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The motor, motor brushes and motor wiring harness are the source of this fault in over 95{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of cases. It is very rare indeed for the control unit to cause this fault. Was the motor new or refurbished/second hand? Did you check both brushes, what is the condition of the commutator like? At the age of this machine breaks in the wiring harness are common. Carefully tug on all the wires to the motor plug to see if there is a break there. There is also an overload embedded inside the motor that can fail, You need to test the motor circuits individually.
Being kind to the Hotpoint agent, I wear glasses and have a Neff oven which is now around 10 years old. Whenever I open the oven door when my glasses are cold they steam up completely.
Forum trade member Don is the man to answer some of your questions but one thing to note is that your John Lewis machine is made by Zanussi as is the AEG. 😉
What do you mean by zero on the meter, the readings for continuity should not be zero? You should also get a different reading from the elements depending on what setting you are using on your meter. What do you mean by the drying relay, do you mean the start relay, the clear brownish plastic box up at the top? That is there to prevent the machine being started with the door open. Can you take a picture of the base of the one shot stat, the one with the dot of paint on it. You will have to host it off site then add a link.
Valleyboy22 wrote:Iadom Just found a third stat inside the door, could this cause the problem of no heat, what does this stat do. Have checked the rear stats for continuity and they seem o.k, one thing the drying light on the front facia doesn’t come on when you switch it on, is part of the same fault. Sorry for so many questions.
That is the high heat stat, not easily accessible but can occasionally fail. The heater light should come on when the drum is turning in a clockwise direction, the machine tumbles for approx 4 minutes in this direction then reverse for 10 to 12 seconds, during this reverse tumble the heater and the light is switched off. There is no heat for the last 10 minutes so you need to turn the timer to at least 15/20 minutes to get the heater on.
No need to remove the stats, one is the temp control stat the other is a ‘one shot’ safety cut out stat. The one shot stat is the cause of no heat in 95{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of cases. It usually has a small dot of paint on it and sometimes has a small hole in the centre which allows the stat to be reset by pushing a pin carefully into the hole. You don’t need to worry about readings, simple continuity is enough. If the one shot stat has failed then it can be due to a blocked condenser, failing fan, stopping the dryer mid cycle or simply age.
Element failure is not common and a failed element is usually obvious from a visual examination.
Thermostats at the back above the heater are the first things to check, a suitable multimeter or megger required to test for continuity.
She has just informed me that she actually uses Ariel 3 in 1 pods. :eek::(
Still uses conditioner by force of habit. DOH.Any ideas of a source, Google just brings up loads of foreign sites and an out of stock EBay link.? Unless its this one.DC6200142A Washing Machine Fill Valve (ukwhitegoods.co.uk) . Might be cheaper to buy a bog standard valve and swap solenoids. Think I will go out and check it out first.
