

    Jim.

    in reply to: hotpoint wm62 washer #198749
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: hotpoint wm62 washer

    Ron,
    If you can give us the serial number from inside the door we can date your machine. It will certainly be well over a year old.

    You can post pictures by uploading them on one of several free hosting sites such as http://www.putfile.com/, another is Image Shack. You can then post a link to the image in a post on this forum.

    Timer may correct from that number. I have only seen white or yellow labels though, white for 900/1000 RPM spin & yellow for 1100/1200 RPM.

    If water has got inside the door switch it will be permanently damaged or at best very suspect. A very slight backwards tilt is better than leaning forwards.

    On your 1000 spin machine, there should be a small plug on the RPM connection on the bottom edge of the board, it does not have any connecting wires leading to other components, it is just a bridging link. If this is missing it should not affect the wash, only the spin speeds, although I have never left one of to see what happens. There should be no connection on the TEMP position.

    When the door lock causes timer damage it is usually seen as blown tracks on the back of the PCB, you don’t often see components blown.

    Most engineers in the UK would automatically fit a new door lock when changing a timer due to the high incidence of door lock/timer related faults and the low cost of a new door lock.

    As was mentioned earlier in this thread, it is essential that you try to isolate the cause of the initial timer failure before installing a new one.

    With regard to the heater, in your second post you said the heater had ‘burnt out’ do you just mean that the heater had gone ‘open circuit’ without any physical signs of damage. This can happen and is usually a failure of the heaters internal proctection failing, this can ‘just happen’ as you say.

    As you can see from this picture from a recent repair I did, control unit components can fail on these machines, but this type of failure is very rare, in this case the unit itself was faulty with no other component failure at all. You can also see the blue block at the bottom edge, this goes to the variable spin speed switch, something not fitted to your machine.

    Jim.

    in reply to: New Whirlpool ADG 8836 Dishwasher won’t work #198687
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: New Whirlpool ADG 8836 Dishwasher won’t work

    That ‘fattening’ of the pipe is a part called an Aquastop, used to cut off the water supply in case of internal leaks, or other faults. A quick and simple test if you have the machine out is to put the outlet hose into a large bucket or over the sink and see if it empties correctly. If it does your problem is with the undersink plumbing, that is to say, the blockage lies in whatever you have the grey plastic outlet pipe connected to under the sink.

    Jim.

    in reply to: hotpoint wm62 washer #198747
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: hotpoint wm62 washer

    Conversing with Ron via e-mail I have discovered that this machine was a gift from N. Ireland to a charity in Albania that Ron works for.

    A few questions for you Ron, they may help us to help you.

    Has this machine actually worked in Albania?

    What is the local mains voltage?

    How was the machine transported, upright with the transit bar in place, laid on its back or front or on either side?

    Are you sure the replacement timer is for this machine ? There are several timers that appear the same but they are not all interchangable.

    When the timer/control unit blows or burns on this machine it is virtually always due to outside influence, faulty door locks and main motors being the biggest culprits. Holes in the door seal leaking onto the door lock, chafed motor harness wiring are also possible causes.

    Can you take a picture of the displaced timer and post it up, showing the damaged area, also a picture of the identifying labels on both timers would help.

    Water ingress caused by leaks or spillage onto the top of the machine ( or caused by careless transit, see question #3 above) can also lead to timer failure, is the machine in a very damp position?

    Check the wiring connection at the bottom edge of the control board nearest the motor, any plug or link in this area must be fitted to contacts marked RPM 53,54,55 and not to the contacts marked TEMP 50,51,52. They are very close together and the plug will fit on either.

    With regard to the heating element failure, did it have two grooves about two inches in from the front or was the element damaged in this area? If so then you may have a broken drum support of a bearing fault. Either of these will allow the inner drum to rub on the element leading to failure. Try and lift the inner drum by pushing up inside it at the top, it should not move away from the seal at the bottom edge.

    Jim.

    in reply to: Does anyone remember these? #195522
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: Does anyone remember these?

    electrochris wrote:Oh dear, by replying to this I am admitting to being an “old codger”
    The screws are off The Hoover 3224 / 3226 sloping door keymatic, and held the chrome plated fascia panel, one screw at each side going in horizontaly……
    The clip is off the switch rod that ran from the operating flap, to the heater or motor switch on the Hotpoint Countess, and held the rod on the switch operating arm. These clips were used on many other engineering applications, not only washing machines.

    Now did you really know the answers, or did you just read the posts above from Alex and myself, 😉

    Don’t admit to being an old codger, when two other golden oldies have already exposed themselves, metaphorically speaking of course. 😆

    Last few words added to save Greg from digging out his “Oh Matron”, Kenneth Williams picture again. 😛

    Jim.

    in reply to: Hotpoint Dishwasher DWF34 #198642
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: Hotpoint Dishwasher DWF34

    Gimli wrote:Penguin 45, thanks for your interest.
    The operation of the machine sounds normal to me so I assume the motor is running, not just humming.
    Does this suggest the problem is elsewhere?
    Thanks,
    Gimli.

    No, that suggests the problem is more than likely either an internal blockage or a faulty circulation pump as first indicated. It is not unknown for the impellor to come adrift of the motor shaft. There is a circulation pump impellor & seal replacement kit available that is reasonably priced. Unfortunately the only way to determine this fault is to open the patient up.

    JIm.

    in reply to: Hotpoint Dishwasher DWF34 #198640
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: Hotpoint Dishwasher DWF34

    Gimli wrote:
    Unfortunately, having checked my postcode, you have no one in my area.

    As I said, difficult machine to access, if you have to get at the main circulation motor, then the door.side panels and complete inner cabinet have to be removed. Post up the area you live in, Dave Conway or others may be able to give you details of a reputable company in your area.

    Jim.

    in reply to: Hotpoint Dishwasher DWF34 #198637
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: Hotpoint Dishwasher DWF34

    Possible blockages in internal hoses or the main circulation pump impellor adrift, a Bosch machine, decent quality but difficult to access, please remove the plug if you intend to have a look inside, or try the link below to see if we have someone in your area.

    Jim.

    in reply to: WMA50P #198568
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: WMA50P

    Yep, thats exactly what I said, as you have already noticed the WMA50 is missing, I was just pointing out that the WMA52 etc is virtually the same with the two exceptions I mentioned, so the user manual for a WMA52 should be near enough, as long as you ignore any reference to ‘Reduced Creases’ option button.

    HTH.

    Jim.

    in reply to: Europart/Maddocks spam #197437
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: Europart/Maddocks spam

    Or just clicked on a link at the bottom of my posts. 😉

    Jim.

    in reply to: Hotpoint Dryer sticking timer #198551
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: Hotpoint Dryer sticking timer

    Does this happen when you set the dryer to ‘auto sense’ the drying time/temp?

    Have you tried to used a timed programme, say a 30 minute one. When you say the dryer, ‘keeps going indefinitely’ just how long is your indefinitely. Even if a fault in the sensing controls occurs the dryer should stop after the default time of 180 minutes has expired, has it been running for over 3 hours? If the machine gets to the 180 minute stage, it then does the ten minute cool tumble but no error codes are displayed.

    If it runs for exactly 30 mins on a timed programme, but stalls on an auto sense setting then it suggests a fault in the sensing operation. This is a fairly complex setup, measuring the electrical resistance through the laundry as it dries, this involves the PCB, two thermistors and a conductivity sensing device.

    jim.

    in reply to: WMA50P #198565
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: WMA50P

    WMA52/54/56/58 are all covered by the same Service manual as the WMA50, the first three are listed on the Hotpoint site.

    The WMA50 has one less option button ( Reduced Creases ) and a 1000 spin speed. All other features appear the same.

    Jim.

Viewing 15 posts - 21,991 through 22,005 (of 25,656 total)