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As suggested – very common that, remember that one, apt to happen again sometime!
As for fault codes might be listed in the washing machine error code chapter so have a look although the whole thing with Hotpoints is that it is confusing.If your model had a digital display the faault code that is equal to your fault of no pump out is usually F05.part number of dampers base on pnc 91458020400 ( or written /00 ) since you do not state the pnc / product code ( 5 versions of the same model!). Based on that, the AEG listed price is …………20 quid each, part number 1322553510 via AEG site. looks like someone is trying to fleece you ( obviously been on that business management course ! ) Turn power off remove the back panel. If you see any, usually, red deposites below the damper legs they`ll be shot. or failing that, work top off both hands press down on the tank hard and see if the tank bounces back up with very little or no resistance = the dampers are shot if they do. I think the replacement dampers have better felt.
How to change them. It possible to replace both dampers via the rear cover but it isn`t easy expecially the l/h/side one which is a sod to do. The less swearing method is to remove the front panel which I will not go into because it is drawn out affair to write – this second option is how usually do it. You remove the plastic damper pegs with a 13mm ring spanner to compress the locking tang and use a angled pair of pliers to lever the blighter out from the tank holes. It really boils down to which way the pins are fitted as to how easy it is gonna be. A bit of grease helps on rebuild.
p.s the part numbers are based on what model number you gave since you do not state the product / pnc code numbers
Well if the tap, i/inlet pipe and the inlet pipe washer gauzes are unblocked and so the H2O pressure is not an issue you have 4 things left a) the valve might be playing silly buggers and I have had them where the coils are fine but the valve solenoid concerned still only half works** or b) the white plastic pipe union – that is that detachable insert where the rubber hoses fit onto to the soap box is part blocked up or c) the soap box top is still blocked up near where the plastic pipe union is located or d) a combination of the above. **”the valves either work or they don`t” They cannot half work surely?…..Oh yes they can only half work, and especially with the valves Zanussi / AEG are using though it`s not an over common fault I`ll grant you but I have had that a few times. Valve part number is 1325188413 and if required that pipe union thingy is part 1249470053. I`ll probably be the valve that is duff !
Probably the board again: so long as the wiring loom is fine and the thermistor ( which seldom give trouble ) is ok and the heater is ok it should, from what you and how you have written your post, be the pcboard. Think you might be on the road to nowhere with this dishwasher that you can never trust again.
“Heard a faulty inlet valve can cause this , given one failed recently and flooded a kitchen recently im starting to think im cursed with dishwashers ;)”
Yep you probably are. so it`ll be you as only one more upon thousands in the same leaky boat. They are utter rubbish and severally over rated dishwashers though very popular. One of my customers had a similar model and she suggested I stayed at her place on a bed and breakfast basis due the number of times the pox ridden contraption went wrong . So when the last straw came she ditched it………………..and bought another Bosch. Yep, there`s no hope there!Despite the dryer heater actually is heating it could be going to earth when it gets hot in other words from when cold the element creeps up to earth as it gets hotter. Disconnect the heater wires and with a mega test meter test each heater terminal to its metal dryer conduit box ( or anyother earthing point )
Did you check for blockages at the end of the outlet drain hose and if applicable the under sink nozzle the pipe pushes on to. Other common problems is a blockage in the sump hose where the rubber hose connects to the tank. If you see a ping pong ball in that hose make sure it is not gummed up so the white ball can float. If you live in a hard water area very common that the drain hose get part blocked-up with lime. Possible faulty pump too. Even possible it could even be something totally non pump related e.g. wash heater playing sillies, perhaps to earth open circuit or both and a load of other possibilities.
So if set, with machine empty, onto spin only it will not start and makes a door clicking noise or some other component clicking noise? But whatever makes the noise the door remains locked(?) or unlocked(?). Sounds like an inverter pcb problem to me. The inverter board do fail. If you remove the rear back cover having turned the machine off/pulled the plug out. The inverter pcb is the one on the r/h/s between the 2 shocks/dampers. The large capacitor sometimes blow up or and the boards tracks. Might be totally wrong but if sadly right the part number is 11032419 ( the price is depressing at £170.14!! ) Yes I know its a rip off!
” dry fine until it finishes and the clothes come out wetter than when I put them to dry” So presume clothes are steamy hot so that at least proves that the dryer heater works. So that leaves other options 1) the condenser is blocked up 2) the fan blades are blocked 3) there is a fault with the dryer solenoid letting too much water through OR 4) the dryer valve is not letting any or very little water through to condense the steam which is a lot more common. 5) problem with a pcboard triggering the valve to often = excess water – never had that one but with Hoover / Candy pcb any disaster could happen!
“However, where I work, we have extensive training kitchens and I can’t help but admire the fantastic cookers we have there. New, they are a bit out of my price range”
Well what is that make as the suspense is driving me wild with anticipationDifficult to find info on Umelone spin dryers but they flog them via Amazon 6kg at £242 gravity drain and looks very much like one of the last produced Credas. At a guess via the way blurb been translated into English I`d say made in China or India. There is another brand called YXCKG of which I recognize the plastic body as being Chinese on sale ( basically half a twin tub ) at the supreme rip off price @ £616. I do admire a good sense of humour!
I think you are missing a bit! There should be an INTERNALhard plasic tube that goes front to back within the machine so from the bottom of the front filter unit to the round hole as looking from the rear bottom r/h/side where the white vent hose fits into.The part number is C00095624 also known as J00114648.
Blimey. The first question to have ask would`ve been “has this happened only once and was it therefore just this particular load and so what was the load?” Could have been something as simple as an out of balanced load. No one asked that question and he/she never said anything to the contrary and so now we will never know 10 years on.
Well I think I hold the record for failure of a Bosch/Neff/Siemens heat pump replacement and that is under 3 minutes after it filled and the soap disp opened ( was tested on quick wash or in this case: Quick Fail! ). Of course it was a built-in contraption, actually it was a badly built-in affair to make matters even worse..Usual lash-up…by God I was fuming! Was the last heat pump I ever changed too. So the point is could just have failed (E09 ) which would not surprise me in the least, think I had a good 5 before this particular d/washer that took out the heater again which is why I gave up on them. To my mind there is a basic design flaw with them, that and the common e15 flooded underbase = drain pump on forever with door closed or even open. This happens very commonly with the s/steel tank set into plastic base as the plastic warps especially r/h/side and at the rear and over a short period of time the water builds up as the usually small leak fills up the underbase to trip the emergency float switch which switches on the drain pump.
Horrible pieces of engineering..
