[j2k]

Re: DC04 AMETEK type motor

Hi,
Firstly sorry for pointing to a competitor but have a look at the Manchester vacs site they have an ametek to ydk conversion kit for the dc04 ( 2 motor rubbers and motor bucket retaining ring ) for about £9 +p&p, buy the motor and you will probably have spent enough for free delivery

[j2k]

Re: Dyson CR01

Once disabled it is not easy to re-enable, if you can move the 2 drums against each other (grab hold of the paddles and try to move, there is a small amount of play in the gearbox which will let the drums move about 1″)then acquire a control panel with enabled software, if you cannot then leave as it is. As a atandard machine the performance is still very good, yes accepted they do have certain issues and faults but there are enough people/ enthusiasts who can help. The software was changed from approximately mid 2006 to prolong the life of the tub unit once dyson had exhausted the spares stocks as the company manufacturing the tub unit had apparently ceased to exist, the issues ate that many components within the tub unit were computer stress analysed which is a posh way of saying that a minimum amount of metal was used, this causes the drum support of the inner rear drum to flex slightly and limescale and soap residue build up between the support and the drum rear panel causing more flex and forcing the rear drum against the slip ring and jamming the drums together which stresses the gearbox and motors, not a problem with plenty of hot washes and maintenance washes, however as has been mentioned many times before on this forum, users have an obsession with liquid detergents, low temperature washes and not reading the instruction manual is the root of the problems with the drums on these machines. they were intended as a high end machine and were intended to last 20 years so on the whole are built quite well it is just unfortunate that dyson didn’t have the historical product data that other manufacturers have to design out the issues which appeared once the machines were used in the real world. I would take it, look after it and it should give you better service than anything new under £300 does.

[j2k]

Re: Dyson CR01 Contra not Contra’ing?

Hi,
The control panel is the one with the buttons on the front of the machine where you change the wash programs, if you cannot free the drums using the method suggested then your options are to dismantle and descale the drums (not easy!!)( there are some guides on the interweb of how to dismantle one of these beasts) however the 2 drums are very difficult to split as the screws corrode into the cast alloy supports, hence my suggestion of powerwashing the detritus from the supports. most machines were doctored by dyson to disable the contrarotation feature so most appearing on internet auction sites will be disabled. for information the board inside the base of the machine is the powerboard which controls the motors/ pump/gear change actuator/ inlet valves/ heater and temperature control and is the one which needs repair when the dreaded F11 fault appears.

HTH

[j2k]

Re: Dyson CR01 Contra not Contra’ing?

Your drums have jammed due to either limescale, corrosion or other detritus building up on the drum supports/spiders, usually caused by insufficient maintenance washes, low temperature washes and liquids, your slip ring between the drums will have started to ride forwards and you may have an F1 in the diags report, As the rubbish builds on the spiders and between the hub and the rear panel of the drum the rear drum distorts. You have a couple of options which are to source a control panel with the “VxxxS” contrarotate disabled firmware, take the drum out and try to descale/clean or have a go at a drastic solution which would be to lay the machine on it’s back with half a gallon bottle of patio/brick cleaner and hot water added to a level which covers the rear of the drum, leave overnight and regularly move the machine to agitate the solution, if you go to the DIY shed that sounds like bee and cue they sell the cleaner, the cheaper acid based one at around £8.50 will discolour the stainless steel, the dearer environmentally friendly one at around £16 does not seem to. Once the machine has been left to soak, stand upright and using the cancel program button pump the solution into a bucket. set the machine to a heavy stains 85 wash and once the pressure switch reset pump out completes slowly pour the solution back into the machine through the soap tray and allow it to run the program. if you can place the machine outside and connect to an outside tap the better as the cleaner will cause limescale and detergent to froth and it will come out of the soap tray.
If this doesn’t help the only option will be to remove the drum and manually clean or powerwash the drum rear and reassemble. if it does work for you then once a month add a pint of the patio cleaner to the boil wash maintenance cycle to keep it free.

[j2k]

Re: Dyson CR01 Contra not Contra’ing?

The main motors run in unison, effectively sharing the load, the contrarotation is achieved through the gearbox mechanism ( ramps, actuator and spring loaded planet carrier), if the gearbox is operating correctly and the gear mode microswitches are operating/being operated correctly then you need to be looking at the drum.
when the machine changes to contrarotate mode does the drum “stutter”, it will try to move and then stop, if so then the drum supports are corroded and pushing the rear drum forward ( the slip ring between the 2 drums tends to ride forward and onto the front drum. if rotates in 1 direction when in contrarotate mode then you have either a faulty gearbox or the drum spider on the rear drum has broken. out of interest can you post back the diagnostic information i.e nnnnFnnFnnFnnVnnn(s)

[j2k]

Re: Dyson CR01 Contra not Contra’ing?

Have a good check of the gear change ramp assembly and the actuator motor, the ramps can become tight due to build up of carbon dust from the motors or rubber from the belt, the bevel gear on the actuator motor can have the locating “flat” rounded out of the ramps are sticking so the gear change doesn’t complete and fully switch to contrarotate mode.
This does not always log a fault code so you will have to observe the action. If you run the machine in diagnostic mode ( power the machine up into diagnostics and press start on a cottons program,) pressing the soil level button will advance the wash program to the next step and save having to wait. If the gear rack on the ramp assembly doesn’t reach the end of its travel and operate the right hand microswitch and a clicking can be heard then it is likely the bevel gear has worn and these are obsolete, you only option is to have a go at fixing with epoxy adhesive such as the one beginning with arald and ending with ite or sourcing a used motor, there are 2 types of connector depending on the age of the machine fitted to the actuator motor/microswitch assembly.
make sure to give the ramps a good spray with silicone or similar spray, don’t go overboard with light oils as they cause the castellated nut on the drum shaft to loosen.

HTH

[j2k]

Re: Bosch SGS5342GB/17

Evening All,

Just thought i would post an update. Machine was within the range of machines affected by the recall. Bosch came out on friday and replaced the controller and all is now ok again.
Many thanks to Martin for pointing out the recall notice, Having checked the price of the controller (ouch) 🙁 , a 12 year old machine would be BER.

Have a good christmas!!

[j2k]

Re: Bosch SGS5342GB/17

Hi Martin thanks for the reply, i’m sure i checked the data plate against the recall notice before and our machine was not one of the affected batch of machines, i will however check again.If our machine isn’t one of the faulty recalled batch are there any other suggestions?

once again TIA

[j2k]

Re: Dyson CR01 drainage hose

If you search the web there are references to the CR01 drain hose, If your freind can measure the connector spigot diameter on the rear of the machine you should be able to find a universal hose with a right angled end with the corect sized cuff in the whitegoods shop, alternately have a look on the auction site beginning with e and ending in bay, the hose is retained with a hose clip which is easily removed/replaced with a pair of narrow nose pliers, you may have to remove the machine back panel for better access to the hose clip.

HTH

[j2k]

Re: Dyson washing machine

Has the machine just stopped contrarotating or not, they only do this on the cotton programs. If Dyson have been to the machine they may have changed the software to disable contrarotation, check by entering diagnostic mode using the following steps:
1: press and hold the temperature button
2: switch on machine and release temp button and press soil type within 3 seconds.
if done correctly the outer door lock will”clunk” and the display change to “diagnostic mode nnnnFxxFxxFxxVnnnx”, the first 4 numbers being cycles completed since new, followed by the last 3 recorded faults and finally the software version typivally 131 for a cr01 & 205 for a cr02(unless the program board has been replaced), if the last character is an s i.e V131s then the contrarotation has been disabled.
If you have an F1 in the diagnostic display and the machine is giving “overload reduced performance” messages the drums are jamming together, this will normally be evident inside the drum as the slip ring (yellow or grey) will start to ride onto the front drum, if this has happened stripping the drum is not for the faint hearted as the screws corrode into the alloy spider, Either use the synthetics program or get hold of a second hand programme board from a machine with failed bearings with Vxxs software. If not with the machine unplugged for safety reasons examine the area around the rear pulley and gear change motor on the back of the tub for damage to the planet ring, it is also known for the gear change motor to strip its internal gears and therefore give no drive to the cog which moves the planet ring. I hope this helps and assists in locating the problem

[j2k]

Re: No model number or brand name in my washer

Hi, The engineers on here will most likely confirm but from the picture your machine looks like a Merloni built washer dryer sold by MFI, unfortunately neither the original MFI or Merloni are no longer in Business so i doubt you will find a manual for your machine, there is a previous post just below this one which may help in using your machine, the diplomat APM8702 is also similar.
The dials are from the left wash temperature, dry time and finally wash program, the buttons from the left are aquaplus rinse, half load , no spin and on/off. These machines are normally 5kG wash and 3Kg drying load and the half load has to be selected for the dryer to function, they are a fairly simple machine to use, basically set the right hand dial to the program number required (see front of soap drawer), set left hand dial to wash temperature and leave centre dial set at “0” and press on/off button, to automatically dry set dry time on centre dial, press half load set wash program and press on/off, remember to only wash and dry a 3KG load, These machines also take about 2 hours to perform a 40 degree cotton wash 🙁 . hope this helps

[j2k]

Re: hotpoint BS62S Glass Door

many thanks, glue ordered.

[j2k]

Re: Fitting a 900mm Double Oven

Hi,
On the assumtion that you have built the oven housing unit using an “appliance tower shelf pack” which contains 2 metal stiffeners which are the width of the carcase as opposed to a “larder tower shelf pack” which does not then you will find 2 bearers approx 18″” long & 1.5″” wide with 3 holes in each. these are fitted below the shelf the oven is sitting on to act as additional support.
If you fit a ventilation grill to the plinth that will address any ventilation issue, as the airflow will then go behind the false back of the cupboards, passed the oven and out of the top of the tower.
R’s
j

[j2k]

Re: Hotpoint WM51A spin speed

Thanks for the replies, comments noted, no offence intended, i appreciate thay the engineers on this site do a sterling job of trying to help the general public with their problems, the machine in question was aquired at no cost, the previous owners decided to replace it with an offering from hotpoint’s current owners as the slightly shabby almond wm51 didnt fit into the look of their new kitchen !, It had been maintained on a service contract and most parts have been replaced in the last few years, as it appears not to be feasible/possible to effect a spin speed upgrade to this machine, i will hang onto it until i can drop on someone else throwing out a good 1200 spin machine and scrap it, something which is against my better judgement as its not ecological.

once again no offence intended, i just thought it was worth a shot to try to improve the performance and make use of it.

P.s the motor is an ACC with a red/orange label and doesn’t sound as screechy and whiny as the GDA ones on other HP machines i have heard

[j2k]

Re: Hotpoint WM51A spin speed

Thanks for the reply, however i had hoped for something a little more constructive, having looked around the web i can only find references to the speed resistor for the 800rpm machine and as the motor and timer module are capable of being driven to 1200rpm on an almost mechanically and electrically “identical” machine, the only discernable difference being the fascia artwork and the original purchase price due to the addition of control to the maximum spin speed,namely the speed resistor strapping plug, one has to make the assumption that the 1000 & 1200 spin models (wm52 &53) either have different resistor values or none, as opposed to the connector being used for a binary logic input to the controller, and as a google search only finds the speed resistor 800 for the wm51 and nothing for the 52 or 53, i would probably be correct in thinking that if the plug had managed to come loose and disconnect itself from the edge of the pcb due to excess vibration that the maximum spin would approach 1000 or 1200 rpm.
Any constructive comments or part numbers would be appreciated.

[Author]

Posts