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It’s certainly possible that’s the problem but, it’s electronic so there is a chance it’s the module. But I’d also go for the sensor first.
K.
All the part numbers have been obsoleted by the looks of it, the fan element was 50277346008 , but I think that cooker was made for them by Nardi so pretty much nothing will still be available.
K.
I don’t know that you will be able to do that, other than perhaps some kind of specialist repair for glass.
K.
They changed a bunch of those and that seems correct, why remains a bit of a mystery but a lot of them all changed to using that one.
K.
I’ve tried to resist it but, I just can’t… the best advice I can give on a washer dryer is simply not to buy one if there’s any way you can possibly avoid it.
They are a compromise too far, always have been with the only one I’ve ever seen rated by anyone being from Miele which is, as you’d expect, ludicrously expensive.
Below that, price wise, I don’t think it really makes a huge amount of difference what you go for but, BSH and Electrolux Group are probably about as good as you’ll get without breaking the bank.
K.
Possibly a connector problem internally, the only way to check it is to open it up and have a look but from what you say that’d be my best guess as to what the issue was.
K.
Sadly this is a “thing” with a lot of ovens where the temperatures aren’t exactly accurate and most of what I’d tell you is already published here in greater detail:
With a lot of them, it’s a case of getting used to it I’m afraid.
K.
A heat pump still needs ventilation and I’d recommend just as much as for a condenser dryer because, it’s removing the moisture that’s going to be the same amount you’d presume from the laundry and that moisture has to go somewhere. A lot will be caught of course but there’s always going to be an amount that goes into the surrounding atmosphere.
So as Dave very rightly point out, you can do this but you can’t use either in a closed cupboard as I doubt you’d get enough ventilation for that moisture to dissipate, the danger being of course you end up with condensation problems that could cause mould etc which you don’t want.
K.
You might be better to look at a plastic welder, I looked at them a while back but never got around to getting one as I didn’t have a heap of need for it but, they can be used for things like that and may be better than a cement.
Plus, I expect there’s other uses for them as well and they’re not expensive really.
K.
It seems a very odd way to work, as someone said, it’s like Uber for appliance repairs.
But not knowing the rates, what products it is and if there’s any margin on spares among other things I can see why it’s not attractive.
K.
I wouldn’t advise it.
TBH, it is a “budget” appliance as most Bush machines are and they’re not the greatest for the most part, built to a price basically.
K.
Not if the stat didn’t get don to the correct temp it was set to cut off at, it’d just keep on running and freeze.
But, if it’s not running at all with any stat in it th chances are it’s a compressor fault. Or wiring perhaps but that’s a bit of an outside chance.
K.
The two thermostats, I think, operate on different temperatures so won’t be interchangeable I’m afraid.
K.
