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Re: Anguis in herba
Penguin45 wrote:
DDSDDS – newbie enthusiasm? Not been posting long – rings distant bells somewhere……. Perhaps we should guide him
My thoughts exactly. 8)
Re: Anguis in herba
See how I get people to do my dirty work for me, 😉 😆 keep my hands nice and clean. 8)
Re: Anguis in herba
Cannot see pto in the Trade members list. Perhaps he should be told to register or ‘wind his neck in’ a little.
Whilst I’m at it DDSDDS is irking me somewhat, It may just be over enthusiasm, but the number of times he jumps into a thread that has already had a comprehensive answer is bugging me, perhaps I am just stressed. 😉
Re: Indesit W143s – Dial clicks round, light flashes 10 time
Death by donut wrote:We don’t want you to have it that easy . 😆
Seriously though most of us always tile under the appliances .
Wish you lot would make longer hoses and not put the cable through a teeny hole THEN put the plug on. 😆
Cheers for the advice anyways.
DbD
The mains cable is the length it is for safety reasons. All machines come with a moulded plug so if it has been poked through a hole then that is down to a dozy kitchen fitter or the customer themselves. The hoses are perfectly long enough for a plumber/kitchen fitter with even half a brain cell to install correctly. Unfortunately even single brain celled kitchen fitters are very thin on the ground. 😥 It is possible to purchase longer hoses for a very small outlay but kitchen fitting firms just cannot be bothered in most cases. You may have to pull that machine out once in its lifetime, just think how we feel. We may have to get it out several times over the years. We have to try and effect a repair and any testing afterwards is virtually impossible if we have to disconnect the water and electricity to get the darned thing out. 👿
Re: Masterpart – Out Of Stock
To be honest I do try to make sure my order is above the ‘free carriage’ but of late I have been reluctant to order anything that is out of stock at Masterpart. It always seems to take four or five weeks, or even longer for backorders to materialise. 😥
Re: Known Error Codes
Copied and pasted from a post by allround, thanks for this info. :tup:
Hotpoint VTD60,CTD80/85/TCD970
F01 Motor triac in short circuit or
Relay of motor welded
closed.
– Verify if moisture has made a short circuit on connector J3;
– Verify if the motor connectors on board are ok. (Problems of
aggressive chemicals can generate a short circuit.)
– Change the board.
F02 Blocked motor. (Fan
blocked)
– Verify if the motor / fan is blocked;
– Verify the J3 connectors on the board;
– Replace motor;
– Replace fan;
– Replace main board.
F03 Front NTC open or short
circuit.
– Verify efficiency of the J12 connector on the board;
– Verify NTC on J12 connector, the value at Room temperature
of the NTC must be around 500 K?;
– If the measurement is out of range verify continuity of wiring
and verify directly on NTC without wiring;
– Replace NTC;
– Replace main board.
F04 No pump connection.,
feedback.
– Verify efficiency of contact J5;
– Verify wiring J5/Pump;
– Verify pump;
– Replace pump;
– Replace main board.
F05 No feedback from the pump. – Verify contact efficiency of J5 connector of the board;
– Verify if tension getting at the pump;
– Verify pump;
– Replace pump;
– Replace main board.
F06 Non used, active –
F07 Lower element failure
Check security of module connector J4;
Test between pins 4 and 3 on J4 (approximately 48 Ohms);
If open circuit, test lower element and wiring between J4 and
the heater.
70802.0000, from this serial number onwards the one shot thermostat is wired into module if this operates the unit will appear dead
F08 Static heater Relay with NA/
NC contact welded closed
– Verify efficiency of contact J4;
– Verify at room temperature on the J4 connector if the
resistance between Pin 1 and 2 is 48 ?;
– Verify continuity between wiring between J4 and Static (lower)
Heater;
– Replace Heater;
– Replace main board.
F09 Error set up file. EEEPROM
is not programmed or not
functioning.
– If it is a production board with welded EEPROM, replace
board;
– If it is a board with removable EEPROM, check the correct
positioning of the EEPROM.
F10 Common of heater open,
one shot open.
– Verify efficiency of contact J4;
– Verify at room temperature (20°C) on the J4 connector if the
resistance between Pin 1 and 2 is 48 ?;
– Verify continuity between wiring between J4 and Static (lower)
Heater;
– Replace Heater;
– Replace main board.
F11 No pump connection. – Verify efficiency of board contact J5;
– Verify wiring between J5 connector and pump.
– Replace pump;
– Replace board.
F12 No communication between
display board and control
board.
– Verify contact efficiency of board connector J9;
– Verify continuity between J9 and 5 leads connector of the
display board;
– Replace main board;
– Replace display board.
F13 Rear NTC open or short
circuit.
– Verify efficiency of J4 connector on main board;
– Verify at room temperature (20°C) is about 500K?;
– Verify continuity of wiring between J4 and NTC rear;
– If the measurement is out of range verify continuity of wiring
and verify directly on NTC without wiring;
– Replace NTC;
– Replace main board.
F14 Upper element failure.
F15 Dynamic (PD) heater Relay
with NA/NC contact welded
closed.
– Verify efficiency of contact J4;
– Verify at room temperature (20°C) on the J4 connector if the
resistance between Pin 1 and 2 is 48 ?;
– Verify continuity between wiring between J4 and Static Heater;
– Replace Heater;
– Replace main board.
F16 Not used, active –
F17 Master Relay welded closed – Replace main boardEdited to include F07. Thanks to lerch & Helo_75
Re: configeration codes hotpoint wma
There are different codes for each module/machine. No set list for the whole lot.
A new module should come with the relevant codes. Any particular model that you are having difficulty with?
Re: How embarrassing
Went back today to install the replacement machine. The second machine replaced temporarily last week was a display model that also had very slight DIT.
Machine arrived with all external packaging intact. I removed this and instantly noticed some brown staining on the door seal lip through the door glass.
Fortunately the machine is in the garage and the customer is an “I’ll leave you to get on with” type of person. 8)I tried to clean the seal with a damp dishcloth, the picture is the seal after I did this. I then found an Oxywhatsit, heavy stain spray and using that I managed to clean the seal.
It is the first time I have seen this on a machine but it does not look nice when you first open the door. Difficult to ID the marks, possibly oil based.Jim.
PS. She thinks the machine is great. 😀
Re: ariston WD problem
Blower manifold kit 087919, just under £20 ex vat. Worth a try once you have eliminated all other avenues, including switching off too soon.
Jim.
Re: ariston WD problem
The Hotpoint based version of W/D that uses the Indesit type heater box 😥 has had this problem for quite some time and has been modified to overcome the fault.
The AWD12UK has two different heater manifold kits available that should cure this problem. Need exact serial number to ID though.
Re: Zanussi drum paddles
Yep, seen that and already done it, same as the Hotpoint Mk2 WMA ones, but they usually only come out after trainers or coin damage.
Re: Zanussi drum paddles
No signs of any damage, all the lugs are intact on all three lifters.
When I said loose, I meant completely adrift.
