Forum Replies Created
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Kentish
ParticipantRe: Replacing Bosch HBA63A250B inner door glass
Only time I have had to change a Bosch pyro inner over glass, was when they were cracked and were a result of using one of those shop bought oven cleaners.
The new glass had written instructions in with it saying never to use them on the glass.Kentish
ParticipantRe: Wiring machines into a fused spur.
Don’t have a problem hard wiring in an appliance. As for the machine in the bathroom, I thought they had to be within a cupboard type unit preferably with doors.
Kentish
ParticipantRe: Miele dryer
Possible sticking door interlock.
Kentish
ParticipantRe: bosch dryer leak
Blocked condenser is quite often a culprit.
Kentish
ParticipantRe: Another nightmare WMXTF!
Is 1 1/2 years old not under warranty?
If so, surely you will earn more kudos by referring them back to the manufacturers to save them money?Kentish
ParticipantRe: iwde126 door latch problem
Sure the spring tension is enough? Did you try the other spring?
Logic dictates it has to be something to do with the handle kit one way or another.Kentish
ParticipantRe: Bosch Washer Dryer WVD24520GB/03
Main PCB on the fascia? The electronics on these machines is not what you expect from Bosch. Losing neutral for the dryer within the PCB is/was a favourite.
Kentish
ParticipantRe: Neff U1420N0GB/01
I dont replace the sealing strip, as it always comes away nicely from the door panel edge. It will reseal itself, so save your money and time.
Kentish
ParticipantRe: Neff 4381X1GB/01
I wouldn’t be bothering trying. For a start the baker lite type door seal-dryer duct piece is obsolete, and they do break free and bang around.
Kentish
ParticipantRe: Neff U1420N0GB/01
Without seeing if to remind me of its layout, they only silicon bond the inner glass to the inner door panel. They do have an silicon type sealing strip between the outer glass and door panel. Teasing it apart with a flat blade is easy, and from memory starting at the top.
Kentish
ParticipantRe: Neff 4381X1GB/01
Sounds to me like the main PCB. I would suggest that knowing its age, some parts are now obsolete and the cost of the PCB that it would be BER.
September 15, 2016 at 7:30 pm in reply to: I’ve Aquired A Miele D/W G5500SC Need Your Help – See Images #440942Kentish
ParticipantRe: I’ve Aquired A Miele D/W G5500SC Need Your Help – See Im
Just glad to be of help:)
September 15, 2016 at 5:26 am in reply to: I’ve Aquired A Miele D/W G5500SC Need Your Help – See Images #440940Kentish
ParticipantRe: I’ve Aquired A Miele D/W G5500SC Need Your Help – See Im
Motor secures from the back, so standing up the best to remove that. Then just disconnect the electrics and hoses and ease it out. Try to restrict any water getting onto the components when you disconnect hoses. I always use WD40 or similar to help in the refitting process of the hoses and motor into the centre main seal.
You will probably need to unclip the heat pump cover plate and things. It isn’t that hard, just scary when you do it for the first time.
Most Mieles have guide fins within the impeller housing that stop you seeing the impeller clearly without dismantling the assembly.
I have though never had a problem with the wash motor assembly after taking one of them apart to clear the impeller.September 14, 2016 at 8:12 pm in reply to: I’ve Aquired A Miele D/W G5500SC Need Your Help – See Images #440938Kentish
ParticipantRe: I’ve Aquired A Miele D/W G5500SC Need Your Help – See Im
Possible detergent wrapper or similar in the wash impellor. Machne thinks there isn’t water or enough in it. It’s easy to drop the motor out when it’s on it’s back, and then you can see.
That’s what I would look at without any further ado:)Kentish
ParticipantRe: miele w304 leaking
Have you checked the hose that comes up from the pump housing at it’s joint junction just by the soap box? Had those block and cause air balance issues.
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