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KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: Fisher & Paykell error codes?
This relates to an Out Of Balance switch fault. A smart drive will do this if the out of balance switch is stuck on. To check the oob switch,reach into the back rh cnr between the bowl and the top,there will be a lever , move it towards the back then the front a couple of times and you should hear a faint clicking , if not, then the switch will be corroded, jammed, and needs to be replaced, In fact , even if a click is heard the switch could work intermittantly, or not work the same way. Pn 420313 for a kit including bracket. To replace, turn off and remove the plug from the wall (the simplest things are usually the most important) remove the top console and controller, and replace.
Good luck! 😉 and let us know how you get on.KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: Fisher & Paykell error codes?
Turn machine OFF on the front panel. Hold down the Water Temp Down button and press the POWER button. Release buttons. You are in Diagnostic mode. Press the spin speed up button until the hold and slow are lit. Write down the LEDS which are lit across the top row of progress LEDS. 😀
KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: F&P 603 washer
Just to clarify, there is no water coming in when hot is selected at the start of the cycle,but it does come in in diagnostics? If this is the case then I would look at replacing the motor controller. Go for a rebuilt one and ask the supplier if it doesnt fix the fault, can you bring it back?
If it is just temp related, enter opitions adjust by holding start/pause, then press power and release both. Select which temp selection you want to alter buy using the temp up and down (HOT, WARM HOT, WARM etc, and the advance button to change the actual incoming temperature (the wash progress lights will change as you press the button) 😯Hope this helps 😉
KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: F & P smartdrive 608
This fault indicates the WM thinks it is empty when it is agitating. Remove the top console and check the clear tube that runs out of the RH cnr and into the motor controller. Look for kinks or holes in the tube. Make sure the WM is empty of water and refit the tube.
Make sure the drain hose, at some point, comes up to the height of the WM, and then goes into the drain. The drain hose should not be sitting in water at any stage. Drain pipes beside the tub are the worst, as you tend to feed the full lenght of drain hose down the pipe, when a couple of inches will do.Check these things and retest the WM, if it doesnt work you will need a new motor controller Pn 426204p.
Hope some of this helps 😉
KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: GW603 Diagnostic Codes needed
Blocked or overheating drain pump.
KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: Fisher & Paykel GW701-U fault diagnosis
It is the OOB switch. Turn the power off and remove the top console/buttonpanel. Carefully remove the motor controller and the OOB switch and bracket is on the RH side. U should see signs of corrosion. New sealed OOB switch assy P/n 420313, should be avaliable from a local part supplier. Dont pick up the phone just yet.
😉KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: f&p 708 burnt motor contoller
There should hzve been a checlikst in the box with the board. Usual suspects are inlet valves 65 ohms, drain pump 32 ohms, motor 32 ohms across any 2 terminals, and lidswitch wiring rubbing on cabinet. Check these first.
KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: Flashing LEDs on F&P Smart Drive 501
The WM is in ‘auto restart off’ mode, probably due to corrosion on the display board. I am assuming that you have tried turning it off at the wall, and leaving it for a minute.
Not a big problem, but shows that one or both of the board circuits has corrosion, and will lead to more problems. 🙁KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: Fisher Paykel washer fills/drains same time
No Problem 😀 , and thanks for the feedback!
KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: Flashing LEDs on F&P Smart Drive 501
Turn machine OFF on the front panel. Hold down the Water Temp Down button and press the POWER button. Release buttons. You are in Diagnostic mode. Press advance once, press the spin speed up button until the hold and slow are lit. Write down the LEDS which are lit across the top row of progress LEDS. and post back. 😉
KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: Fisher Paykel washer fills/drains same time
It is a US model. It looks like a standard smartdrive, but F+P put a diverter valve in to improve the efficiency. 8)
KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: Fisher Paykel washer fills/drains same time
Check the diverter valve. Remove the valve, as there might be a piece of something jamming it open. Located on bottom right side bottom of tub to the back and no special tools neeed to replace. Disconnect from the power, tip washer back on a 45′ angle, and the valve is right next to the drain pump. Three hose clamps, two wires and a phillips screw, watch how it comes out as it has to go back in the same way. Put a pan under to catch water that comes out when you disconnect the hoses from the valve.
I hope this helps:wink:
KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: Fisher Paykel SmartDrive
Magnetic switches can go intermittantly, that is why there is no fault code for a lid switch faliure. Post the model no, so I can be more specific.
KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: Fisher Paykel SmartDrive
If the top wash progress light stops flashing when you press start/pause, and it doesnt beep like there is a fault, it will be the lid switch.
It has a magnetic switch which is activated when the lid is shut, and it sounds like the switch has failed. The start/pause button is going as the light stops flashing on the panel. Just phone the nearest parts supplier with the full model no to get the right part.
To replace, you need to remove the main control board as the switch is attached to the same harness as the out of balance switch connections( it might pay to get a new oob switch kit P/N 420313p if it is avaliable as the oob switch will possibly be corroded), remove the 2 bungs on the front edge of the top deck, and lift up. On the rh side you will see a small white cover with two wires running to it, TA DA 😯 , this is the switch. Just remove the screw and the old switch + harness and fit the new one, making sure that the wires are tightly fitted all the way up the side of the top deck as if the wires fall out and rub through on the cabinet, BANG!!!, one control board 🙁 .
As always, if you can see a wire or connection, make sure the appliance is turned off.
KiwiwantsworkinCanada
ParticipantRe: F&P GW709AU
Yes, it worked. However I did replace the hot valve as it had a crack in it, but this didnt change the initial hot valve fault as I metioned earlier.
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