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Re: Bosch slimline D/W
if you guys don’t use one, i can highly recommend an aquavac or anything that sucks water. in this scenario i would attach a bit of cutoff fill hose to the nozzel and insert it into the base. seconds later all water sucked out and ready for a run. if it doesn’t leak again, jobs a good un.
imagine the washer stuck full of water tight under the bench, mains cable like piano wire, hoses the same. filter at floor level or worse, no filter. as long as it’s not blocked with a sock, it’s drained down in a couple of minutes. (o.k.you might have to empty the vac a couple of times).
on a good day i reckon my vac saves me at least two hours.
Re: Old Philips d/w
i’ve got a service manual for this lying around in my storage somewhere. i’ll have a look tomorrow and re-post tomorrow night.
if you’ve checked all the usual suspects, i think i’d have a look at the pressostat which is connected to the spraypump impeller housing. if i remember correctly it was called a dynamic pressure regulator.
i used to recon at least 20+ of these machines a week, but that was at least eight years ago and it’s shocking how quickly i’ve forgotten all about them.
Re: Electrolux WM 1000A
i’ve just had same fault on bendix aw1000w it turned out to be the timer which cost £54 from masterpart. a mate of mine has come across this a few times. basically the motor does the distribute then just as it should kick in to spin it dies.
Re: Tricity bendix impellor change
i cant give you a definate answer other than to say that i’ve mixed and matched impellors and motors in the past. i’m even sad enough to change the bearings in them when they’ve seized. so in absence of someone being sure you cant, i’d say have a go.
Re: tricity bendix aw1000 final spin problem.
thanks for advice bob but i had checked as you say. then it turns out a mate of mine had same symptoms on one of these and a timer fixed it. so customer is now happy with new timer ( £54 from masterpart)
Re: smeg dwd 1sse
thanks for that i’ll give it a try on mine.
prob i’ve been having is that after a few days rest it would do one wash then i’d get these same symptoms. i was a bit cheesed off having already repaired a faulty diverter.
i had suspected a moisture seepage during the successful wash. sounds like it could be a leaking soap box seal.Re: New Whirlpool ADG 8836 Dishwasher won’t work
probably not related to the specific fault. i thought i’d point out that the lightening bolt symbol is to tell you that the valve should be mounted in a vertical position. sometimes (rare) fixing it to a horizontal fitting can stop the machine from filling.
Re: Bosch residue problem
i’d agree that it is probably a metering tank fault caused by a partially blocked sump hose. when the machine is running you’ll most likely hear the water surging up to the top spray arm then falling back and repeating its self. when you open the door and check the water level you could top it up the the salt cap and run it. you’ll hear the difference but of course that wont have cured the problem.
lying the empty unplugged machine on it’s back will reveal the hose about one and half inch diameter. try to clear it if you can. i’d of course be removing the side panel but we can’t advise you to do that.Re: reliable used dishwasher? Do they exist?
go for a bosch/hotpoint about five years or older. if you get a newer hotpoint chances are that it will be an indesit. older hotpoints were bosch indisguise. a well looked after dishy (not used as waste disposal) should last 15 years or more. the new one you bought is arguably the worst dishwasher ever made.
Re: Whirpool G2PDW1 Dishwasher
it’s that time of year all right. dishy calls up 300 per cent. at least they haven’t left it till 24th to call in.
Re: smeg dwd 1 e
big thank you to all who contributed to this query. machine is currently doing it’s second cycle.
first of all i tried the shorting out of the switch contacts. although this ultimately ended in an e8 fault, it at least allowed more of the cycle to run.
i then removed the diverter and once again checked the switch for normal operation. i soon discovered that it was intermittently failing to make contact.
i disassembled the unit and carefully opened up the switch to “tweak” the contacts inside. being satisfied that it was now opening and closing everytime, i put the whole thing back together. it’s now working o.k.
i of course have little confidence in this switch so will be replacing it.
c.p.c. part number sw00406 £2.68 for a pack of five.
i’ve no idea how much the complete unit is from smeg, but as far as i can see, if you attach the original operating lever to one of these switches and a couple of blobs of solder, you’ve done a top job for a pittance of outlay on spares.again thanks a million for your help. in this house tonight i can do no wrong.
Re: Live hood??
the point i was trying to make is that even non electrical items which can potentially conduct electricity (my sink, radiators, bathtaps etc) should all be earthed. if it hasn’t got a tag, then use a self tapper.
Re: smeg dwd 1 e
when on the bench i did check that the switch was giving continuity and so on and that the cam follower was aligned with the cam properly. however i hear what you say and will have another go.
can you think why it was previously running for about 5 mins, but now only for split second.
thanks
keith
