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I wear dewalt safety boots I got from Makro, had them about a year now they are super comfy, non marking boots, have worn them daily but theres hardly any sign of wear on them.
Re: 100cm cooker – do we need a 100cm hood?
fruitbat wrote:
We’re currently wavering between a Falcon and Britannia duel fuel range, but I am just curious as to whether the Aga Masterchef and Falcon 1000 are built on the same ‘chassis’ – specs seem remarkably similar, except for the hob.Thanks in advance
FruitbatYes they are, and both great cookers too, Personally I prefer the look of the falcon though.
Theonly way to test is to use a digital thermomiter,turn the oven on for 30 mins then take the temperatures at which the thermostat cuts in and out, eg thermostat cuts out at 210c and cuts back in at 190 = average temp of 200c, I generally let the oven cycle 3-4 times to get an accurate figure.
If you are using anything other than a digital thermomiter to do this test then you may as well just put your hand in the oven to get the temp, taking the temp after only 10 mins is a waste of time too.
All ceramic hobs require a dedicated supply.
Yes it can be expensive.
No there’s no standard size (unfortunately).Re: MFI DIPLOMAT OVEN
latteberry wrote:As far as the person who says he’s never seen an injury as a result of this – well, that’s about to change.
Yes, ours exploded last night. It’s a Hygena Select 910. With the grill on top and convection oven on bottom. Steak was in the grill when it exploded. I wasn’t touching the door, I was about 2 feet away. But the grill is at eye level and I often look in to check on the food – never again.
The hot glass flew out with great velocity all over the kitchen. Some landed on my foot and I have a burn.
The glass also melted the vinyl floor.
Then, the sudden rush of cool air INTO the oven through the now-compromised seal caused a fire to ignite inside, which could have caused even more damage.
This is extremely dangerous. There could have been children or animals within the WIDE range of hot glass projectiles.
I dont believe you are meant to grill on these cookers with the door closed, certainly when I was doing warranty work the two different makes being used both required the grill door to be open.Re: You must be CORGI registered to work on gas!!!
kwatt wrote:
It is not true to say that only CORGI engineers can repair gas appliances because, they can. Your example given with the fan element is a case in point.
If the gas supply is not interrupted or the bayonet fitting only disconnected, then the example you give is perfectly legal, providing that no gas carrying parts were disturbed. Any other view is, so far as I am aware, wrong.
.K.This is where you actually have no legal standing established, as far as the data badge is concerned you are working on a gas appliance, whatever anybody thinks that is a basic fact but Corgi and HSE refuse to put down in writing whether a non Corgi engineer can work on such things as fan elements etc on these appliances and you end up with different answers from different people, until they do then nobody is going to have a definitive answer and this sort of argument will carry on.
So many different styles to choose from, I would have a look at the website, my personal favourite is the black/chrome Elan, not the cheapest in their range but built like a tank.
Trade appliances is a good place to look for prices.
Up your budget and get a rangemaster best build in its price bracket by a long way and in years to come you will still have it too, unlike quite a few ranges in a similar price bracket or cheaper.
Re: “You must be CORGI registered to work on gas”
washdoctor wrote:Just got off the phone to Corgi. It IS ILLEGAL for any trade person to carry out ‘GAS WORK’ on any appliance without 1 – being certified competent AND 2 – Corgi registered. If Corgi are made aware of any repairer working on gas that are not registered, they WILL, in every instance, investigate and pass the case to the HSE for prosecution if the law is being broken.
I suggest that this person is either 1 – not actually doing ‘gas work’ or 2 – he is corgi registered. If he isn’t, for the sake of the safety of the customer, he must be reported. If Corgi take no action (which I doubt), I’m sure the press would would be interested in this case!!What they say and do are two different things, it wasnt long ago we were told that registration fee’s would help subsidise our annual membership fee, which then went up !!!
The person in question has been reported, his work checked and nothing has been done, if you read your “gas installer” mag you will see that they dont seem to want to prosecute anymore, they would rather get them corgi registered to get a fee off them every year.
Re: “You must be CORGI registered to work on gas”
washdoctor wrote:I’m aware that customers don’t have to be registered if they are doing work for themselves, but ‘wsts’ refers to “a local fitter is known of by CORGI apparently for working on gas as part of his business while not registered“. Surely that can’t be right? 😕
Thats what was thought by us but apparently prosecution is hard if the operative has done everything expected of him, you cant say somebody is incompetent or dangerous if they are fitting appliances/boilers to standards….. we are not happy.
Re: Stoves Oven and Hob – Repair or Change?
les_offers wrote:I used a multimeter with a temp probe lead. I don’t expect it is very accurate but it does show that the oven warms up towards the set temperature but turns off and falls back about 10 – 20 deg C before reigniting. Each time it reignites it warms up a few degrees higher but it can take 30 minutes or more to get there. By the way these reading are taken after the oven has indicated that it is at the correct temperature. I haven’t kept a record of actual temperatures but I could run some tests again if you think it would help. In any case thanks very much for taking the time to reply.
After the green light has come on to indicate that the oven has reached temperature I would actually expect it to be below the temperature that you are expecting to get, and for it to add a few degrees on each cycle as it is doing, if you did the same test on almost any electric fan oven you would see almost exactly the same thing happening until the temperature levels out, it does not actually sound like there is too much wrong with the oven and if I were still working for Stoves I definitely pass the oven, also on oven temperatures there is a manufacturers tolerance to take into account, most will be +/- 15oC but some are as high as 25oC.
Is there a reason that you felt the need to test it ? is it taking a long time to cook things ?
What are you using to test the temperatures and what temperatures are you getting on what settings ?
If you arent happy with your oven then you should send a letter to the MD at Stoves (Glen Dimplex) I am critical of a few of stoves appliances compared to the competition but they do react in a proper manner to any MD complaints, eg if you sent a letter in at the start of next week I would say you would have a response at the start of the week after, MD letters are not binned or ignored generally at Stoves.
