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kwatt
KeymasterNo, you don’t need to do anything that is very much normal on virtually all modern machines.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterYou may well find the answer to that here:
https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/stains-marks/dishwasher-stains
K.
kwatt
KeymasterThey are one of the only ones, I think, the only domestic ones now.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterFunnily enough I had a look at their accounts a few weeks ago and it didn’t look especially rosy.
I got the gist, from changes that’d happened and so on that there may have been changes made due to debt etc.
I have to say though that, in my opinion, Ebac (especially on the appliances (MDAs) side) they don’t appear to be helping themselves. Picking fights with the like of Which? is not a good play IMO as an example.
I reached out a coupoe of times to talk to them but radio silence so I have no inside knowledge at all.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterThere’s no info on those at all any more since Fagor went bust in 2013 IIRC and most all parts obsolete now as well.
76X5214 seems correct and used in it though.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterIs that a nest?
K.
May 21, 2024 at 8:01 am in reply to: HomeKing(Baumatic?) Firdge/Freezer model BWR27B fridge icing up #490366kwatt
KeymasterThat sounds like a classic insulation failure and if so, the machine is scrap in practical terms, there’s nothing you can really do with it.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterIn that hood like most you’ve really only get the control switch and main control module that would interact with both lights and motor but it’s important to work out which it might be and that I can’t really help with.
The two parts however are:
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/ecb0124166-cooker-hood-power-module
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/agc0133098-elica-control-switch-module
K.
kwatt
KeymasterThe 12NC code for the hood would help, that’s explained here:
https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/spare-parts/finding-parts/4362-elica-spare-parts
K.
kwatt
KeymasterThat’s just the mains in, the relay is behind that.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterIf you get a click, buzz, no start then the odds are the compressor is fragged.
To try to put it as simply as possible, the click is the relay trying to start it, can’t start so you get the buzz and all too often the cycle repeats (so you get click, buzz, reset, click, buzz, reset..repeat ad infinitum) as it’s a dumb device in essence so will just keep trying even though it can’t kick in. That click to start will only stop when the pot fires up and runs.
There are two common fundamental reasons for that the compressor is OC/shorted or, it’s seized internally and either way the only cure is a replacement compressor, a new relay won’t do anything aside 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} confirm the compressor failure.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterHeat pump dryers are tricky.
When you say it does not come to life, is it dead, as in the display et all is dead? Or, is it that the display is live but the machine is inoperable?
The boards in these things tend to be pretty robust so I’d not assume anything in that unless you can evidence a failure on the electronics. Sensors, not quite so solid but more likely is the likes of the compressor overheating and cutting out, cooling off and then restarting which would give kinda the symptom you describe.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterLike most, the hob deck will need to come up to get into that so, all the burners odd, then the cups released and that should allow you access. It sounds worse than it is.
K.
kwatt
KeymasterHob deck up to get it and it’s this timer used:
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/a44630-britannia-electronic-timer
K.
kwatt
KeymasterSounds like it is the timer faulty and getting to it is the hard part however, to tell you much of anything I’d need the ART number for the cooker.
K.
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