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Yeah there’s too many firms like this around nowadays, I detest them and the based in your area repair companies that are anything but and charge people a fortune for even the most basic work.
Thanks guys: After finding and reading the comments about them, I’ll be giving them a wide berth. They’re advertising on the net for people who want to set up as self employed appliance engineers, they apparently give free help and advice to startups & help them find work.
Glad you got it sorted & thanks for the update, maybe you can repair the old board and keep as a spare.
Hi Jonty: I’m not a refrigeration engineer but with any fault like that, if your thinking board fault: I’d be looking for faulty electrolytic capacitors first, i.e domed tops & leakage around the bases.
Hi Ken: Thanks for the reply, I did try a search before posting but got nothing back. Will try re – wording the search and see what happens.
AndyI don’t normally do refrigeration but the 1st thing I’d do is unplug for 30 minutes to try re – setting.
Hi: I can’t actually find anything on re-emerging codes on your machine, so it may well automatically clear when the fault is no longer there. Unfortunately when it says door lock, the fault doesn’t have to be the interlock itself.
There could be a fault in the interlock wiring harness or on the control PCB itself, if the interlock itself was faulty then it could also have damaged the PCB. All these things need to be checked.Heat resistant would be fine and 2.5mm would be ok as it’s rated at 25a, your 4Kw oven should draw a maximum of just under 17a at full power. If using 2.5 flexible then make sure that you get a good wrap around the terminal screw or double it back under the connection clamp and twist the strands together well.
