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“For the time being I am just going to put it back together and put up with the noise until I decide”. You want to be careful doing that as the drum will drop if the front bearing goes to shrapnel. This can then rub against the front sealed half of the plastic tank and friction burns holes = major flood on a rinse spin. Not recommended you do that for obvious reasons.
Also possible ( apart from rotting cloth trapped inside somewhere though that would be unlikely as this is the only problem you mention ), especially if liquid detergent has been used and running in parallel with “save save low energy low temperature washing” that the spider assembly and back and front of the tank unit or under the drum itself have got a coating of sloshy sludge or even worse the aluminum spider has got a fungal smelly jelly mould ( whether run on hard water soft water seems to make no odds – limescale is one thing ( due to the former ) and sloshy sludge is something else so you can get both together or just one – the sloshy sludge ). Of course, except for an indication under rear of the door seal where it mets the front of the drum, you`ll see nothing. Taking the machine to pieces ( if it can be because I have not checked ) could work out costly, cause more problems such as leaks on reassembly so you are really stuck with trying to do it chemically which may or may not work so as a suggestion, so long as you do not have soft water, you could try what I do with my 22 year old Hotpoint you get get 2 boxes of Aqua Softna pour one box in the drum and the other box in the main soap draw compartment. In that compartment you then pour in 3 CAP full of Flash lemon general purpose cleaner over the aqua crystals and having now closed the door preset the machine up for 60 to 90 degree wash programme press start and run like hell! Seriously, stick around because the machine might froth up badly and if it does just press pause for a few hours but as the machine gets hotter the foam should subside in anycase. When the machine gets up to temperature and is very hot it is a good idea to pause the machine for several hours and then let the machine carry on to the very end. Other than this, which might not work, this I think is your best shot other than the other suggestions already made elsewhere. You should be warned that at the age of your machine the drum bearing spider arms might be on their last legs in anycase meaning a hair line crack can occur ( causes a very loud knocking noise on spin if it happens ) whether you do nothing or the outlined suggestion in which case your machine will be toast based on the horrendous costs of repair i.e. hundreds perhaps inl labour over 400 quid if not much more I reckon – up to you to check that as you know Miele part prices are not for the faint hearted.
Yes very true the pcb`s have to be model and sometimes even model version specific so from my point of view the whole trade seems to have gone to pot ( though that is nothing new! ). Things have taken a dive with these two brands since they are now made in China ( PRC ) so perhaps a lot of info has been lost in translation ( best of luck to all involved sorting that one ). Still, they are not the only ones with suspect electronics of which Indesit was also/probably still is plaqued with premature duff electronic components. If it is any consolation one of the very last fairly newish 3 year Miele I went to, just before I retired, for a blocked up pump I thought I would have a nose around and have a visual look at the pcb just for interest, conclusion was it looked very similar to a Hoover /. Candy pcb in orther words the electronic components did not strike me with the highlights of top quality put it that way but I could of course be wrong on that one but I fear that I am probably spot on. Should think, as a rough guess, that pcb is probably over 250 quid a shot and if it is I would not be at all surprised.
As far as I can tell a fairly common fault on Hoover and Candy ( basically the same machines ) of the present / recent era. The other E08 motor related fault goes something as follows: initially machine will not fill with enough water, long died a death pauses. What really happens if you leave long enough on is: the machine fills half the amount on a wash programme then does nothing but if left the drum does go round. Trouble is notice it only ever goes around anti or clockwise and so not both and there is a long pause between what drum action you do get until the error code crops up. If you test only on the spin cycle it gives you the impression all is well where that is not the case which is where my initial testing went all wrong ! This caught me out until I cottoned on to what was really happening. The cure was a new pcboard something of a weak spot on these machines at the best of times for other faults ( though “other faults” does not mean it will always be the pcb that up the creek ), there were no bad soldering joints so I think one of the board relays was duff. The machine was a Candy version model GVS149D3-80 ( 31008281). PCB part number 49042859 – I remember having trouble also in tracking down the correct pcb and that is because the part number had changed apparently. Still all works now, part was fitted in early December last year, no-doubt I would have heard lots of yelling and tears by now if it did not do the trick..
Can`t really answer your question directly but I can agree with you. I can only argue/discuss from a repair angle. Yep, typical C21st ( and latter part of C20th was not much better either ). Of top notch premium products from my limited experience working on them over a 39 year waste of my time career though on the other hand it was geart fun. I do not have a lot of faith there either. Although hardly top top notch these days I always thought the Bosch /Neff /Siemens washing machine pump design was flawed bearing in mind the type of characters those machines are aimed at: managerial blokes who wear posh shirts with collar stiffners which inevitably are forgotten to be removed and end up half in the filter and half stuck in the pump entrance nozzle making unscrewing the filter impossible due to jamming which is very common and bloody annoying though profitable if you repair the wretched things! The whole design could have been so much better. And you could say that Hotpoint washing machine of a 1995 model 95 series with the inaccessable filter being at the rear of the machine is hardly consumer friendly because it certainly wasn`t and probably done on purpose too. As a now an ex service bod I look at things from a how easy is it to repair design and without wearing rose tinted glasses! And so to conclude. A lot of the 1970/80/to roughly 1995 washing machine products could be a pain in the arse to work on to be frank whereas the dishwashers could be pretty easy ( except Colston cylinder jet spay dishwashers of which most were late 1960`s – dreadful built-in contraptions for the middle to upper classes who could not bare sullying their donnies in water and so we`ll class it as top notch in its day ) whereas you could now say the situation is somewhat reversed and dishwashers are now a pain in the arse ( whilst washing machines are generally easier to fix ) than was the case before but that does not mean they are all cheap to fix, and the quality of the parts are highly suspect which is very true whether expensive or cheap to buy.
As a person who tries to buy nothing if I can at all avoid it, the only way to go is to buy nothing or at least the minimum you think you can get away with, especially these days, so the discussion has shifted to: do you buy cheap, simple stuff that is easy to fix if you have that repair mental bent or if it fails scrap the thing or do you buy expensive which will not be easy to fix or at least it will have very expensive parts in order to repair but even then that is not cast in stone: Indesit washing machines are cheap and simple BUT despite the 10 year free parts warranty you cannot buy a new pcboard without having it lap top programmed by an Indesit engineer or, in truth, a DIY is possible BUT you have to buy a programmer plug in device ( about 180 quid ) and a programmer card ( £22 ) plus the new pcb at £110 which means it`ll cost you more than the machine cost in the first place but then if you called out Indesit it for that fault it will work out part free labour about 115 quid or so – still annoying just less annoyingly expensive! This of course brings in Green Issues which every man and his dog, especially this trade plays on but it is all done in a cloak and dagger way and an example of that is: you buy your 750 quid machine ( more or less a top notch product least the brand is classed as such ) and it fails some way some how out of warranty and your total bill is £400 ( not unknown ) on a five year old machine…..so what are going to do because you are now trapped, or at least caught by the short ones: too expensive to repair ( and given the premature failure you ask yourself what`s going to be the next disaster? ) too young and expensive to wright it off and there is the dilemma – not a good position to find yourself in bathing burnt fingers in ice cold bucket of water!. Alternatively you bought cheap with no expectations having bought a Curry`s Logik made in China ( the slightly better ones are the ones made in Turkey but it depends upon which failure point ): it does the job, the speed wash button is a godsend otherwise the programme times will have you waiting until your pension date arrives providing the pension goal posts have not shifted but the bearing oil seal was not greased on assembly and so it suffered premature bearing failure. Unlike the £750 posh machine which has a sealed tank unit this Logik costing 200 quid has a tank you can take to bits and replace the bearings and a new oil seal for peanuts ( less than 20 quid so long as it was caught early on ) and you can do it yourself BUT say that your a typical nail bar visiting modern female with no tools no sense and no experience of ….well anything of any consquence except of course bitching and moaning about the easy life is lead on your wots app smart phone… you are now stuck and that machine is going to cost you over 100 quid to get repaired by “The shark**fish Repair Company” you are in a similar position although in way a slightly better position: so the question is would you rather have to scrap from 200 quid or 750 quid? The other conclusion is nothing is really a ” Green ” product at all whether any washing machine, dishwasher, petrol car, or electric car but a 50cc moped might be at 120 miles to the gallon it is just your life expectancy is probably not that long! ** no offense to sharks intended!To what was a 74 quid total Bosch retail insult I have to tell you 2 months ago I threw away a brand new wff instrument panel with soap draw front still in its box since that and half a van load of spares went to the recyclers because no one either knew these parts were up for grabs or as per last time I did this were the slightest bit interested. Seriously, sorry pal had I known!
Bearings shot in drum but no initital mention of the machine ever being noisy in original question…..so here`s a question to match a question, why the hell am I wasting my time?
But even buying a WAN model e.g. WAN28000GB/03 you still should know that the bearings ( officially ) and oil seal come as part of the rear half tank and that half tank section costs £170.14.Of course if you catch it early you can knock the offending bearings out but if left until bearings are in rusty shrapnel mode ( usual customer thing!! ) you`ve had it since the outer steel bearing race will not easily / is impossible to shift. The bearing related parts you can get separate is the oil seal @ about 14 quid and a new spider which comes with the drum at £169.36 as one unit and the tank seal. The point is at those prices they have you by the ” short ones ” ( and they know that! ) BUT it at least gives you a fighting chance if caught early on and the machine is therefore not thrashed and so trashed into oblivion.
There are about 8 types of aluminium alloys used in common engineering and some are better than others for different purposes ( hence 8 types of alloy ) as far as washing machines go it will not be one of the highest quality nor will they be coated with a protective paint but there again my Hotpoint WM series machine`s spider lasted 18 years and that replacement spider ( less bearings and oil seal ) cost, trade price, as a genuine** spare less than 30 quid at the time ( part number C00197587 ) that was duely replaced but not the bearings or the oil seal since they were both in good nick and so the oil seal was just regreased in situ…so still running on the original bearings and oil seal, machine now 22 years old. Why not change the bearings at the same time? The reason is, that sometimes when knocking out bearings the alloy tube they fit into can go the same way as the spider and be rotten especially around the oil seal area and you get a hair line fracture within the bearing tube due to knocking the bearings out which can go 2 bad ways 1) you will not see if it cracks but it will become a problem OR 2) it disintergrates into 2 pieces = you now have a definite problem that you did not have before so that is the reason why I did what I did all without the use of the useless crystal ball! Those who remember the Reliant Robin 3 wheeler steering box bolts will know all about rotten alloy threads. ** if you buy the pattern spider remenber to transfer the old C ring off the old shaft to the new often C ring less pattern spider otherwise the bronze hub ring becomes unglued from the shaft = back to square 1 within a month with duff bearings.One of the last sealed tanked Bosch ( or a Siemens ) that I had a callout to was about 4 years old owned by a couple with no kids so one would presume the machine was not overly hammered. The bearings had failed. Since the then cost they were not willing to pay for the repair and so I kindly got given the machine for spares. When, with time on my hands I dismantled the blighter and cut the plastic tank in half to remove the drum to have a look as to why the machine had failed, in my view, prematurely. The bottom line was next to zero grease on the oil seal which caused friction = the oil seals early demise = water = nuked drum bearings.
Other machines I have seen with the same problem at 3 years old are Indesits ( sealed tank ) and some curry`s Logiks ( not sealed tanks ). Machines where it seems less likely to happen appears to be Zanussi. This is all based on my one man band, which I freely admit is a more or less a hobby business these days so take that to mean a much lower number of machines encounted.What do the experts chose for their homes? Or do you get what you pay for? Well I will not have one in the house! But up to 2018 I used to repair the blighters ( 35+ years experience ) but no every make. Towards the end of my time, and tether, I ended repairing a lot of Bosch / Neff dishwashers which were toublesome – leaks, designed by a crazy sadist, and not that easy to work on with repeatingly failing parts somewhat like your Indesit experience but worse so I would avoid those. Miele I had very limited expeience of but what I can tell you is if they do fail be prepared to shell out loads of big spons to get it repaired – rip off spares prices!!. The least seen were 200 quid Curry`s Essentials of which some were Chinese made based on an older revamped Indesit model and some Kenwood models BUT they could have been under some extended warranty or they just got binned rather than repaired and so the reason few were actually seen = proves nothing.
Dishwashers I do not have much faith in! I do not think you always get what you pay for: it`ll be mostly down to pure luck as far as dishwashers go.
Dishwasher brands to keep clear of IMO( which could be misplaced ) are Hoover, Candy, Bosch&Co, Zanussi, AEG, Hotpoint, Indesit, Whirlpool seemed slightly better at the time, most of the Bekos, any brand you have never heard of – service and future spares?, Miele, does not leave much else do it? Other than Beko ( which have a reasonable spare parts set-up ) anything else made in Turkey might have problematic spares supply i.e. Vestel. Other imported stuff even under the same brand name might be Chinese so ditto there too on spare parts – parts can go obsolete quicker than any Tory U turn.
