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Re: beko drcs68w no heat ntc spec
Just like to update ,problem solved .Heater relay stuck open Replaced relay and all working fine.A tip for a quick check for stuck relay not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} but Smack the relay housing with back of screwdriver and see if the contacts come unstuck while still attached to board first to see if it works. I tested my relay out of board with dvom and tried energizing the faulty one to clarify it was faulty . Mine came unstuck when smacked .New relay then soldered in and all working . .If it don’t come unstuck while in board you can just solder in a new relay after testing old one out of board if you like . Here is board with heater relays circled .Only one relay stuck .
Re: Tds windows8
Hi paul if you have virtual box (which is free )and a copy of win 7 or an old copy of xp you can load win 7 or xp in virtual box then you can load the tds discs there if compatibility mode does not work.It’s a bit of messing about but would work if you can figure it out.Maybe someone else might have an easier option.
Best
Shaun
Re: Indesit F06 Fault Code?
Program selector error on indesit site but they are vague and could mean anything lol
Re: Tips, Tricks & Shortcuts
Probably most know about these ,but for those who don’t and do cooker and hob installs, then these make life a breeze to get the cables in.Will take 2 6mm2 or 10mm2 cables easily . http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1022/click-45a-easyfit-dual-appliance-outlet-plate
Re: Zanussi ZDC 5355W condenser (sensor) dryer not heating
You should be getting about 750 ohms across the pump terminals with it disconnected using the continuity setting on your meter (does not have to be the exact amount but you should be getting a reading )..Always make sure plug is out before any testing :zap:
Re: Beko Condensor Dryer DRCS68W Cutting Out
Just like to add ,check the float switch at the back near pump .Make sure it is seated correctly and is operating as it should.Had one that did the same thing and found that float switch was not seated right (dryer was un even on floor so not sure if it was disturbed with movement ,reseated and operated switch a few times with my finger on the metal part of the switch and been working perfectly ever since).
Re: Tips, Tricks & Shortcuts
Thanks for that link Martin .Will have a good read through this .Will no doubt come in handy.
Cheers :tright:
Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
Just like to add that the “cowboy ” phrase was not aimed at anyone on this forum ! I was merely trying to say that asking for help shows that it is a good thing ! and i reckon someone who is a “cowboy” would not be wanting to know about the safer working practices or how to use test equipment correctly !
I did try to edit my post after i re -read it but could not.
I hope that anyone reading this thread will not be deterred from asking for any help in the future regarding test equipment .I will certainly not be put off to ask anything that i am not sure of and welcome the help of others .
Funny how a thread started on me asking if anyone had this tester just to see if it was any good or not,then ended in a debate about competence etc mainly from Lee8 !
This is my last post on this thread as it’s gone past what i was originally seeking.shaun
Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
lee8 wrote:
Good sentiments, but, if a person is unsure of the equipment and its use and how to interpret the results, their then not safe, are they ?Can see where you are coming from Lee8 ! but my point is ,if there are guys out there that don’t do a loop test on hard wired appliances and probably not sure how to do one,but are working on the appliance and say they never had any formal training but are in this trade , then it does not hurt to point them in the right direction .
Slightly off topic but similar discussion with the
insulation testing, some guys openly admitted to not owning one or knowing how to use it. But once it was highlighted on this forum those who were not using one realised how essential it was . These guys are not your average cowboys (well i hope not)and were not afraid to own up and learn from others !! Rather than be negative Lee8 ? why not encourage threads like these? After all it is good for the trade and more people will be safer .Maybe one day it will be governed properly and everyone checked to make sure they are doing the correct safety checks etc .Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
Just like to add that the tester i use will not let you perform a loop test if any of the other tests it performs first fails.
(could not edit my post to add the above to it 🙂 )
Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
Hi twicknix,
I already see Martin has kindly added a link to his “clamp meter” pdf for you to have a look at 🙂 I use my combined multimeter /clamp meter instead of just a multimeter because it allows me to be safer when testing live using the clamp feature that my multimeter did not have.(i know some will say we should not test live ,but i guess most do).
I use it the same way as probably most do for checking the current draw of the heater element to see if it is working correctly under load .A simple calculation using ohms law will give you the current draw.Wattage divided by voltage gives you the amperage you then have an idea of the state of the element .You can also use it see if a motor is drawing to much current on initial start up and when stable ,you can check usually on the rating plate of the motor to see what the current draw is.You can check pumps etc it is a very useful tool to have.
Like you say alot of dw,wm ,td have a plug that is accessible from a socket in a cupboard but by using the extension lead with the outer-sheaf removed and the core wires exposed (as in Martins pdf ) then it is a lot easier to test the element in situ especially if it is a built in appliance .
As for loop testing then it is not as straight forward as we think as Philfish outlined above in his post..There are quite a lot of factors to take into account to actually test it like an electrician would. It also depends on the test equipment you have at your disposal and how to interpretate those readings.The tester i purchased and was the cause of this debate is easy enough to use ,it comes with an IECP UKA – 13a Plug to IEC Female Connector for plugging straight into sockets to carry out the tests – loop, mains voltage, correct wiring, correct polarity and does not cause any tripping.It also comes with fused test leads for connecting to appliances and spur outlets.When i use the test leads for standalone cookers or even built in hobs and ovens i always remove the appliance (once isolated) so i can test from the back ,why ? because i always want to check that the cable to the appliance is correctly fitted that the connector block shows no signs of any arcing or burn marks that can cause any issues to the appliance.Same goes for the cooker outlet point.Don’t forgot if any problem arises after you have been to an appliance and left, the finger always points to he who touched it last.How many who are in a rush for there next job and fit a cooker element without even checking the appliance over ? even if your diagnosis of the element is correct and you’ve removed the element from the front without removing the appliance you still have worked on that appliance and should make sure it is safe before and after. I do an earth continuity and insulation test once i have the appliance out ,if it seems like you could damage worktops or kick boards etc then you have the option of walking away from a badly installed appliance. Once i am happy i connect the loop tester’s fused leads to the earth of the appliance and then to the live and neutral..Readings are then performed and the loop test button can be pressed if the reading is outside of the given spec then you need to know if the system is TT etc as a higher reading is ok for a TT system upto 200ohm but not for a TN (pme ) which should be below 1ohm on this tester.
Like i have said this is by no means a full test that an electrician would do but at least it gives an idea of any potential faults.
If you would like a bit more info twixnix regarding systems and what the regulations are i can email a couple of pdfs to read but I’ll tell you there’s a hell of a lot to take in and will scramble your brain lol.
Shaun
Re: Does anyone use this loop tester info required
Phil makes some really good points here regarding TN-C-S TT TN-S systems .Graham Dixon did cover these when i did the dixon training a couple of years back and the readings we should expect to get on which ever system we came across.These were also part of the course handouts for us to refer to once we had left the course.Also we learned all about ohms law etc and how to make calculations to aid fault finding.
Also the internet is a great resource to keep up with the current regs and any info that may be needed to keep you up to date .I did more reading up on loop testing hard wired appliances when i knew i would be doing the ck1 cooker course ,i also got myself up to speed applying diversity and the right cable sizes and consumer units etc for cooker installations prior to attending the cooker course.
I also agree that an electrician will do more tests on circuits than a domestic appliance engineer would but if you understand the correct readings of the circuit you are working on then if that reading seems way off the mark then at least it can be brought to the attention of the customer.Then that would be electrician territory.Some of the test equipment out there is easy enough to use if you look for it and will give you clear readouts that are easy to understand and does the calculations for you .
But like Phil says you need to know the system you are working on first.
I also find the clamp meter invaluable for testing as it makes life alot easier and would not be without one now especially for built in appliances (my other multimeter) is redundant now and that’s thanks to Martin 😉 Also Graham dixon said the insulation tester was a must have when i attended his course ,he said it was as much important as the multimeter for us to identify faults.That’s why it was my first purchase when i got home.
