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Is this a wind up? This the 3rd or 4th separate thread you have started on this topic, you have had numerous replies. You have been told that from your previous readings the heating element and the stats are almost certainly ok. You have also been told the relay is not involved. It has been suggested that the fault may lie in the control timer, something that really needs a wiring diagram to check fully. However you have also been advised that the control timer has been obsolete for some time.
If you have further questions you should always add them to your previous thread, not keep starting a new one.Well as the last post in this thread was 14 months ago I think we can assume the problem has been resolved one way or another.;)
Not unknown for the blue plastic top of the tap to break, may appear to be on when in fact it isn’t.
flembot wrote:How can you check the age of a machine?
Depends upon which machine you are talking about. Most manufacturers include production dates on the rating plate, either in the serial number or in a separate code. They all use different systems for this.
I have already confirmed that the readings you gave for the heater earlier are about right and as I have also stated a faulty heater will show obvious physical damage 95{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time. You really need a wiring diagram to check the control timer circuits but again as I have mentioned already the timer is sadly NLA now. No fuses involved in the heater circuits either. Occasionally the wiring terminals that go to the heater circuits can show signs of overheating when the timer fails but not every time. As a last resort I can send you the timer connections but it will be tomorrow some time.
From your previous thread, https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forum…663#post871663
As you have said the stat in the door surround is ok then you are left with the control timer as a possible cause.
Float microswitch is a real pain to access. I have changed the odd one without completely removing the drum but is a PITA to get at.:(
Also if the float was stuck the ‘empty water’ light should illuminate, if the switch has burnt out it won’t.
Switch is a mess and the very small amp tags are burnt as well. It’s over 5 years old now and a new one of the same model is only £28 so it looks like more landfill. 🙁
Sometimes slight leakage to earth, especially from the heating element can cause unusual problems such as sticking at 1 minute on lots of different makes of washers but it is not something I have ever encountered on ISE machines.
How long was it on the spin cycle, did the display stick or keep counting down? Unfortunately if it sticks in the last full spin cycle but is draining and spinning perfectly that points to a fault in the main control panel.:(
tubafan wrote:Has this got the right plug on it? – https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203418175874?hash=item2f5cab0982:g:BNoAAOSw43Bgaet8
That looks like a WMA part not a WM.
Sorry for late reply, never thought I would be so busy when I retired a few years back.The only things that can stop the heater from working are the three thermostats, broken wiring, a faulty heater or a faulty control timer.
The only fool proof way to test and eliminate is with good quality test equipment, a wiring diagram and the knowledge to be able to read said diagrams and test accordingly.
Although it is not common the control timer can cause this fault, however given the machines age the timer will be seriously expensive thats if you can even source one .PS. Just checked on the Hotpoint Spares site and the control timer is as I suspected listed as NLA. Last price for it was over £56.00
The motor readings are as follows.
Tacho (Digital) 220 Ohms (UK Manufactured); 135 Ohms (FHP Germany)
Armature 1.5 Ohms (UK) ; 4.0 Ohms (FHP)
Field 2.24 Ohms (full field – UK) ; 1.0 Ohms
Split Field (1200) 1.18 & 1.06 Ohms (half field – UK); 0.5 Ohms & 0.5 Ohms (FHP)No need for any live testing at any time.;)
