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Re: Hotpoint aqualtis aqxxf 149 pm error code f-05
As has been said she is blocked. The fin snapped because something is jamming it. At this point best option is to remove the pump/ filter assembly , normally 2 or 4 screws at the front where the filter was. Get a bowl at this point as there will be water , You will then have 2 hoses and a wire attached to it. disconnect the hose from the pump thats going to the sump(bottom if the tank) normally a spring clip holding it on, you should now have enough movement to fully lower it, try removing what ever is jamming the filter from the hole where the pipe came off. You should then be able to unscrew the filter and remove what ever is left, even with the fin broke you can normally still get them in and out with a pair of pliers speed wide open to catch what’s left.
Once done refit and make sure that hose is on tight.
As for resetting the machine. First this it turn it on. Put it on a cotton wash and check it fills. Once it’s filled to the correct level pause the program and set it to drain. If it refuses to fill to start with then put a litre or so of water in the tank and then set it to drain. Should be fine after this.
Re: Indesit 1W C6125
Check the basics, brushes then motor harness. If they are fine 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} the board hs gome.
Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
This is the problem with any industry where anyone from any background can just start trading. I spent my early years as a sparky, then ended up doing contract work for a large AV company then fell into appliances and got a jop working for one of the manufactures as that’s the way my life went.
The simple fact is is not a legal requirement but I know when I leave the customer IF there is a problem I have done every thing reasonable to make sure everything is safe.
Re: another player
these i believe http://www.beverleydomesticappliances.co.uk/index.htm
Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
The loop test is basically checking the the resistance of the house and suppliers supply to the house ,its an impedance measurement of a complete circuit, so if you had a L to N short, the loop impedance would be the total resistance from the live point of the transformer to the house at the point of the short, then back to the transformer via the Neutral then down to earth at the transformer end. basically what you ensuring is that the resistance is low enough to allow enough current to flow through the complete circuit to trip the mcb in the event of a fault. If the resistance is to high this would cause the trip to delay or fail to trip. This ensures trip work in the correct time to prevent death or fire.
As for how on a built in, I to the resistance test from the nearest socket to the machine then perform loop test from that socket. That way you have a complete earth path.
Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.
Just a note, the solenoid is not on the same circuit as the heater as you see it ,all the neutrals/lives are linked and that’s what your seeing with that wiring, just like in your fuse box all the neutral are connected together.
in the DW they don’t have one point where the link everything they do it a few at a time.
Just one other note that the linked wires could be either Lives or Neutrals depending on witch way they switch them. I’m not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} one that model with out checking.
Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.
Don’t see why that would make a difference tbh. Regardless of the position of the solenoid plunger it will still try to move it even if it seized. It does not know what position it’s in before it fires it, It’s an electromagnet that’s all, iv seen quite a few of these where the catch goes stiff due to crap building up on the shaft. This stops the solenoid firing and resetting. I normally carefully dismantle it and clean it and its fine, however you can normally diagnose this by the very loud buzzing coming from it when it’s trying to open the dispenser
Have you done a resistance check on the solenoid coil ?
Another thing is try running it with the dispenser disconnected, it should notate a difference.
These boards are really strange at time. I have also found they do very strange stuff if you have low IR as well. this is something you can’t check unless you have a IR meter
Re: Same old story.
Tbh unless the engineer lied through his teeth the machine would never have got replaced by HP for that and if they had they always remove/recover the old machine. As it was less than 12 months old it would have gone back to Peterborough for rework and be sold in the Factory Graded Shop on site.
HOWEVER I have seen a situation where customer buys machine from Curry’s with there own insurance taken out at the time of purchase, then there is a problem that can’t be resolved within 21 days Curry’s them selves write it off and replace it. I saw this with friend of the family earlier in the year. The Fridge was freezing in bottom salad draw. Indesit went out and ordered duct heaters, these were on back order so the call went over 21 days. They kicked up with Curry’s and they replaced it. They delivered a new one and never collected the old. I was called to have a look at it. Installed the missing heater nod it’s been with his daughter ever since.
Re: Hotpoint HM315NI – Fridge not working, Freezer is ok.
That would not apply to your type, only a frost free model. its highly likely gas issue.
Re: Hotpoint HM315NI – Fridge not working, Freezer is ok.
in the fridge behind the wall the pipework runs, if there is a leak in that section sometimes you can feel the back wall go spongy,
when i say wet wall under normal oporation the rear wall of the fridge will freeze over lightly then defrost and water runs down into the gutter below.
Re: Hotpoint HM315NI – Fridge not working, Freezer is ok.
Looks like thats a wet wall model, its likely its low on gas, i have seen the liner crack and it can be nothing, feel the wall at the back of the fridge, is it spongy anywhere ? if not its likely lost enough gas to cause a problem, you would need an engineer to perform a system repair, not something you can do sorry.
Re: Indesit BAAN12 Fridge/Freezer dripping water from back p
A few things to check. It sounds like a wet wall unit if it has a gutter with a hole going down
First thing is make sure no food is touching the rear wet wall. All food and trays should be at least 1cm in front of this wall, if anything is touching it will provide a path for the water to flow.The hole must be clear. Poor a very small amount of boiling water down it to make sure it’s clear.
Secondly is it level? make sure it’s not tilted forward at all, if it is tithe water won’t run in the gutter. In fact tilt back very slightly will be perfect.
Lastly do not put hot or uncovered food in the fridge. This will add moisture and causes excesive buildup.
In normal operation the rear wall will freeze over when the fridge is running then defrost in the times when it’s not, , the water from this should flow down the rear wall,into the gutter and away onto the compressor tray.
Re: plastic washing machine tanks
I would not say that’s the case for all of them but I heard that the 5490 or now the number ending in 604 were in very short supply. Then I was told that some may be being refurbished Then I had a few in and the inner drum did not look as other new ones did. They looked lightly scratched all over. Like it had been spun with pea shingle in it. Lifters were new. However the last pair I had look like brand new ones again.
Can’t say for certain it’s all whispers and rumours but I can only believe what I see. For a period they looked different to what thy normally looked like and it fitted with the story I was told.
Re: plastic washing machine tanks
I believe Indesit have been re using the inner drum from the 5490 welded drum recently. They have been having them cleaned up and put in new outer tanks. You can see some dents and marks in the back if the inner tank, don’t know if its a perminant thing or just to get past shortages.
Seen a few fail relly soon as we’ll so I’d guess they have not allways been changing the spiders either.
Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.
the shared side of the heater with the solenoid is the permanent side, the heater and solenoid are switched via the other wires, you can test the heater with out going to the base by doing a resistance check from the two wires on the solenoid to the pink wire going to the board from the heater, disconnect both connection first obviously, you can then also test the pressure switch by going from the same two wires on the solenoid to the door lock, no water in base it should be open circuit, then put a litre or so in the base and check it again, you should see the 30 or so ohm’s from the heater.
it will operate with out the dispenser fine, if heater is fine then its will be your board, these are quite flakey on these models. after a few years they often to to heater issues.
