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iadom wrote:
Good luck with that, 🙁 They do have a Facebook page you could always have a rant on. 😉
CATA Electrodomésticos | FacebookAnd their web site for the ‘resto’ Europe. 🙂 Homepage | CATA appliances
Clicking on Customer Service just gets you a web page request form and a Spanish phone number. 🙁
That’s bad. In that case I suppose the fitting company is the only avenue you can go down. 🙁
The Cata products I can see online all have a 2 year warranty so it’d be worth contacting Cata about it. They also unfortunately all get terrible reviews. 🙁
One of these perhaps – https://www.statesmanappliances.co.uk/products/4138922-50cm-gas-cooker-with-lid-white
I’ve no idea if they are any good, just found via a quick Google search.Is that part of the water chiller, because if so I’m wondering if it freezing is a symptom of the fridge being too cold rather than the cause. The cause is more likely to be a thermostat/controller issue.
Sheffield10 wrote:
Thanks for the reply – I assume the check on wiring in the door is to confirm the wash motor is being fed a voltage when it should be, is that correct. I should also have added, that I can hear a buzzing noise coming from the region of the wash motor during the wash cycle, when the wash motor should be running. Is it possible that the capacitor is faulty even if it is showing rising resistance when it is tested – or shall I just give in and try a new wash motor!
My bold above – yes it could still be faulty. For the small cost of a generic motor capacitor of the right uF rating I’d give that a go before changing out the whole motor assembly.
When my Bosch dishwasher had the same issue a few years ago I gave the motor a flick with an insulated tool (lolly stick!) and it started running. On that basis I got a new capacitor and it did fix it.danielavargiu wrote:Thank you. The machine looks quite old, how can I exctly know the year? 2010 or 2000
Daniela
Can we have the model number as I expect one of the experts (not me!) will know from that.
Going by this post – https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/public-support-forums/help-and-support/washing-machine-help-forum/92570-manufacture-date-for-a-hotpoint-washing-machine – it’s either 2000 or 2010. More likely 2010 I would think.
Where did you find mould, as if it’s in the dispenser drawer its not unusual and just needs a good clean.If the motor is free with the power off but is humming and getting hot when powered it sounds like it could be a failed motor capacitor. If so it should be quite cheap to fix.
If it has a drain at the back then it’s not air cooled and the rear wall should be getting cold enough to ice up. If it isn’t then it’s a refrigeration fault as per Tony R’s comment.
Is this an air cooled fridge, as it could be a stuck air vane or iced-up duct causing the issue? If it’s the type where the rear wall cools it then I would agree with Tony R as the fridge should be really cold if the compressor is running constantly.
Not sure if it applies to your model, but it might be worth looking at this post – https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/public-support-forums/help-and-support/washing-machine-help-forum/861856-beko-wdr7543121w-sudden-no-power
I’m no expert but the drain pump for that looks like a standard 240V Askoll part that should last for years. Can’t think how the control board could damage it as it’s either powered or not.
